Encountering Art (Everywhere) in Naoshima

Three of Ando Tadao (Japan’s most famous architect) Art Museums:

• Chichu Art Museum: You’ll likely recognize Claude Monet’s Water Lillies here — a series of five paintings displayed in a peaceful gallery with natural light. The museum is mostly underground, so it will be hard not to admire Tadao’s distinctive design. There is also an impressive James Turrell installation.

• Ando Museum: This museum is an Ando-designed inside space, outlined by bare concrete walls, which bathes new life into this centenarian wooden house. Ando’s “aim was to create a space that conjures a rich sense of depth despite its small size.”

• Benesse House Museum: Part museum, part hotel (read more in where to stay). Benesse House has dozens of works by Japanese masters, including Sugimoto, Yanagi and Kuniyoshi. It also has works by international rockstars like Twombly, Rauschenberg and Basquiat spread inside and outside the building.

Other artist projects:

• Lee Ufan Museum: After checking out the work of Ufan, the South Korean painter and sculptor, make sure to pass through his giant outdoor sculpture and check out the view of the sea from the small beach.

• Art House Project: Artists have taken vacant houses scattered around the residential areas of the Honmura district and turned them into art. There are seven houses in total. Save time for Minamidera, another Tadao Ando-designed house on Naoshima Island. It houses a James Turrell light installation (but DO NOT read anything about it before you go, it will ruin the surprise!)

Naoshima Bath "I♥︎湯"

From the murals to the wall mosaics to the toilets, this house created by Shinro Ohtake, is an art and community bath house. Grab your towel (or buy one at the gift shop) and take a bath encircled by art.

• Yayao Kusama’s Pumpkins: There are two polka-dotted Kusama pumpkins on the island. If your ferry drops you off at Miyanoura port, the red one will greet you on arrival. The yellow pumpkin is situated on its own pier at the Benesse House.

• Take a break from the art, but you’ll still encounter it:

Walk or bike ride

Take a self-guided and leisurely stroll or ride around the island (electric bikes can be rented near the Miyonoura Ferry port). Enjoy shrines, small streets in the village, beaches and keep your eye out for the Pokémon slowpoke manhole cover.

• Go’o Shrine and Appropriate Proportion: Situated up on a hill in Honmura, Go’o Shrine traces its origins back to the Muromachi period (1338–1573). It’s a new/old shrine that’s also an art piece designed by Hiroshi Sugimoto. You can visit the shrine any time, even though it’s an artwork. It’s also a real Shinto shrine, and there is a small surprise waiting for you on its right side (when facing it).

Breakfast

• Breakfast Buffet at Terrace Restaurant @ Benesse House: Partaking of the breakfast buffet at Benesse House’s Terrace restaurant means an opportunity to sample traditional Japanese breakfast options (like fish, rice, miso soup) while still having a fall-back of American and European staples (like eggs, waffles, croissants.) It’s a risk-free breakfast.

Lunch

• Konichiwa Café: A cute and cozy local restaurant in Honmura, Konnichiwa is famous for their Konnichiwa Curry, enjoy it with a beer and a view of the sea.

• Benesse House Museum Café: Who doesn’t want a bowl of pumpkin soup after seeing the Kusama pumpkins? It’s a laid-back café with a limited menu, but heavy on the dessert options.

Dinner

• Terrace Restaurant @ Benesse House: Time your dinner to sunset and you’ll appreciate the picturesque views from the Terrace Restaurant, which can be experienced through floor-to-ceiling windows. Offering a traditional Japanese sushi experience in a fine dining setting, you’ll of course be surrounded by art, this time it’s iconic prints by Michelangelo Pistoletto.

• Ebisukamo: The owner of Ebisukamo is known for going above and beyond for customers, and I thought it was just our party. Share some delicious dishes and linger in this laid-back, friendly restaurant.

Drinks

• Café Bar: If you are not lodging at the Ryokan Roka, it’s worth checking out the onsite bar for a cocktail or mocktail. They make their own herbal liqueurs, which line the counter and elevate the one-of-a-kind experience of the island.

• Oval Lounge: The Oval Lounge is technically only for guests of the Benesse Oval hotel property. If you aren’t staying there, try talking your way onto the monorail for a cocktail at the lounge. Or just book your room there.