Beyond Paella: A Guide to Vibrant Valencia

• Cuitat Vella: First-time visitors should start in the old town. Be sure to visit the cathedral, silk exchange, ceramics museum, central market and the many stunningly pretty squares.

• Leafy wanders: A stroll from the old town along the leafy seven-mile Turia park brings you to architect Santiago Calatrava’s mind-bending City of Arts and Sciences and Europe’s largest aquarium. Another great park option is the new Central Park near the train station.

More options for a deeper dive into the landscape, culture and food of Valencia...

• Book a guided bike ride through the city’s surrounding market gardens and sample local horchata (a tiger-nut drink) at the source

• Take a walking tour of Valencia’s awesome street murals

• Build in a beach day followed by sundown snacks and aperitifs in the former fisherman’s barrio of Cabañyal and live music at the Fabrica de Hielo.

• Eat paella in a village in the rice fields, then cruise through Albufera nature reserve on a boat at sunset.

• Go full Fallas! Valencia’s annual March festival of fireworks is all about noise, processions and traditional costumes.

Day trips

There are ample things to explore just a few hours from the city. Whether you go south to the beautiful villages of the Mediterranean coast or inland to the mountainous countryside.

• Denia and Javea: About 10 miles apart, Denia and Javea are two pretty coastal towns south of Valencia. Denia, the larger of the two, is famous for its gastronomy and is home to Quique Dacosta’s 3-Michelin-starred restaurant. Jávea is a well-heeled little town, with a pretty old port area.

• Wine tasting in Utiel-Requena: Don't miss the chance to explore this ancient wine region close to the city, which produces wine from Bobal grapes. I recommend a tour, tasting and a night in a vineyard hotel.

• Splash in thermal springs: Montanejos is an area of clear pools and streams for bathing and grassy banks for lazing and picnicking. It's a favorite day trip of Valencians.

• Chulilla: This pretty white village in a hikers paradise peeps across a dramatic ravine. After a hearty lunch at El Pozo, take a wander across the rope bridge and a dip in the blue pools.

• Guadalest: Packed with tourists in summer, still, this tiny fortified town on top of a huge rock is a must-see. Make the day extra special with a wine tasting at a nearby family vineyard, Masos Guadalest.

Valencia, despite the proliferation of modern chains, is hanging onto many of its wonderful old restaurants. Local chefs are elevating the dining scene at the Michelin level. It’s worth noting that this is not really a tapas city — there are some authentic Andalusian tapas restaurants here, but it’s not a big part of the local food culture.

Bars

Valencia is a warm-weather, cafe society, and those cafes morph seamlessly into evening spots where people sip wines, beers and mixed drinks in the evenings. However, when you want something special, these cocktail bars should be on your list.

Insider tip: Aquarium: A bona-fide classic, Aquarium has been around since 1957. Our favorite for a great martini, tasty snacks and meeting clientele who’ve been having their daily aperitif here for decades.

• Only You hotel bar: Creative cocktails and an upscale ambiance a stone's throw from the main square, Plaza Ayuntamiento. The perfect pre-dinner stop-off.

• Botanista: A cozy nook in a skinny street in the old El Carmen neighborhood. The friendly owner and his girlfriend make divine cocktails.

• Rooftop Bar 270º at the Barcelo hotel: Famous for its superb views over the City of Arts & Sciences and the Turia park at sunset.

Eating

Breakfast Valencia style: Valencians eat a massive late breakfast between 9.30am and 11 am, called “almuerzo” (“esmorzaret” in Valencian). It's a giant sandwich accompanied by pickles and nuts, and washed down with a beer or tinto de verano (red wine mixed with lemonade). Read more about its history in my article for BBC Travel.

• La Cantina: Great variety and organic local produce. They even revived the ancient bread roll recipe.

• Cafe Flor: In Cabanyal. Packed with locals for 100 years, this is the real deal.

• La Pergola: Order the “super bon bon” if you like pork, cheese and fries all in one sandwich and dine outside in the sun.

Rice, rice baby: Paella is only served for lunch and is made with the rice that grows here. Try these three when you're in town (reservations are a must). There's also the option of paella classes to learn to make your own.

• Casa Carmela: This family restaurant near the beach has been cooking the freshest paella over orange-wood fires since 1922.

• L’Alqueria de la Font d’en Courts: This farmhouse restaurant with its shady outdoor terrace is the perfect spot for a three-hour paella feast.

• Bon Aire: A 20-minute drive (or take a bus) away from the city in the tiny village of El Palmar, this place is right in the middle of the rice fields.

Food markets

As well as the famous Central Market, there are other cool food halls to try. In Cabañyal, you’ll find Mercader with stands for oysters and tapas in a walled space and Mercabanyal with its boho terraces and award-winning Hundred burgers and food trucks.

Still got room for dinner?

Just a couple of recommendations out of 100s here!

• Casa Montaña: An iconic taverna for tapas and traditional plates is on everyone's list.

• Anyora: One of my favorite bodegas for farm-to-table eating. Its sister restaurant.

• Canyamelar: A funky little restaurant with a modern spin on local classics.

• Canalla Bistro: Ricard Camerena’s mid-range restaurant in Rusafa. Fun menus and fab cocktails.

Michelin: Valencia has a good number of dining spots with stars for a small city. My absolute favorite is La Salita. Fierro, Riff, El Poblet and Ricard Camerena's eponymous restaurant should go on your list too!