Thailand Unfiltered: Scooters, Sunsets and a Family Reunion

I land as scheduled at 6:30 am in Bangkok and take a taxi to my little oasis — Pranakorn Nornlen, a charming boutique hotel with 31 colorful, uniquely designed rooms and a lush garden, tucked away in a residential area in the north of Bangkok.

After my first coffee, I decide to ease into the city rather than dive straight into the chaos. Instead, I book myself a massage and head to an onsen — the Japanese term for a hot spring, a thermal bath enriched with valuable minerals that the body absorbs through the water. Each spring has its own unique composition of minerals, from calcium and iron to magnesium and zinc. There are four pools, each meant to be used in a specific sequence. Since I’m a first-timer, they recommend a one-hour session.

I immerse myself in the tranquil, minimalist Japanese atmosphere, a peaceful retreat right in the heart of Bangkok.

The massage afterward is labeled "medium", but it turns out to be intense yet deeply beneficial — with some bruises as a souvenir the next day 🤣. After a soothing green tea, I head back to my oasis. Thanks to the Grab app, the ride is convenient, though evening traffic stretches the journey to about 40 minutes.

As night falls, I explore my neighborhood, Banglamphu — a place where tourists are few and far between. Here, you get a real glimpse of everyday Thai life. I find it both fascinating and heartwarming to see locals eating throughout the day — grabbing meals in plastic bags from street vendors, gathering in small groups, and "picnicking" wherever they please. Equally remarkable is their gentle and grateful attitude toward life.

Eventually, I stumble upon a cult-favorite riverside restaurant called Steve Café & Cuisine, where I enjoy an incredible meal while watching the Chao Phraya River — Bangkok’s lifeline — gently flow past.

I take a slow walk back through hidden alleys, soaking in the energy of the city before finally calling it a night.

If you’re arriving in Bangkok, here’s what I highly recommend for your first day:

- Relax at an onsen: Yunomori Onsen
- Enjoy dinner by the Chao Phraya River.

A slow morning and a river adventure

I’m taking things a bit slower today. The jet lag is still lingering, so I sip my coffee in peace in our cozy little courtyard and take some time to write in my journal.

Afterward, I head to the pier to catch a water taxi to the Wats, but on a whim, I decide to take a longtail boat tour along the Chao Phraya River instead. Ah yes, the river — the muddy old river — a brown, murky waterway where you definitely wouldn’t want to fall in.

Marketed as a floating market tour through the side canals, it turns out to be a total flop. Apart from a 30-minute stop at a so-called floating market, where overpriced souvenirs are the main attraction, there’s really not much to see. The longest part of the trip is spent waiting in a lock, watching other equally bored tourists in their life jackets, all probably thinking the same thing:
What are we even doing here? 😂

We’re finally dropped off at Wat Pho Temple, where I spend the next three hours.

Cultural immersion at Wat Pho

About 95% of Thais are Buddhist, but before Buddhism arrived, they believed in deities and spirits. That’s why you’ll find colorful shrines and Buddha statues on every corner in Bangkok. A Buddha — whether placed in front of a house or worn around the neck — is believed to ward off bad luck.

The most famous statue in Bangkok, the gigantic reclining Buddha, can be admired here at Wat Pho. The temple grounds are vast, and as expected, I absolutely love places like this. Despite the crowds, it feels calm and meditative to me.

Street markets & rooftop views

The market stalls outside the temple are wild — colorful, loud and chaotic. There’s literally nothing you can’t find here! I try seaweed (delicious!), but I can’t bring myself to taste the grilled scorpions 😜.

As the sun sets, I head to a rooftop bar with a breathtaking view of Wat Arun. I sip on a beer and take in the golden glow of the temple reflecting on the river.

For those looking for the perfect sunset spot, I highly recommend Sala Rattanakosin This stylish rooftop bar and restaurant offers incredible views of Wat Arun, making it an ideal place for a sunset cocktail or even an overnight stay.

For an authentic and award-winning Thai dining experience, I recommend Supanniga Eating Room. With full views of Wat Arun, this restaurant serves exceptional Thai cuisine and was awarded L’Assiette Michelin in 2018.

An easy ride home

After dinner, I order a Grab scooter and I’m impressed — as soon as I pay, the driver is already waiting outside!

Back in the courtyard, I have a quick call with Anouk, then head to bed — happy, content and already excited for what’s next 😎.

A day of culture, food and magic in Bangkok

After breakfast, I hop on a scooter and head to the Grand Palace.
Built in 1782, this architectural masterpiece embodies the soul and history of Thailand. For centuries, it served as the royal residence, and to this day, it remains one of the most sacred sites in the country. The Emerald Buddha, Thailand’s most revered religious artifact, is housed in its main temple.

I was last here 30 years ago and debated whether I should revisit the temples at all. But as soon as I step inside, I know I made the right decision — the place is just as stunning and overwhelmingly beautiful as I remember.

A culinary adventure at Jay Fai’s

I spend the afternoon exploring on foot, first wandering through the flower market, then making my way to an icon of Bangkok’s street food scene — the legendary Jay Fai.

If you want to eat here, you have to wait in line. At 77 years old, this remarkable woman still runs her tiny street food restaurant, which was awarded a Michelin star in 2017!

I decide to put in the effort and wait my turn. Finally, I squeeze into a tiny plastic chair, surrounded by green bathroom tiles and take my first bite of her famous crab omelet.

Absolutely worth every minute — delicious beyond words! 😋

Her look is iconic: an army t-shirt, wool beanie and diving goggles — her way of protecting herself from the flying sparks of the open flames. 🔥

Sunset at Wat Arun

Feeling completely satisfied, I head to the Chao Phraya River and take a ferry across to Wat Arun, named after Arun, the Indian god of dawn.

No matter how many times I visit, I can’t get enough of this temple — especially at sunset, with a whiskey sour in hand. The view is simply magical! 🌅

A fiery dinner in Banglamphu

For dinner, I return to my neighborhood, Banglamphu, and discover an incredible, super spicy mussel dish at a small street corner eatery — an absolute flavor explosion! 🔥

Back at the courtyard, I have another perfectly timed call with Anouk, wrapping up an unforgettable day.

Must-try food spots in Bangkok:

For an unforgettable crab omelet experience (no reservations, long wait, but absolutely worth it):
Jay Fai – 327 Maha Chai Rd, 10200 Bangkok

For the best local flavors in Banglamphu:
Chiewchan Panich, 76 Krung Kasem Rd

One last dive into the madness – my final day in Bangkok.

On my last day in Bangkok, I decide to throw myself into the chaos one more time. Right outside my hotel, I spontaneously hop into a tuk-tuk and head to Chinatown. I originally planned to visit in the evening — which I end up doing anyway!

It’s hot, crowded, colorful... and overflowing with plastic. You really have to experience it to understand it — it’s hard to put into words. But once you step away from the main streets, you start to feel the authenticity again. Everywhere you look, people are carrying heavy loads, cooking, setting up and tearing down stalls — life here happens right on the streets.

I take a break in a small shop, order a cold beer and watch as the first tourists start to trickle in.

Afterward, I take a Grab scooter to downtown Bangkok, without really knowing what to expect. Hardly anyone speaks English here and Chinatown isn’t well-marked. Just to be safe, I screenshot the street where I spotted some nice street food stalls, in case I decide to come back later.

By now, one thing is clear — Bangkok is massive.

Rooftop drinks with a view

I decide to visit Octave, the rooftop bar at the Marriott Hotel, and book a table (which is mandatory). There’s also a dress code, but I take my chances — unstyled, slightly disheveled and definitely not fashionably dressed, I hop on a 40-minute scooter ride through Bangkok’s rush hour.

Anyone who has been to Asia knows what traffic is like here — you can imagine the chaos. So, I just close my eyes and go with it. But honestly, I also find it pretty thrilling — by car, this ride would have taken twice as long.

The rooftop views are spectacular, but somehow, the atmosphere doesn’t quite click for me. I had originally planned to stay for dinner, but instead, I head back to Chinatown by scooter, ready for round two.

Late-night street food in Chinatown

Navigating back isn’t as easy as expected. Despite showing the driver the Thai name for Chinatown, he still doesn’t seem to understand and heads in the wrong direction. I must have looked ridiculous, wildly gesturing with my hands and feet, completely lost in an industrial zone. Frustrating, to say the least.

But in the end, I finally make it — 45 minutes later than planned.

Was it worth it? Absolutely.

I wanted the full experience — standing in line, eating from plastic plates and enjoying simple, authentic Thai food under bathroom tiles — just like the locals.

It’s chaotic, overwhelming and completely fascinating to be part of this scene. But after all this? No more scooters for me tonight — I take a tuk-tuk back and officially end my four days in Bangkok.

Where to eat & drink in Bangkok

Must-try street food in Chinatown:
Guay Jub Quan Pochana – 408 Yaowarat Rd, Khwaeng Charkkrawat

Best rooftop experience:
Octave

Final thoughts on Bangkok

I truly loved Bangkok, but what I enjoyed most was simply going with the flow. I’m usually very planned and organized, so this trip was a new experience and a valuable lesson for me.

I made spur-of-the-moment decisions, and in Bangkok, you don’t need a restaurant guide — there’s amazing food on every corner.

I witnessed one of the most beautiful sunsets of my life in front of Wat Arun, and had an unforgettable onsen experience.

The people, the culture — it’s absolutely breathtaking. 😍

But now… I’m ready for Koh Phangan!

I’ve been at The Sanctuary in Koh Phangan for a few days now, and it truly feels like paradise. I have the beachfront hut of my dreams, where I fall asleep to the gentle rhythm of the ocean and wake up to golden sunrises over the water.

Here, I can swim whenever I want, and the options for yoga, meditation and workshops seem endless. At first, the sheer variety is almost overwhelming— especially when simply lounging on the beach is so tempting. But after a few days, I find the perfect rhythm:

☀️ First, sunscreen 😜
🏊‍♀️ Morning swim in the crystal-clear water
🧘‍♀️ Yoga session, followed by a delicious brunch
🌴 Relaxing on the beach with a book
💆‍♀️ Afternoon massage to unwind
🧘‍♂️ 5 pm Yin Yoga as the sun begins to set
🌙 Gong bath and cacao ceremony at a secluded cove

The area consists of three interconnected bays, each coordinating their party schedules. Since they’re only accessible by taxi boat, the experience feels even more exclusive — like our own hidden world.

Here, you can fast, detox or party until sunrise — whatever suits your mood. And if things get too loud? Just grab the earplugs provided in every hut and drift off to sleep.

Sounds crazy? It is. And I love it.

So much so that I’ll definitely be back.

Of course, the biggest highlight of my stay was finally hugging my Cosi again after five months apart ❤️❤️

Cosi and Lela (her friend who travels with her ) are staying in the dorm, and from now on, we’ll be spending the next two weeks together — creating more unforgettable memories in this magical place.

On Saturday at 11 am, we hop on a taxi boat back to civilization. Sanctuary, I’ll be back!

We book three more days at a hostel in Koh Phangan, though finding accommodation proves to be quite a challenge for the next few days.

The following day is all about exploring, indulging in brunch and treating ourselves to a pedicure — pure bliss! 🥂🍾

While our hostel’s location is beautiful, the nights are another story. Our dorm-mates are far from considerate — it’s loud, stuffy and completely windowless 😳. But I quickly adapt, and honestly, we laugh so much about the whole experience. 🤣

The next day, we rent a scooter, visit different yoga retreat centers and occasionally bump into familiar faces from the girls' earlier travels.

Changing plans & a surprise reunion

Our original plan was to head to Koh Tao to meet Anouk, but with everything fully booked, we decide to leave a day early and go to Koh Samui instead.

Even in Koh Samui, finding a place to stay isn’t easy, and we only manage to book one night. But at least it means we get to surprise Anouk at the airport!

After two layovers and long delays, she finally arrives, and when we see her, we hug tightly, feeling nothing but gratitude and joy. ❤️

Must-try places in Koh Phangan:

Best places to eat:
Nymph Hideout – Amazing breakfast & beautiful bungalows for rent
Orion Healing – Relaxing spot for breakfast or lunch
Alcove Phangan – The perfect beachfront dinner spot with nightly fire shows

🧘‍♀️ Best Yoga Retreats:
The Sanctuary Thailand – My magical home for nine nights
Orion Healing – A peaceful wellness retreat
Pyramid Yoga – Deepen your practice in nature
Yoga House Phangan – A welcoming space for all levels

Exploring Koh Samui & into the heart of the jungle

Anouk has arrived, and we’re beyond happy to have a room for four, complete with our own bathroom and a hot shower — even if it’s just for one night.

Luckily, we manage to extend our stay at the same hotel and move into a triple room for two more night — which feels like pure luxury after all the dorms and tents! The hotel itself is simple but well-located, and for the next two evenings, we enjoy delicious meals at its cozy restaurant.

During the day, we rent two scooters and set out to explore Koh Samui, despite the rainy weather. We find a warm, inviting café, sip on matcha 🍵 and chat for hours — the perfect kind of day.

That evening, we watch a fire show — not exactly our favorite form of entertainment, but at least the food is amazing!

A last-minute adventure to Khao Sok

On Thursday, we decide to take the ferry and bus inland to Khao Sok National Park. This wasn’t originally part of my itinerary, so I’m excited for the unexpected detour. Instead of flying back from Koh Samui, I’ll now be returning from Phuket via Bangkok.

At first, we can only find a tent for one night, but as always, it pays to ask around. Once again, we get lucky — we manage to extend our stay and even secure a floating bungalow for Saturday night!

Camping in the middle of the jungle 🏕️ is absolutely magical. After six hours of travel, we finally arrive in the early evening — just in time for a well-deserved can of beer! 🍻

Our tent is a bit short, and the mattress is hard, but aside from that, I’m loving every moment of being completely immersed in nature. 😎

We take it slow, spend a relaxed day by the river and I use the quiet moments to write in my journal and reflect.

Must-try spots in Koh Samui
Where to eat:
Vikasa – A perfect place for lunch, dinner, and yoga with a view
Kirati Samui – So good, we ate here three times!

Saturday – Off to Khao Sok National Park!

Today, we embark on an exciting journey into Khao Sok National Park, traveling by longtail boat across the stunning Cheow Lan Lake. Spanning 185 square kilometers, this artificial reservoir, created in 1987 by the construction of the Cheow Lan Dam, is a mesmerizing sight. The water glows in shades of turquoise, mirroring the sky, while dramatic limestone cliffs rise from the depths, their rugged surfaces softened by dense jungle vegetation.

One of the lake’s most famous landmarks is Khao Sam Kloe, a trio of towering limestone karsts that seem to float above the water. Their sheer scale is humbling, making our boat feel minuscule in comparison. The base of these cliffs is stark and rocky, but higher up, thick green foliage clings to the stone, creating a striking contrast.

In the afternoon, we settle into our floating bungalows, where we take a refreshing swim before heading to a nearby waterfall. The experience, though thrilling, feels a bit commercialized, as we share the adventure with dozens of other visitors. Around 80 people arrive each day, spending just one night before moving on. Still, the park’s raw beauty makes it well worth the trip, and I’d return in a heartbeat.

As night falls, we enjoy a delicious meal of freshly caught fish 🎣 before collapsing onto our thin mattresses for an early night. Exhausted from the day’s activities, Anouk and I even skip our usual True Crime podcast — our fun little tradition from the past two nights in the tent! ⛺️

Sunday – Jungle adventures & a perfect farewell

At 6:30 am, we wake up for an early morning adventure — exploring a cave and spotting wildlife along the way. Monkeys swing through the trees, and we’re lucky enough to see a bison 🦬, though sadly, no elephants.

Back at the bungalows, we enjoy a simple but delicious breakfast — pancakes! Soon after, we take a boat ride back to the mainland, excited to return to our tent by the peaceful river.

Here, surrounded by absolute silence, I sit and watch the monkeys play, soaking in the calm of the jungle. I know this is a place I want to come back to. The sounds of nature feel soothing, and I want to hold onto this moment forever.

Our last evening is spent sharing another amazing curry, followed by one final True Crime story in the tent — our perfect little nighttime ritual.

Where to stay in Khao Sok:

🏕 Khao Sok Monkeys & River Camps – A hidden gem by the river, offering a peaceful escape and tours into the national park.

A Journey filled with everything

This trip has been the perfect blend of adventure, relaxation and surprises:

🏍 Zipping through Bangkok’s chaotic streets on a scooter — exploring a megacity bursting with energy!🌴 Reuniting with Cosi after five months apart on the legendary hippie island of Koh Phangan. 🧘‍♀️ Living in a remote yoga retreat, where days were filled with yoga, massages, sound healing and cacao ceremonies. 🛵 Exploring by scooter, getting pedicures, indulging in incredible food, and, of course, wild hostel nights 🤣. 💖 The biggest surprise of all — picking up Anouk at Koh Samui Airport without her knowing! 🚤 Traveling deep into mainland Thailand, leading us to floating bungalows, jungle tents and breathtaking nature.

The four of us shared so many incredible moments, and I feel immensely grateful for this time with such wonderful people.

This trip was everything. ❤️❤️❤️🥂