Curator’s statement
Ireland holds deep significance for me, as it is the place my ancestors emigrated from during the famine and where I chose to live for two months during a college internship in 2017. Returning to Ireland this June felt like coming full circle, especially as I had the privilege of sharing this experience with my husband on his first trip to Europe. Our journey was thoughtfully crafted to balance revisiting beloved spots in Dublin while also exploring the breathtaking beauty along the Wild Atlantic Way. We also made sure to honor my family's roots by spending time in County Cork while introducing my husband to the iconic locations that make Ireland so enchanting. Renting a car allowed us the freedom to turn this into a true road trip, giving us access to some of Ireland's most stunning yet remote locations. While there are tour operators offering day trips to many of these destinations, having our own vehicle made it all the more special. This trip was not only a reconnection with the past but also an opportunity to create new memories in a place that will always be close to my heart.
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Day 1: Arrive in Dublin
Most flights from the United States to Dublin depart in the afternoon and arrive in the morning, allowing you to maximize your first day of exploration.
After checking into your hotel and freshening up, start off your Dublin adventure with a hearty lunch at Darkey Kelly's, a traditional pub known for its warm atmosphere and classic Irish fare.
After lunch, take a short walk to Christ Church Cathedral (two-minute walk from Darkey Kelly's), one of Dublin's most iconic landmarks.
From there, it's just a brief stroll to Dublin Castle (a five-minute walk from Christ Church Cathedral), a site rich in history and a great introduction to the city's past.
Continue your exploration with a visit to St. Patrick's Cathedral (a nine-minute walk from Dublin Castle), Ireland's largest cathedral, where you can admire its stunning architecture and learn about its historical significance.
Next, head to the Teeling Whiskey Distillery for a guided tour (seven-minute walk from St. Patrick's Cathedral). Here, you'll delve into the art of whiskey-making and enjoy a tasting of their award-winning spirits.
For dinner, make your way to The Church (15-minute walk or a short cab ride from Teeling Whiskey Distillery), a unique dining experience set in a beautifully restored 17th-century church.
End your first day in Dublin with the Literary Pub Crawl, an engaging and entertaining tour that takes you through the city's literary history while visiting some of its most famous pubs.
Day 2: Explore Dublin
Start your day with a tour of Kilmainham Gaol, one of Dublin’s most significant historic sites. The tour of the jail is a powerful experience, providing insight into Ireland's turbulent history, particularly the 1916 Easter Rising. Travel Tip: Tickets must be pre-booked online 30 days in advance. Set an alarm on your phone because tickets sell out within minutes.
After the tour, enjoy the scenic IMMA Garden Walk. This peaceful route offers a lovely stroll that leads you directly to the Guinness Storehouse (20-minute walk). Here, you can immerse yourself in the history of Ireland's most famous stout and enjoy a pint at the Gravity Bar, which offers panoramic views of Dublin.
For lunch, head to O'Neill's (15-minute walk from the Guinness Storehouse). On your way, make a point to walk through the Temple Bar area.
Next, take a walk through Trinity College (10-minute walk from O'Neill's). While you may choose to also do the Book of Kells if time permits, the campus itself is beautiful and well worth admiring.
Afterwards, visit the National Museum of Ireland - Archaeology (10-minute walk from Trinity College), where you can explore exhibits ranging from Bronze Age artifacts to Viking treasures. Don't miss the bog bodies—remarkably preserved human remains that offer a haunting glimpse into ancient Ireland.
Later in the afternoon, make your way to the Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum on the River Liffey (15-minute walk or a short taxi ride from the Archaeology Museum). This museum offers a unique perspective on the history of the Irish famine and emigration.
Before dinner, take a relaxing walk along the River Liffey, walk across Ha'penny Bridge, and take in the sights as you make your way to the GPO (General Post Office) on O'Connell Street (15-minute walk along the river). This historic building played a pivotal role in the 1916 Easter Rising and is an important landmark in Dublin.
To end your day, treat yourself to a meal at F.X. Buckley, a renowned steakhouse known for its exceptional cuts of meat and classic dining experience. This is the perfect place to end your day in Dublin, enjoying a delicious meal in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere.
Day 3: Journey to Kenmare and Explore Gleninchaquin Park
Start your day early by taking a taxi to Heuston Station in Dublin to catch a train to Cork. The train journey takes around 2.5 hours, giving you time to rest and catch up on sleep after the early wake-up call.
Once you arrive at Cork Station, take a taxi to Cork Airport, which is about a 10 to 15-minute drive away, to pick up your rental car.
With your car ready, drive to Kenmare, a charming little village in County Kerry that makes for the perfect base for exploring County Kerry and County Cork.
Grab a bite for lunch in one of Kenmare's delightful eateries, then take some time to explore the town's shops and attractions. Be sure to visit the Kenmare Stone Circle and Cromwell’s “Fairy” Bridge.
After exploring Kenmare, take a short drive to Gleninchaquin Park, where you can enjoy a walk along the Heritage Trail and see the abandoned famine cottages. This park offers stunning landscapes with waterfalls, lakes and mountains, making it a perfect spot to immerse yourself in Ireland's natural beauty.
Before returning to Kenmare, make a quick stop along the route at Uragh Stone Circle — a mystical megalithic site set against a dramatic backdrop of lakes and volcanic mountains, adding an extra layer of history to your day.
Return to Kenmare in the evening and enjoy dinner at Boxed Wood-Fired Pizza — a great way to mix up your meals so you don't get burnt out on Irish cuisine. Finish the day with a nightcap of Guinness at P.F. McCarthy’s, soaking in the relaxed atmosphere before calling it a night.
Day 4: Exploring the Beara Peninsula
Begin your day with a hearty breakfast at your hotel/B&B before setting off on a scenic drive around the Beara Peninsula, also known as the Ring of Beara. You'll be driving clockwise from Kenmare, offering stunning views and unique stops along the way.
Your first stop is at Lorge Chocolatier, where you can indulge in some locally made chocolate. This charming chocolatier is known for its artisanal creations, and it's a perfect place to pick up a sweet treat or souvenir.
A little further down the road, you'll reach Molly Gallivan's Cottage and Farm. This historic site offers a glimpse into rural Irish life, showcasing traditional farming methods and crafts. It’s a lovely spot to stretch your legs and learn about local history.
After leaving Molly Gallivan’s, you’ll drive through the Caha Pass and pass through Turner's Rock Tunnel, a striking rock-cut tunnel that adds a touch of adventure to your journey. This is also the point where you’ll cross from County Kerry into County Cork, marking a scenic and memorable transition on your drive.
Continue your drive along the peninsula, heading through the breathtaking Healy Pass. This winding mountain road offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape, making it one of the most scenic (and dangerous) routes in Ireland. Be sure to stop at the waterfall along the pass to take pictures and admire the natural beauty. After enjoying the waterfall, you’ll turn back and continue your journey along the Beara Peninsula.
After navigating the Healy Pass, you'll arrive in Castletownbere for lunch at Breen’s Lobster Bar. Known as the fishing capital of Ireland, Castletownbere is the perfect place to enjoy fresh seafood and soak in the bustling harbor atmosphere. After lunch, you can take a leisurely stroll around the town, perhaps stopping for a coffee or exploring the local shops.
Next, make your way to Dunboy Castle. (NOTE: This stop is optional, but it holds personal significance for me as my ancestors, the Sullivans, emigrated from Bear Island, which you can see from the nearby trail. The ruins of Dunboy Castle are steeped in history, and visiting them was a meaningful experience for me.)
After exploring the castle, head to Ballydonegan Beach for a relaxing walk along the water. This beach is known for its stunning views, cliffside walks and opportunities to collect seashells.
Before returning to Kenmare, stop in Allihies for the famous Irish pub, O'Neill's Bar and Restaurant. After a pint or quick bite, take a short drive to Eyeries, where you can admire the picturesque, colorful street lined with brightly painted houses—a perfect spot for a photo.
End your day back in Kenmare with dinner at Mulcahy's, a highly regarded restaurant in Ireland and listed in the Michelin Guide. Finish the evening with a treat from Kenmare Ice Cream, a delightful way to end a day full of exploration and scenic beauty.
Day 5: Journey to Galway with a Stop in Kilkee
Start your day with a hearty breakfast before a 2-hour drive from Kenmare to the Tarbert Ferry. The Tarbert Ferry operates on a regular timetable, with departure times typically every 30 minutes. It's a good idea to check the schedule in advance to plan your timing accordingly.
Once you arrive at Tarbert, board the ferry for a short, scenic crossing to Killimer. The ferry ride is a pleasant way to break up your journey and offers lovely views of the Shannon Estuary.
After disembarking in Killimer, continue your drive to Kilkee in County Clare, which takes about 45 minutes. In Kilkee, stop for a quick lunch at Diamond Rocks Café, a charming spot located near the starting point of the Kilkee Cliff Walk. You'll also find parking here for a small fee.
After lunch, enjoy the Kilkee Cliff Walk, a stunning coastal trail offering breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean and dramatic cliffs.
After your walk, it's time to drive to Galway. The drive from Kilkee to Galway takes about 2 hours and 15 minutes, and you’ll travel along the N67 and M18 roads.
Once you arrive in Galway, check into your hotel or B&B. You should reach Galway by around 3 p.m., giving you plenty of time to spend the afternoon exploring Galway City. Wander through the lively Latin Quarter, discover the local shops, and soak up the city’s vibrant atmosphere. For more specific Galway recommendations, check out my Galway blog.
In the evening, visit some of Galway’s iconic pubs, like Tig Choili, Tigh Neachtain. These pubs are famous for their traditional Irish music, warm atmosphere and excellent selection of drinks.
For dinner, head to The King's Head, a historic pub and restaurant in the heart of the city. Known for its hearty meals and lively ambiance, it’s the perfect place to wrap up your day in Galway. Don't forget to also save room for some fries at Pratai —a local favorite and the best fries you will ever consume.
Day 6: Exploring Inishmore and Clifden
Start your day with a hearty breakfast before driving to Rossaveel Harbour to catch the ferry to Inishmore Island, one of the Aran Islands. The ferry ride offers beautiful views of the Atlantic, setting the tone for a day of exploration. Note: If you are prone to seasickness, plan accordingly for the rough water conditions.
Upon arrival on Inishmore, rent electric bicycles — a convenient and eco-friendly way to explore the island, as cars are not permitted.
Begin your ride by heading counterclockwise around the island. Your first stop could be the Seal Colony, where you might spot seals basking on the rocks. Continue to Kilmurvey Beach, which is right next to Kilmurvey Craft Village, where you can step into the quant Tigh Nan Phaidi Cafe or explore the Wool and Craft Markets, offering a variety of locally made goods and sweaters.
Next, visit Dún Aonghasa, a prehistoric stone fort perched on the edge of a cliff, offering stunning views of the Atlantic. If time allows, consider a visit to the Wormhole, a natural rectangular pool carved into the rocks, famous among divers and adventurers.
After a day of exploring, take the ferry back to Rossaveel. From there, drive to Clifden, but instead of taking the main road, opt for the Old Bog Road. This road is steeped in local lore and is said to be haunted, adding a touch of mystery to your journey through the stark and beautiful landscape of Connemara.
Upon arrival in Clifden, check into your hotel or B&B. Spend some time walking around the charming village, exploring its shops and cafes. For dinner, enjoy quality seafood from Mitchell’s Seafood Restaurant, one of Ireland’s top seafood restaurants.
After dinner, take a drive along the Sky Road, one of Ireland's most scenic routes. Choose the Upper Sky Road for the most epic views, and be sure to stop at the viewing point to admire the sunset over the Atlantic Ocean. The panoramic views from here are breathtaking and offer a perfect way to end the day.
Day 7: Connemara National Park and Beyond
Start your day early with a hearty breakfast, then set off on a drive to Connemara National Park, which takes about 25 minutes from Clifden. Your goal is to hike Diamond Hill, one of the park's most popular trails. The hike is moderately challenging, with a well-marked path that leads you up to breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, including the Twelve Bens mountain range, the Atlantic Ocean and the vast expanse of Connemara’s rugged beauty. The summit of Diamond Hill reaches an elevation of 442 meters, offering panoramic views that make the effort well worth it.
After your hike, drive to the nearby village of Letterfrack (about 10 minutes away). This is a good spot to rest and enjoy a second breakfast if needed. Be sure to visit Books at One, a quaint bookshop that’s perfect for picking up a local read or a unique souvenir.
Next, drive to Kylemore Abbey, a stunning 19th-century castle nestled in the heart of Connemara. The Abbey is set against a backdrop of lush forests and tranquil lakes, and its walled Victorian gardens are a highlight. Take your time exploring the estate and learning about its rich history.
From Kylemore Abbey, continue your journey to the village of Leenane (about a 20-minute drive). Here, you’ll visit Killary Fjord, Ireland’s only fjord, where the mountains dramatically meet the sea. Enjoy lunch at the Misunderstood Heron, a popular food truck offering delicious local fare with stunning views of the fjord.
After lunch, visit the Killary Sheepdog Farm for an authentic Irish experience. Watch the highly trained sheepdogs in action as they herd sheep across the rugged landscape, and learn about the traditional farming practices that are still in use today.
On your way back to Clifden, take the scenic route through the Lough Inagh Valley. This valley is known for its serene beauty, with Lough Inagh nestled between the Twelve Bens and the Maumturk Mountains.
Make a quick stop at Pine Island, a picturesque spot perfect for a photo or a moment of reflection.
Return to Clifden in the afternoon with time to explore the village, do some shopping, or simply relax and soak in the atmosphere. For dinner, stop by a pub for some traditional Irish fare and live music.
End your day with a sunset stroll to Clifden Castle. The ruins of this 19th-century castle offer a glimpse into the past, and the walk there is peaceful and scenic. After exploring the castle and enjoying the sunset, head back to your lodging to rest and reflect on a day full of adventure and discovery.
Day 8: Final Day in Ireland - A Coastal Adventure and Farewell
Start your last day in Ireland by driving to Dogs Bay Beach, one of the most picturesque beaches in Ireland, known for its unique horseshoe shape and white sand. It’s the perfect spot for a peaceful walk or simply to relax and enjoy the view.
Continue your journey by taking the coastal route back towards Galway. Your first stop will be in Roundstone, a charming village known for its vibrant arts community and breathtaking views of the Atlantic. After exploring Roundstone, head to Joyce's Craft Shop in Recess, where you can browse a selection of locally made crafts and souvenirs.
Next, visit the Spiddal Craft Village, where you can shop for traditional Irish crafts, including pottery, jewelry and textiles. This is a great place to pick up any last-minute gifts or mementos from your trip.
Arriving in Galway, head to Salthill for lunch. Choose a spot with views of Galway Bay to enjoy your meal while soaking in the serene coastal scenery. Salthill offers a variety of dining options, so you can pick something that suits your taste.
After lunch, drive the motorway back to Dublin. The journey takes about 2.5 hours. Upon arrival, return your rental car at Dublin Airport and check into one of the nearby airport hotels. Drop off your bags and freshen up before taking a quick taxi ride to Howth.
In Howth, take a leisurely walk around the picturesque village, visit the lighthouse and enjoy the stunning coastal views. For dinner, choose a local seafood restaurant and savor your last meal in Ireland, accompanied by one final pint of Guinness.
Day 9: Farewell to Ireland
Reflect on your amazing journey through Ireland as you prepare for the flight back home. As your plane takes off, you'll leave behind the stunning landscapes, rich history and warm hospitality of Ireland, carrying with you memories of an unforgettable adventure.
Need to know
This itinerary was carefully curated to balance the thrill of discovering new places with the comfort of revisiting familiar ones, ensuring that both my husband and I could experience the best of Ireland. We prioritized the rugged beauty of the western coast, with its diverse landscapes and hidden gems, steering clear of the more crowded, well-known tourist spots, especially given the high-tourism season during the summer months. By choosing off-the-beaten-path destinations, we avoided the hustle and bustle of popular sites, allowing us to enjoy Ireland's natural beauty in a more peaceful and authentic way. Having experienced both the famous attractions and these lesser-known treasures, I can confidently say that the places we explored on this trip were just as good, if not better, than many of the well-known recommendations you often find online.
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This itinerary is part of our ongoing series on travel to Ireland. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out Caitlin Comiskey's itinerary, Road Tripping Across Ireland