Curator’s statement
Starting in Nagano, just an 80-minute Shinkansen ride from Tokyo, the journey through Nagano and Toyama holds a special place in my heart. These areas blend peaceful natural beauty with rich cultural experiences that feel uniquely Japanese. From the snow-capped peaks of the Japanese Alps to the serene shores of Toyama Bay, this region offers a perfect escape into Japan’s quieter side, with landscapes and experiences that are both immersive and unforgettable.
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Day 1: Welcome to Nagano
Start your journey at Zenko-ji Temple, a 1,400-year-old Buddhist treasure and one of Japan’s most significant temples. Don’t miss the underground passage beneath the main hall — it’s believed that finding the “key to paradise” hidden in the pitch-black tunnel brings enlightenment.
After soaking up the temple’s peaceful atmosphere, head to Kitanoya Soba, a cozy spot where the Kitano family has been serving handmade soba for over 100 years. Their noodles, crafted from locally grown buckwheat, are paired with a secret-recipe broth that’s been perfected across generations. Whether you enjoy them hot or cold, Kitanoya’s soba is a perfect introduction to Nagano’s culinary heritage.
In the evening, take a relaxed stroll through Nagano’s old streets, where traditional buildings and charming shops give a taste of the city’s rich history. For a cozy nightcap, drop into a local izakaya for a glass of sake or warm tea and experience a slice of local life.
Day 2: Snow monkeys and Onsen Retreat
Prepare for an unforgettable day at Jigokudani Monkey Park, where you’ll see the famous snow monkeys soaking in natural hot springs. It’s about an hour’s drive from Nagano, but watching these adorable creatures unwind in steamy onsens — especially with a snowy backdrop — is worth every minute.
After your visit, warm up with a comforting bowl of ramen or curry at Enza Cafe, conveniently located near the park entrance.
In the evening, make your way to Shibu Onsen or Yudanaka Onsen for a rejuvenating hot spring experience of your own. These charming onsen towns are known for their healing waters and quaint streets lined with traditional ryokan. Stay overnight at a classic ryokan like Kanaguya, where you can relax with a soothing soak and enjoy a beautifully crafted kaiseki dinner showcasing fresh, seasonal ingredients. It’s the perfect way to wind down after a magical day.
Day 3: Toyama
Say goodbye to Nagano and make your way to Toyama, about a 2-hour journey by train or car. This coastal city, with its spectacular mountain views and some of Japan’s freshest seafood, is a hidden gem that’s well worth exploring.
Begin your Toyama experience at Toyama Castle Park, where the reconstructed castle offers panoramic views of the city and the stunning Tateyama Mountain Range. For lunch, dive into the local seafood scene at Sushiei, a beloved spot where you can savor masu (trout) sushi and other fresh catches from the deep, nutrient-rich waters of Toyama Bay.
In the late afternoon, head to Fugan Canal Kansui Park, a peaceful spot perfect for a relaxing stroll with breathtaking mountain views, especially at sunset. Be sure to stop by Starbucks Kansui Park — its beautiful lakeside setting makes it one of the most scenic Starbucks in the world.
For dinner, indulge in Toyama’s signature Shiroebi (white shrimp) tempura at Shiroebi-tei. Known for their sweet, delicate flavor, these white shrimp are a regional specialty and a delicious way to end your first day in Toyama.
Day 4: Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route – The Roof of Japan
Today, embark on the breathtaking Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, one of Japan’s most scenic mountain experiences. This journey through the Northern Alps leads you past towering snow walls (particularly stunning in spring), verdant valleys, and up to Murodo — the route's highest point with panoramic alpine views.
Pause for lunch along the way and try the signature Tateyama curry, cleverly shaped like a mountain, served at one of the cozy mountain huts.
After lunch, continue on to the Kurobe Dam, Japan’s tallest dam, where you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views of the turquoise reservoir below. Opt for a scenic hike around the area or a boat ride to soak in the full beauty of the landscape — this alpine adventure is sure to leave a lasting impression.
Return to Toyama for dinner at Menya Iroha, a 5-time ramen champion, known for its signature Toyama Black Ramen. The rich, dark soy sauce broth makes for a hearty, satisfying finish to an unforgettable day in the mountains.
Day 5: Amaharashi Coast and Toyama’s coastal charm
Wrap up your journey with a visit to the breathtaking Amaharashi Coast, just outside Toyama City. This coastal gem offers some of the most stunning views in the region, where crystal-clear waters meet the dramatic Tateyama Mountain Range. On clear days, the sight of the snow-capped peaks rising above the sea is truly unforgettable.
Take a leisurely stroll along the coastline, and you may catch a glimpse of Oshima, a small rocky island crowned by a single pine tree — a perfect postcard scene.
After working up an appetite, head to Amaharashi Onsen Iso-no-Yu for a meal of fresh, seasonal seafood while overlooking the coast. Dining here combines Toyama's culinary delights with a panoramic seaside view, making it a memorable experience.
Before departing, stop by the Shinminato Kittokito Market to sample more of Toyama’s seafood or pick up a few local souvenirs. Then, visit the Takaoka Daibutsu, a nearly 50-foot-tall Buddha statue that’s one of Japan’s largest — a peaceful and fitting end to your Toyama adventure.
From here, take the Shinkansen back to Tokyo, carrying with you memories of Toyama’s coastal beauty, alpine wonders and rich culinary culture.
Need to know
If you’ve already experienced the classic Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka route, this itinerary is a fantastic alternative for a unique 1-week to 10-day trip. Start from Haneda, dive into Tokyo for a couple of days, then set off on an alpine adventure through Nagano and Toyama. And if you have extra time, let me know — I’d love to help extend your journey deeper into Japan’s beautiful backcountry!
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Christina Ng
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Japan. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out Peter Davison's guide, Carving or Shredding the Japanese Alps: Hakuba Ski Resorts.