Curator’s statement
Puglia is magical. Italy’s heel is filled with olive oil farms, charming baroque towns on cliffs, turquoise waters, grottos and some of the best seafood you’ll ever have. Imagine strolling through small towns and laying in the sun on some of the most beautiful beaches. The pace is slower, much slower and you’ll find it less crowded than some of other popular Italian destinations (though this might not be for long!) The best way to experience Puglia is on a road trip. It’s about a 3-hour drive from Bari (where you’ll likely fly into) and the most Southern tip of Puglia, Santa Maria de Leuca. Both the northern part and southern part are worth visiting so I recommend spending 3 nights in a Masseria (local farm turned hotel) in the north, and 3 nights down south to properly experience it all. And, although not technically in Puglia, you cannot miss Matera only about an hour from Bari in Basilicata. Matera is one of the oldest towns in the world that has been continuously lived in since 8BC and is carved into a rock. Puglia can be quite hot in July and August, so May, June, September and October are the best times to visit.
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Day 1: Arrive in Bari
After a connecting flight in Rome or another major European city, you’ll land in Bari in northern Puglia. Rent a car and head to your hotel. Depending on what time you arrive, I always recommend taking it easy on the first day! Schedule a massage, lounge by the pool, eat some delicious local food grown on property. If you are up for it, drive to Ostuni for walk through La Citta blanco and an apertivo overlooking the town at Bellavista Pizzeria Bistro
Day 2: Polignano a Mare
This seaside town on the cliff is a must see! Spend the morning checking out the beach (note: it’s on a cliff so not super comfortable but definitely a must see) and after lunch wander the charming streets. There are so many cute shops and art you can see from locals. For lunch, head to Pucceria Number One and grab a Pulpo Pucce with everything – an octopus, burrata, tomato and rocket sandwich. Trust me.
Day 3: Alberobello
Alberobello is known for the Trulli! The centro storico has a proper trulli zone where you can wander and see these really cute homes. The trulli of Alberobello are iconic cone-shaped limestone dwellings with whitewashed walls and conical roofs. Their history dates back to the 14th century when the region was under the rule of the Counts of Conversano, who encouraged the peasants to settle in this area.
The origin of the trulli is believed to be tied to tax evasion. The story goes that the Counts of Conversano imposed taxes on all new settlements. To avoid paying taxes, the peasants constructed these dry-stone buildings without mortar, so they could be easily dismantled when tax inspectors came around. The cone-shaped roofs were also a practical choice, as they could be quickly removed to make the building look like a pile of stones from a distance. Over time, the trulli evolved from simple temporary shelters to permanent homes. The design of the trulli reflects the agricultural and pastoral traditions of the region, with thick stone walls providing insulation against the heat of the summer and the cold of the winter.
Alberobello is now famous for its trulli, which are protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today, many of these historic structures have been converted into shops, restaurants and accommodations, attracting tourists from around the world who come to marvel at their unique architecture and learn about their fascinating history.
Day 4: Drive to Salento
Depending on where you decide to stay, the drive down to Salento will take about 2-3 hours. Stop in Lecce on your way! It’s the one of the oldest baroque towns in the. Depending on your time, it’s also the best place to take a cooking class. Learn how to make traditional Puglia orchettiete pasta!
Day 5: Beach Day
Some of the most beautiful beaches in Puglia are located in Salento so grab your car and explore some of them! Start with checking out the Il Ciolo in Gagliano del Capo. It’s a gorgeous canyon that flows into the sea – the water is turquoise and its under a bridge. The beach and water is quite rocky so I recommend water shoes for this one! Especially if you want to climb to the top of the rock and jump in. Next head to Marina Serra and check out the natural pool – piscine naturale. Best place to swim! For lunch, head to Lo Scalo in Marina di Novaglie for some delclious seafood and a view.
Day 6: Boat Day
Head down to Santa Maria de Leuca for a private boat ride. You can spend the afternoon on the boat or do a sunset boat ride. Boats are the best way to truly visit since there are so many grottos! The skipper will show you the different grottos on the eastern and western part of Leuca, and you’ll be able to swim into them. The water is so clear and turquoise! The boat ride lasts about 3 hours so if you’re up for some more beach lounging before your boat adventure, head to Lido Venere or Lido Marinelli, two beach clubs where you can rent chairs and umbrellas and eat some really tasty seafood.
Day 7: Drive to Matera
The drive from Salento to Matera is about 3 hours. You can stop in Locotrondo on the way.
You’ll arrive in Matera in the late afternoon, and I do highly recommend staying in a cave hotel. Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history that spans thousands of years. The area around Matera has been inhabited since the Paleolithic era, with evidence of cave dwellings dating back over 10,000 years. These cave dwellings, known as Sassi, were carved into the soft limestone cliffs of the region and served as homes for the local population.
In the Middle Ages, Matera was an important center for Byzantine and Longobard communities. The city flourished during the medieval period, with the construction of churches, monasteries, and palaces. However, by the 18th and 19th centuries, Matera had become severely overcrowded and impoverished, with many of its residents living in squalid conditions in the ancient cave dwellings.
In the mid-20th century, the Italian government initiated a program to relocate the inhabitants of the Sassi to modern housing in the new town. The Sassi were largely abandoned and fell into disrepair, earning Matera a reputation as the "shame of Italy."
However, in the late 20th century, efforts to revitalize Matera began. The city's unique and historic architecture attracted attention, and in 1993, Matera's Sassi were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Since then, Matera has undergone a remarkable transformation, with many of the Sassi now restored and repurposed as hotels, restaurants, museums and galleries.
Today, Matera is known for its stunning ancient architecture, rich history and vibrant cultural scene. It has also gained international recognition as a filming location, with movies such as "The Passion of the Christ" and "Wonder Woman 1984" shot in its iconic streets and caves.
Day 8: Explore Matera
The best way to start your exploration of Matera is through a tuk tuk tour. Your driver will take you all around the Sassi or the old town of Matera and give you an introduction to the history of the town. The Sassi has lots of stairs and inclines on rocks so gaining an understanding via car instead of by foot first is always nice. After your drive through the Sassi, wander through the rock church and visit the Casa Grotta nei Sassi di’ Matera nearby. The museum features a recreated cave home and shows you diagrams and videos of how people used to live. It’s fascinating to see! For lunch, head to Trattoria del Caveoso.
After lunch, spend some time getting lost in the Sassi. The best way to see Matera is to wander and you’ll never really know what view you’ll stumble on. If you have time, the best way to end the day is to have a massage and visit the baths in a cave. I recommend making an appointment at the Sextiano!
Head to Regiacorte for aperitivo and a view! For dinner, head to Baccanti, a Michelin-star restaurant in a cave at a great price point. The dishes are inventive and delicious! Share everything.
Day 9: Matera
Get up early to hike the Belvedere Murgia Timone in the Murgia Materana Park trail. Its steep on the way down so wear comfortable shoes preferably hiking shoes or sneakers with a grip. You’ll need to hike down then cross a hanging bridge and then up to the caves. Check out a few caves, and one of the best views of the Sassi. It can get really hot in the Sassi so the earlier the better.
Grab lunch and start the drive back to Bari for your flight!
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This itinerary is part of our ongoing series on travel to Italy. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my itinerary, Best 10 day itinerary for Morocco.