Adventures in Longyearbyen: 3 Days at the Top of the World

After arriving at the airport, hop onto one of the buses waiting outside. The driver will charge you for the ride via tap-to-pay, and ask which hotel you’re going to.

Check into the modern, convenient Radisson Blu Polar Hotel (which has two buildings), and stroll around town.

Though surrounded by ocean and mountains, Longyearbyen is not the most visually appealing in May. Long pipes snake among barren rock and slush, dominating the quirky stilted housing. Underground pipelines would be thrust upward and ruined due to the thick permafrost, which is also why you can't be buried in Longyearbyen.

But the shops are great: check out winter garb and souvenirs, and then sample polar bear-shaped chocolates at Fruene, the most northern chocolate shop in the world. Keep an eye out for your first reindeer: the local breeds are smaller and stockier than you're expecting.

Dine at the Radisson's Nansen, with gorgeous views through huge windows. The fish of the day is excellent, and maybe you're ready to try the reindeer steak.

Be prepared for your first evening trying to sleep in the midnight sun over the polar summer. Eyeshades are essential!

Get ready for a full day of Green Dog dog sledding to an ice cave!

After you arrive at the kennels, it'll take a while to get your gear and prepare the dogs: six to a sled with two guests each. So wander around and meet some of the many cute, yapping huskies with names like Rubble, Everest and Phantom — but be aware they like to nibble.

One person will drive while the other sits in the sled. As a musher-in-training, your job is primarily slowing or stopping the dogs by stepping hard on the brake. They will follow the guide team so you don't have to worry about steering.

Be prepared for an exhilarating ride, jouncing along on snow and ice and hills. The dogs will bark happily and barely pause to poop and pee. They did not like it when we braked!

About an hour later, you'll arrive at the ice cave. After the dogs are unhooked and fed, you'll take a modest refreshment break in a small tent and use the bathroom tent (with a real toilet seat) if needed. Then you'll put on helmets with lights to go into the small, dark, tight ice cave, which is constantly changing with weather conditions.

Once you retrace your mushing back to the kennel, you may get to meet some baby huskies!

Tonight, celebrate at Funken (which is a 30-minute walk uphill to the other end of town). Portions are small and pricey but delicious, especially the king crab, and king crab and lobster ravioli in a bisque.

Pace yourself today as your Midnight Sun snowmobiling doesn't start until 9 pm.

Check out the North Pole Museum and learn of the many failed attempts to get there. Stroll the side streets, scouting for bathing snow buntings and mating barnacle geese. You can walk to the bear sign at the edge of town. From here, you must have a gun or guide to go further.

Have an early dinner at Vinterhagen at Mary-Ann’s (the best of our three meals). Try the smoked Arctic trio of whale, seal and reindeer (yes, it'll taste like "guilt”). Enjoy the baked camembert, seafood chowder and entrecote steak. (Tip: Mary-Ann's will do laundry for cheap as well.)

Your guide from Better Moments will pick you up, suit you up (overalls can handle minus 50 degrees!) and give you a briefing on driving fancy-looking snowmobiles. Don't fret: it's not as daunting as it appears.

Snowmobiling up and down steep hills and curving ruts to a pristine glacier under the midnight sun is pretty amazing! You'll see many reindeer, but also keep an eye out for Arctic foxes. The trick to going up hills: high speed!

You'll get home by 1:30 am--later if you choose the eight-hour tour!

Today, you'll head home or, if you're lucky, board a cruise around Svalbard in search of polar bears. Check out my report from aboard Quark's Ultramarine!