Curator’s statement
Away from the resort towns on the coasts and almost completely devoid of chains, Oaxaca is the perfect taste of authentic Mexico. It’s the perfect destination for foodies. Many argue that Oaxaca has the best food in Mexico and many up-and-coming chefs get started in Oaxaca. Even better, dining and food experiences are easy on the wallet in Oaxaca, especially in comparison to other foodie destinations throughout the world! Excellent street food, taco joints and food markets offer delicious food on the cheap and even fine dining tasting menus are reasonably priced. When you need a break from eating, the amount of cultural immersion activities you can experience will keep you busy until your next meal. Make sure to bring your walking shoes. You’ll be walking all over, partially because it’s the easiest way to get around but also because it will help you work up an appetite for all the delicious food you’ll be eating while in Oaxaca!
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Day 1: Arrival and Spa
Arrive at the airport and meet your private transfer after baggage claim. Drive to your hotel and check-in.
Spend your afternoon recovering from your travel by relaxing at your hotel’s pool. For an ultra relaxing experience, visit Otro’s ultra-unique subterranean spa, modeled after the cenotes of Mexico. The underground pool will make for a gorgeous photo opp and you can spend the afternoon relaxing with massages and body treatments or enjoying the steam room and cold bathtub.
After you have thoroughly relaxed, visit the open-air restaurant on the rooftop. Sit at the long communal table where you can watch the chefs cook on an open grill. Here you can taste modern Oaxacan cuisine while enjoying views of the beautiful Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmán.
Day 2: Food Exploration
After breakfast at your hotel, put on your sneakers for a walking tour of Oaxaca. This introductory tour will take you through the charming historic center of Oaxaca with an expert guide. You’ll first visit the Zocalo, the main square, to learn about the city’s colonial history and explore the historic cathedral.
Next, you’ll visit the Mercado 20 de Noviembre craft market to meet some of the city's food producers. Here, you can taste and purchase lots of local specialties that are hard to find elsewhere - from chocolate to local coffee to mole. If you are brave, you can even try chapulines (grasshoppers)!
Pro tip: Ask your guide to point you to the amazing tamales at the stand in the back of the market.
Next, you’ll head to the Santo Domingo Square, home to the Santo Domingo de Guzmán church, an architectural masterpiece that showcases baroque design and an impressive collection of pre-Columbian art and artifacts. Your guide will provide insight into the Zapotec and Mixtec civilizations that previously lived in this region before sending you on your way with plenty of recommendations for other great spots to visit in the city.
Depending on your endpoint, wander through the Andador Turístico to see lots of colors, perfect for photographs. If you are an art fan, you can also pop into the Contemporary Art Museum of Oaxaca. Keep heading North until you arrive at Tacos El Carmen. There is pretty much always a line at this food stand, especially after it was featured in Somebody Feed Phil (on Netflix). Get some of the delicious tacos and empanadas.
If it’s still in stock, the flor de calabaza (squash blossom) is my personal favorite.
Thirsty? Directly across the street (crossing C. de Manuel Garcia Vigil, towards the credit union), there is unmarked agua fresca stand that is one of the best in the city. The agua frescas are all made with filtered water (as is the ice) so you can safely sample the varying flavors, which change everyday!
Ready for dessert? Head another block North to La Cosecha Organic Market. This outdoor marketplace has lots of fun booths for you to visit. One of my favorites, Pulque & Nieves, serves delicious dessert, the orange sorbet is ultra refreshing under the very strong sun in Oaxaca. This market is also the perfect place to pick up food souvenirs, such as white or red mole, Pluma Hidalgo coffee and local spices. Once you’ve loaded up on goodies, head back to your hotel to relax, perhaps enjoying a dip in the pool to cool down during the afternoon heat.
When you are ready, head to Levadura de Olla Restaurante to try some local specialties, where the female chef is known to revive Oaxacan recipes lost to time. I still think about how amazing the guava mole was that we tried here. Even though it sounds simple, their plate of local tomatoes is one of their most popular dishes and outstanding. You also must try the fantastic tamales!
After dinner, head to Oaxaca Brewing Co. to try some local beers.
Day 3: Adventure, History, Culinary
This morning, you will be up early for an early pickup at your hotel by your private driver. After an hour and a half drive, you will arrive at Hierve el Agua. A geological phenomenon, Hierve el Agua is a petrified waterfall formed from hot springs sitting on top of rock formations that form natural pools with epic views over the valley below. You will arrive in the early morning to beat the majority of the crowds. You will start with an early morning hike to enjoy the beautiful views of the sun rising over the water and across the valley. You can even take a quick dip in the pools, so make sure to pack a swimsuit and towel.
Next, you will continue on to visit Yagul. Yagul is an archaeological site from the Zapotec civilization of pre-Columbian Mesoamerica, which became an extremely important piece of history as the caves at this site were where the remnants of corn (maize) were carbondated to over 8,000 years ago. If you have a strong interest in history, your travel advisor can request permission from the archaeological society for you to see the cave paintings (not open to the public). As you continue on your day-trip, you will enter Teotitlan del Valle, a town known for its Zapotec fabric weavers. You will have the chance to observe the weavers, learn about their craft and share a traditional lunchtime meal in a family’s home. You can also purchase some of the family’s handcrafted textiles if you would like.
On your drive back to Oaxaca, stop at Árbol del Tule, a giant Cypress tree that is over 2000 years old and has a self-contained ecosystem. This tree was on the UNESCO World Heritage list from 2001 - 2013. After you are finished seeing the beauty of the valley, you will be dropped off at your hotel by your driver.
After taking some time to relax at your hotel room, walk to dinner at El Destilado. El Destilado creates innovative and modern dishes featuring local Oaxacan ingredients. There are three menus to choose from: a 6-course meal, a 9-course menu, and a 12-course “Chef’s Menu” for the most adventurous of food lovers. If 6 courses is too much for you, head up to the rooftop terrace instead, which serves tacos, tostadas, mezcal, and craft beer. If you are at this restaurant on a Friday, Saturday, or Sunday night, you will likely see the wedding parades come through as this restaurant is on the parade route!
If you still have energy after dinner, head to El Espacio Cocktail Bar for a nightcap. This bar is a favorite of both tourists and locals with an impressive selection of cocktails. You are also welcome to order a custom cocktail off the menu to really see the bartenders’ skills.
Day 4: Archaeology, Artisanry, Gastronomy
After breakfast this morning, get ready for another early morning pick-up directly at your hotel. Your first stop is Monte Alban, this historic Zapotec metropolis was created in the sixth century BC and served as their capital between 500 BC and 800 AD. By arriving early in the morning, you will avoid the majority of the crowds, as well as the very strong midday heat. Your private guide will teach you about the Zapotecs, how they lived their lives, and the influence their culture had on the region. You will get some excellent photos at this beautiful site but be ready to climb stairs up and down to access all of the ruins.
Next, you will visit the town of Atzompa to learn about their traditional pottery. Stopping into an artist’s studio, you will get to learn about the traditional techniques they use to make their creations and how they incorporate symbols from ancient cultures. There are also some lesser known ruins in this area that you can visit and may possibly be the only tourist there!
Next, you will stop for lunch where you can enjoy a traditional Mixtec meal made with all local Oaxacan ingredients. On your way back to the city, you will make a last stop at the Museum of Santo Domingo, which is located within a monastery. Here you can see some items that represent the culture that you learned about today and even some items from the tombs at Monte Alban! After you are done visiting the museum, your driver will drop you off back at your hotel.
Tonight, dine at a hidden gem of Oaxaca - Teocintle-Tika'aya. This up and coming chef doesn’t have a website and manages reservations through his Facebook page but his amazing food is absolutely worth a visit. This tiny five table restaurant offers a five course dining menu utilizing indigenous ingredients that is beautifully presented and changes daily. This was our whole group’s favorite meal of the trip. Pro Tip: Come prepared with Google Translate as the menu is in Spanish and the staff speaks Spanish only as well. Note that the restaurant is cash only.
Day 5: Artistry, Mezcal, Fusion
Today, you will dive even further into Oaxacan culture by meeting creators! You will start with another hotel pickup, where you will be driven to your first stop, an Alebrijes pottery studio that inspired the Disney movie "Coco." You will first get to observe and learn about every step required for the production of artisan pottery, from sourcing the raw materials for the dyes to the techniques used to paint the final design on the pottery. Next, you will enjoy a lunch with Oaxacan specialties (like mole and memelas), served in a beautiful hilltop spot. Once you are sufficiently full, you will head to a Mezcal distillery. This sustainable and organic distillery effortlessly blends ancient traditions and modern techniques. Your guide will show you the agave hearts, known as "piñas," which are slow-roasted in underground pits, fermented and distilled resulting in a unique spirit that has been growing in popularity in recent years. Once you are done learning about (and tasting) mezcal, you’ll be driven back to your hotel.
Tonight, you’ll head out for a unique dining experience at CRUDO. CRUDO focuses on using Japanese techniques with local Oaxacan ingredients. The result is truly special! Located in a former house in the center of Oaxaca, this restaurant is tiny and only seats a handful of diners. The seafood and vegetable focused menu will be served via tasting menu. Sake and non-alcoholic beverage pairings are also available. If you are interested in a nightcap after you are finished, head to Sur a Norte for a cocktail or to try some Mexican wine. After you are done for the night, head to bed to prepare for your flight home in the morning.
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