Curator’s statement
After years of wanting to return, I finally made it back to Copenhagen - an incredibly special, inviting and highly-accessible city. Here you can take the time to walk (or bike) everywhere, with a limitless amount of fabulous food and drink to indulge in, and where the options to satisfy your cultural cravings are plentiful. Copenhagen really does have it all.
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Day 1: Meatpacking, Louisiana Museum of Modern Art & Vesterbro
Prolog Coffee Bar: Each day should begin with a warm beverage and pastry. Start your morning in the industrialized Meatpacking neighborhood and pop into the always bustling Prolog and grab some of the best coffee (or tea) in Copenhagen and a fresh pastry to-go. Depending on the weather, take a moment to sit outside at the round bistro tables and bask in the warm sunshine with an always hip (and fashionable) crowd.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art: Now fully caffeinated and ready for the day, a quick walk through Meatpacking will bring you to a buzzing train station full of commuters and day-trippers like yourself. And just thirty minutes after boarding, you’ll be in the country setting of Humlebæk- home to one of the most special (and most visited) museums in Denmark. The Louisiana is significant in its classically modern Danish design and extensive art collections, both temporary and permanent. Be sure to schedule in at least a few hours to explore paintings, sculptures and digital media dating from World War II to present day, housed in their iconic buildings connected by semi-transparent glass corridors. No trip is complete without sitting outside at the museum’s café, perched atop a seaside bluff overlooking the Øresund Sound.
Hija de Sanchez or Kødbyens Fiskebar: After your day at the museum, sustenance will be crucial in the form of a late lunch or early dinner. Once you disembark from the train, head straight back to the Meatpacking district for a variety of food & drink options. Tacos at Hija de Sanchez are a casual and easy option. Pick up the daily combo (pastor, grilled cabbage and potato being my favorite), fresh chips & salsa, a Jarritos soda and you’ll be all set. Another choice just around the corner, boasting fresh seafood and natural wines is the popular Kødbyens Fiskebar. Set in a rustic and ever lively room, take your pick from six different kinds of oysters, steamed mussels or fresh catch of the day, among many other delectable options. Also a preferable option is the classic fish and chips topped with a homemade Danish remoulade sauce. Post dinner, chances are you might want to continue the evening with dessert, or a nice nightcap. Fortunately you have many options right at your disposal - stay in the heart of meatpacking or take a stroll into Vesterbro’s central hub. For a high-end microbrewery, try Mikkeller. For a casual glass of wine, v.Lo Wine Bar. Or for something a bit more unique, try a seasonal cocktail at Duck and Cover.
Day 2: Gardens & Shopping
Atelier September & Rosenborg Castle and Gardens: Local favorite Atelier September is perfect for a late breakfast or brunch, and you will avoid some of the earlier crowds at this hotspot. With an open kitchen in an airy and relaxed setting, their avocadomad and almond pancakes are both delicious and a top order. If you’re feeling more adventurous, try the porridge with homemade blueberry jam, plated beautifully with a fresh basil garnish and olive oil— it’s perfection. Now grab a tea or coffee to-go and have a quick walk over to Rosenborg Castle and Gardens. The castle is home to the crown jewels and over 400 years of history and other poignant treasure(s) to discover. Still surrounded by a reflective moat filled with ducks and carp descendents from the 1600s, the Rosenborg Barracks are also close by, and you might even catch the Royal Danish Life Guard in drill practice. The gardens surrounding the castle, with their sprawling green lawns and manicured tree-laden paths are worth strolling through and leisurely enjoying. On a warm and sunny day you’re likely to find many taking lunch with friends and colleagues on the benches or in picnic form, often with a shared bottle of wine.
Indre By - Shopping: Fortunately you are already situated in a prime location for an afternoon of shopping. Leaving the gardens by way of Gothersgade street, you will approach the bustle of people bopping in and out of stores, cafés and restaurants. Between distinctive design and the minimalistic cool fashion that the Danes are well known for, there are a multitude of stores to peruse. Some of the more notable Danish fashion houses- Ganni, Baum und Pferdgarten, Stine Goya and By Malene Birger (among others) have storefronts here. Additionally, there are a variety of eclectic stores that mix playful and classic fashion, plus art and lifestyle pieces - Wood Wood, Storm and Henrik Vibskov were introduced to me on a recent trip, and I would highly recommend taking a peek. And for traditional furniture & design, and perhaps something to commemorate your trip, Hay House and Klassik have all the books, ceramics and kitchen wares your heart may desire.
Pompette and Bæst: You’ve earned a meal by now, so it’s time to head over one of the three bridges (on foot or on bike) that connects Indre By with buzzy and hip Nørrebro. Rest your feet and settle into a table at charming Pompette, a friendly and stripped down neighborhood bar serving natural wines and light bar snacks. Known for its simplicity and quality, do pick up a bottle of orange to enjoy later at your hotel. Now, before you fill up on cheese and wine, keep in mind dinner is at Bæst and you will want to be able to fully indulge. Famous for a focus on sustainability and seasonality (and pizza), Bæst has made a name for itself by producing in-house, their bread, meats and cheese daily. Their classic tomato & garlic pizza with fresh stracciatella is melt-in-your-mouth divine, and pairs perfectly with a crisp lemon-vinaigrette fennel salad. If you are sharing, definitely order the hand-stretched Bæst mozzarella — it is not to be missed. Their tiramisu is also impeccable and their negroni is one of the best I’ve ever had.
Day 3: Explore Nyhavn, Christianshavn & Freetown Christiania
GRØD: You may have already sampled traditional Danish porridge (grød) by now, but GRØD the restaurant takes it to another level. Start your morning with a classic oat porridge with fruit and GRØD’s homemade caramel sauce, or go for the Koldskål - vanilla sugar and lemon topped with kammerjunke-granola, a variety of fruit and red berry compote. Once you’ve picked your porridge, be sure to enjoy a fresh homemade drink- rhubarb lemonade and the freshly squeezed carrot juice are popular options. Should you like to come back to try a savory lunch special, the risottos and hearty barley bowls are just as tasty. There are multiple locations, so feel free to choose depending on your home base.
Nyhavn & Christianshavn/ Freetown Christiania/ Restaurant Barr: Nyhavn, the iconic 17th-century harbor, is a must-see on your trip. Regardless of the weather (although there’s nothing more picturesque than the multi-colored townhouses glowing against the sparkling water on a sunny day), you must stroll the waterfront. Amongst the historic homes, boats and restaurants & stalls, there is no shortage of energy, things to explore and people to see. A canal tour is not a bad idea and will give you a front-row seat to take it all in. Continuing east on foot, cross over Knippelsbro bridge and you will come into Christianshavn - an artificial island, with a canal running straight through the center. Take a stroll beside the water and admire more colorful and quirky homes or enjoy a birds-eye view of Copenhagen by climbing to the very top of the historic Church of Our Saviour - navigated by way of the external winding spiral staircase. However I warn you, this is not for the faint of heart or those fearful of great heights.
You might also like to explore Freetown Christiania a bit whilst here. It is a self-proclaimed commune that follows their own counter-cultural belief system since the 1970’s. Known for their bright and colorful street art, it’s definitely worth wandering around just to see the many unique murals and designs. Making your way back to the bridge, you should consider stopping by Restaurant Barr, a cozy and casual waterfront restaurant with an adjoining specialized beer bar. May it be for snacks and a drink, or a beautifully curated fine-dining experience, Barr serves up full comfort food in a lovely wood-beamed space. If you’re lucky with warmer temperatures, I would suggest sitting outside with a cold beverage, feet dangling over the water's edge.
Alouette: You should certainly treat yourself for your final meal, and Michelin-starred restaurant Alouette won’t disappoint. Housed in a former envelope factory in Islands Brygge, Alouette is hidden behind an unassuming entrance, where a graffiti painted elevator ushers you into an warm and relaxed space. Chef Nick Curtin works closely with local farms to source key ingredients for each week’s special (and often unexpected) five-course tasting menu. You are invited to enjoy an array of beautifully plated cuisines represented by a variety of cultures. So take a seat near the wood-fired hearth in the dining room, and savor this unique adventure of unexpected flavors and surprise.
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Copenhagen.