A 3-Day Weekend in Fascinating Belgrade, Serbia

Belgrade is easily accessible by flight and train from other European destinations. Settle in to your centrally-located hotel — the Hotel Moskva is a regal historic hotel with Art Nouveau design located close to the main city plaza. Use the afternoon to explore the fortress ruins at Kalemegdan Park. If it’s warm — or even if it’s not — stroll a few blocks away to Crna Ovca (pronounced “sirnay ovsay”) for ice cream made in-house. I like local flavors such as walnut and biscuit — be sure to give it a try!

Kalemegdan is one of the true gems of Belgrade. Not only is it free to visit, but between enjoying the public park and exploring the fortress ruins, you will never run out of things to do. It’s a fantastic place to have a picnic, if the weather agrees. The park’s location, being so close to the heart of the city, makes it easy to pick up food for takeout. Enjoy watching locals hanging out with their friends, kids and dogs!

You have many options for dinner, but I recommend going to the bohemian Skadarska Street. It’s bursting with traditional Serbian restaurants, all with traditional live music. My favorite, both for the menu and the atmosphere, is Dva Jelena. Its rustic décor and delectable grilled meat dishes will leave you wanting more. Get an appetizer of fresh ajvar (pronounced “eye-var”), a delicious roasted red pepper and garlic spread! Slather it on their fresh-baked herb bread. My husband’s favorite dish includes meat wrapped in meat and cheese — a feast for the true carnivore.

It’s worth noting that dinner time in Serbia is much later than most people are used to. When I first arrived in Belgrade on a 2015 visit, we didn’t head to dinner until 9 pm — but there were many other parties coming in hours after us. This means that if you eat at your typical dinner time, you may not have to fight the crowds, but if you can come later, you can enjoy the pulse of Belgrade’s nightlife.

Speaking of nightlife: did you know that Belgrade is known for its riverfront clubs? Many barges along the Sava and Danube Rivers have been converted into bars and cafes. There is a barge — or splavovi, as they’re called — to suit everyone’s interests. You’re bound to have a good time listening to music and enjoying drinks with new friends until dawn.

There is so much to do in this exciting city! If you don’t get to everything on this list, you’ll have a great reason to return.

Start your day with a quick breakfast at one of Belgrade’s many small cafes, if you didn’t stay out too late enjoying the nightlife. I recommend not eating too heavily, to save room for lunch and dinner. I like grabbing a small bite and coffee at Kafeterija Magazin, not far from Kalemegdan Park. Power up for the day with your favorite espresso drink, detox with a cold-pressed juice and savor a light pastry.

Once you are caffeinated, you can continue exploring the park, if you didn’t have enough time yesterday. Key places to explore include the walls of the fortress, the Victory Monument overlooking the river confluence, the military museum and the Ružica Church. Belgrade is so lucky to have so much nature and history a stone’s throw from the city center.

For a very local museum experience, head over to the Nikola Tesla Museum. This science museum honors the life and work of the physicist Nikola Tesla. There are interactive exhibits, which are popular — best to visit earlier in the day for the full experience.

Time for a lunch break, and I recommend Kafana Question Mark. A kafana is a traditional casual restaurant, similar to a pub. Question Mark is the oldest kafana in the city, built in the traditional Balkan style. It’s a little touristy, but the food is delicious. Be sure to ask the interesting history of the name! If you haven’t yet tried cevapcici (pronounced “cheVAPchichi”) on your trip – small rolls of seasoned grilled beef — this is a solid opportunity.

Continue southeast along Bulevar Oslobodenja to the beautiful Temple of Saint Sava. This ornate Eastern Orthodox church started construction in 1935, but due to World War II and communism, construction was halted until the 2000s. The interior was not completed until 2021, now filled with elaborate mosaics.

For dinner, head back to Skadarska Street for another hit of local cuisine. It’s a great opportunity to try another local restaurant, or go back to Dva Jelena. If you enjoy salads, the Srpska (pronounced “serpska”) salad is a refreshing mixture of fresh local cucumbers and tomatoes. I really like it during the summer. Another similar restaurant on the same street is Tri Sesira (pronounced “tree sheshira”), which provides a traditional Yugoslavian experience. Both of these places will delight you with live entertainment from strolling musicians.

Be sure to enjoy the vibrant café scene for your final breakfast. If your flight leaves later in the day, you’ll have time for another hearty lunch, so make your breakfast selection appropriately. You can try Sloj Bistro and Bakery in the industrial Dorçol (pronounced “doorchol”) neighborhood. It’s a great opportunity to explore another part of the city, as well as indulge in delicious pastries. Another solid option is Supermarket Deli, a restaurant on the site of the first discount supermarket in then-Yugoslavia.

If you haven’t done so yet, explore the pedestrian zone in the heart of the city, Knez Mihailova Street. The historic architecture, which is protected by law, adds to the charming ambiance of this walkway, lined with boutiques and cafes. You can find international brands such as Zara and Sephora alongside small art galleries and local eateries.

Hopefully, you have had enough time to visit all of your favorite spots, and revisit a few. As you end your adventure in this energetic city, reflect on its blend of tradition, history and modern culture. I know I always want to go back!