Most Visited City 2023: Istanbul

Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace: Most first-time visitors will head to the historical center of Sultanahmet; Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace are in my opinion the two most important sites to visit there.

Basilica Cistern: The Basilica Cistern is also in Sultanahmet. I find it fascinating as it is a unique subterranean vestige of ancient Byzantium.

Serdar-I-Ekrem Street: Off the Galata Tower is Serdar-I-Ekrem, which has a host of vintage clothing, eyewear and home goods shops, cool cafes and is the location of the Georges Hotel.

Sunset Bosphorus Cruise: I considered this cruise on a yacht the highlight of my visit to Istanbul. We literally traveled between two continents, Europe and Asia, and had views of neighborhoods like Bebek from the water. Timing the trip at sunset was magical.

Karakoy: Karakoy is termed the "coolest neighborhood" in Istanbul. I have to agree with that, as hanging out there reminded me of the early days of SoHo in NYC. It is full of cafes, restaurants and bars, with a good mix of international tourists and hip locals.

Galataport: Right by Karakoy is the new port development of Galataport. It is a cruise ship terminal with a waterside promenade, restaurants and shops. It is also the location of the new Istanbul Modern Museum and Peninsula Hotel.

Istanbul Modern: The Istanbul Modern is the city's new museum of contemporary art. It was designed by master architect Renzo Piano, who masterfully situated it by the water at Galataport. It is incredibly beautiful on a sunny day when the sunlight hits and highlights its facade.

Kilic Ali Pasa Hamam: This hammam is another "must-do" experience in Istanbul. It is located in the historic Ali Pasa Mosque built in the 1500s. It has been recently refreshed for modern visitors; check the website schedule for admission hours as women are usually allowed in the morning and men in the afternoon.

Ataturk Cultural Center: I was not able to attend a performance at the Center; but was able to tour it. Local architectural firm Tabanlioglu Architects (also the designers of the new Istanbul International Airport) crafted a masterful space which is modern but echoes traditional Turkish materials and craftsmanship.

Guney Restaurant Galata: Guney is a cafe located at the foot of the touristy Galata Tower. It is frequented by both Istanbulites and tourists, as the menu offerings of International and Turkish cuisine are quite good. Great spot for people watching as well. I went there a couple of times for their excellent lamb kebabs.

Balik Durum Mehmet Usta: I had to try the "Balik Durum" aka "Fish Wrap" after watching food bloggers on YouTube raving about it. Be ready for the long queue as word has gotten out about how good this wrap is. They make it fresh to order and with no bones whatsoever. Extremely good Karakoy street food.

Bazlama Kahvalti Nisantasi: Kahvalti is the traditional abundant Turkish breakfast spread, and Nisantasi is Istanbul's version of New York's Upper East side. Kahvalti has to be experienced at least once in Istanbul, as it illustrates the Turkish love for the mix of sweet and savory. Some of my favorite elements are kaymak with honey (clotted cream), menemen (scrambled eggs) and sujuk (beef sausage).

Hafiz Mustafa 1864: From its original location in Istanbul, Hafiz Mustafa has gone global, with locations as far off as Dubai. Most travelers head to one of its Istanbul locations to purchase baklava. I on the other hand went every other day for its amazing kunefe (sweet cheese pastry) topped with Turkish ice cream and washed down with cay (Turkish black tea).

Aperitivo and Dinner at Le Fumoir, Georges Hotel Rooftop: Georges Hotel is located on the charming Serder-I-Ekrem street. It is owned by a Frenchman, so it has a lot of savoir faire and unstuffy elegance. The rooftop terrace has epic views of the Bosphorus, the Galata neighborhood and Sultanahmet; and the French-inflected cuisine is great as well.

Hatay Medeniyetler Sofrasi Taksim: This restaurant chain owned by celebrity chef Burak Ozdemir is a favorite of legends like Messi, Ronaldo and Ronaldinho. I had seen CZN Burak's viral videos on YouTube and once again, lunch there did not disappoint. The prices for the Hatay specialties like kebabs, platters were fair, service was good and highly entertaining.

Karabatak Cafe': Karabatak has a great location in Karakoy where you can sit outdoors, enjoy one of their specialty coffee drinks and savor an excellent cake.

Simit Sarayi Istiklal: Simit is the Turkish version of a sesame-covered bagel. They can be found at street carts all over the city. Simit Sarayi on Istiklal was my "go-to" for a breakfast on the go, as they had versions filled with cheese and sujuk.

Bodrum Manti Cafe': Mantis are Turkish dumplings, sometimes called Turkish ravioli. Bodrum Cafe' in Galataport is known for their meat-filled and yogurt-sauced versions