Curator’s statement
Puglia, a lesser-explored gem situated in the southernmost eastern part of Italy, often referred to as the "heel of the boot," is full of delightful towns, stunning baroque architecture, quaint trattorias and hidden beaches. Coupled with its warm southern hospitality, Puglia stands as an enchanting Italian destination waiting to be discovered. Don't miss the chance to experience it before it becomes a widely known hotspot.
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Where to stay in Puglia, Italy
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Things to do in Puglia, Italy
I had an incredible opportunity to fulfill a long-standing item on my bucket list: a journey to Puglia, an Italian region that I had pinned on my Pinterest board for years.
My husband and I had the pleasure of staying at Borgo Egnazia, a grand hotel intricately designed with traditional Puglian architecture, resembling a charming village. The ambiance at this place radiates tranquility, making it incredibly difficult to depart.
The leisurely time at the hotel, challenged my love for exploring and taking in as much as I can on every trip. Balance was achieved thanks to the proximity of the excursions.
To get there, we chose to fly to Rome and then from Rome to Brindisi. Then we took a 45-minute drive to the hotel. Alternatively, one can opt to fly into Bari and embark on a scenic one-hour drive.
For this particular journey, we decided against renting a car and instead meticulously organized our activities, making sure they included convenient pick-up and drop-off. It's worth noting that ride-sharing services like Uber or conventional taxis are not readily available in the region. Taxi services require prior arrangement and can involve a long waiting period. Therefore, I would highly recommend either renting a car or pre-arranging all your transportation needs.
On our first day, we explored the enchanting town of Polignano a Mare, just a short 25-minute drive from the hotel. This picturesque town nestled by the Adriatic Sea offered breathtaking views. We embarked on a Cliff Boat tour, which took us to more than nine caves. Although we had the opportunity to plunge into the turquoise waters, the chilly May weather kept us on the boat. Following the tour, we walked around town and enjoyed a traditional Puglian meal for lunch, featuring Cacciocavalo cheese, bombete and orecchiette.
The following day we had an amazing “hands on” cooking experience at a local Masseria (farm house), where we learned how to make the dishes that we tried the previous day, plus Taralli. The traditional biscuits that are offered in Puglia all the time.
For dinner in the evening, we made our way to Ostuni, a 30-minute drive from the hotel. This town, perched atop a hill, is renowned for its whitewashed buildings and labyrinthine alleyways (full of cute shops). Our dining experience at Osteria del Tempo Perso (a Michelin-starred restaurant) was truly exceptional, set within a captivating cave ambiance. For those considering a visit, I would recommend making dinner reservations well in advance through their website and requesting a table within the cave, a unique dining atmosphere.
Our next destination, also a 30-minute drive from the hotel, was Alberobello, famous for its Trulli, traditional stone huts with distinctive conical roofs. These stone houses, constructed without cement, could be easily disassembled, allowing residents to evade property taxes. Given its popularity among tourists, arriving early is advisable to avoid large crowds.
Another memorable day trip took us to Lecce, a larger city located south of Brindisi, celebrated for its baroque architecture, Roman columns and a sunken Roman amphitheater. It is a one-hour drive south of the hotel.
With a knowledgeable guide leading us through the city's history, we embarked on a walking tour. Afterward, I hoped to do some shopping; however, I learned the timing was less than ideal, as most stores closed between 1pm and 4pm. This is a crucial detail to bear in mind when traveling during the low season, as during the bustling summer months, more stores tend to remain open throughout the day to cater to tourists.
Our final day at Borgo Egnazia was dedicated to relaxation and enjoying the hotel's amenities. We enjoyed a delightful lunch at Cala Masiola, the hotel's Beach Club restaurant. The water was still a tad too cold for my liking, but the view and the sea breeze were absolutely delightful.
Following lunch, we treated ourselves to a spa visit; the rejuvenating massages use the locally processed olive oil. Did you know that Puglia boasts around 60 million olive trees and produces 50% of Italy's olive oil?
Though I had Puglia on my bucket list, it is such a great destination that you can bet I'm going back someday. There's so much more to explore.
If you ever think of visiting Puglia, Borgo Egnazia is my top pick for a place to stay. But if big hotels aren't your thing, there are plenty of smaller hotels and farmhouses you can rent. Feel free to reach out if you're planning a trip—I'd be more than happy to help you put together an unforgettable Puglia adventure!
Top 5 Puglia Recommendations
You can have a base (either hotel or rental) and travel to different places during your stay.
Some towns are so small that you can dedicate a few hours there and then go to the next town.
Consider renting a car, or having all your transportation needs taken care of; don’t rely on taxis or sharides.
During the low-season, stores close at midday, so plan accordingly if you want to do some shopping.
Don’t go on a diet; be prepared to try the delicious food. It is ok to eat pasta everyday while in Italy.
Travel Advisor
Clara Bicas
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For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor David Rosenberg's guide, Slowing Down in Puglia, Italy.
This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Puglia.