Curator’s statement
Positioned along the Mekong River, Bueng Kan is almost as far north as you can get in the Isaan region of Thailand before reaching the Laos border. You will not find many tourists here, and you may encounter some language barriers to get from point A to B, so come prepared and ready for a challenge! This region nevertheless, has jaw-dropping views from atop Wat Phu Tok, and the "Three Whale Rock." If you're looking for an alternative from the mainstream travel, hop on the northbound bus (3.45hr) to get a taste of authentic Thailand.
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Things to do in Bueng Kan
Wat Phu Tok
This standalone masterpiece is a 360-meter-tall burnt orange sandstone massif, which towers over the countryside. It offers 360-degree views from different walkways and cave shrines, which are tucked into vertical cliffs. With over five decades of continued maintenance from monks and locals, these narrow planks stand the test of time. Don't let the steep entrance stairs turn you away! Take your time appreciating the intricate work laid before you, and slowly work your way up each of the seven levels (representing the Seven Factors of Enlightenment from Buddhist teachings) to find your favorite viewpoint.
Three Whale Rock (Hin Sam Wan)
This eye-catching sandstone formation has gained popularity and is now an iconic spot in the Isaan region. Visitors can explore on-foot for more than 100 meters and on a clear day, even the hills of Laos are visible! There is no entrance fee for the park, but expect to hire a driver and guide to give you a more structured, two-hour tour up this rugged terrain.
*Wat Phu Tok and Three Whale Rock are within 40 minutes of each other, and can be visited on the same day.
*With all the effort it takes to get out here, I HIGHLY recommend spending the night in Bueng Kan. I made a mistake by making this a day trip and spending more time in transport than actually enjoying all that this region has to offer.
Here are a few more options to take you further and make the most of this trek:
Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary
Situated about thirty minutes from Three Whale Rock along the Mekong River, this region is home to elephants, a rare chameleon, camping, and waterfall hiking. The most sought after waterfall is Nam Tok Chet Si, or "Seven Color Waterfall," for its rainbow effect of the sun shining through the cascading water. The shared boat to the falls is a mere $1 to get upstream and visitors may swim if the current isn't too strong.
*Other notable waterfalls to explore with an experienced guide include:
- Tham Fun
- Tham Phra
- Chanaen
Phu Langka National Park
About fifty km south of Phu Wua, is the mysterious Naga Cave. Since there is no public transport to take you there directly, buses will drop you off in Bung Khla to begin your tour.
I did not get to visit this park on my trip, but there is reportedly an experienced guide named Mr. Bunloed, who leads these tours and will guide you up a multi-hour, steep, mountain slope to a rock formation that resembles a coiled-up serpent.
*Overall, I would say I enjoyed this trip for what it was, but if you only have a couple weeks in Thailand, I would spend your "off-the-beaten-path" excursion in Nan or Phu Kradueng National Park. I lived in the Isaan region of Thailand for a year, so this made sense for me. If you're unsure if this makes sense for your travels, message me and let's get in touch to find you the ideal spot for adventure!
Places to eat & drink in Bueng Kan
Since my time here was short, I cannot speak to the various food stalls and restaurants of the region, but the Bung Khla district is a central place to start if you're looking for traditional Thai cuisine at pop-up night markets, or a café to relax in for the rest of the day. The locals will be able to guide you to the best spots in town, so be sure to ask around if you're struggling to find any on your own. Personally, I like walking to get lost in a town like this, because it may just lead you to some hidden gems you never would have come across on Google Maps.
Need to know
Since transportation is very limited, and motorbike rental shops are not in the region, I highly recommend hiring a driver for the day to bring you to these sites. We paid about 1,000 baht ($28) for pickup from the bus station to be driven around for the day.
Also, don't forget to bring a portable charger! There are not many opportunities to plug in since the food stalls and shops are rustic and simple entities.
If you choose to stay the night, be prepared for a humble stay. Luxury and Bueng Kan do not mix! There are various home stays in the Bung Khla region that are most desirable for being situated right on the Mekong River, and near the action of tomorrow's activities.
Travel Advisor
Isabel Smallman
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Thailand. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my guide, Ayutthaya: The Ancient Capital of Thailand.