1 Week in Sardinia, Italy’s Island Gem

In late September, the summer crowds have fizzled yet the air and water temps are still very pleasant. In my opinion it’s the best time of year to visit Sardegna.

EasyJet and RyanAir fly from many European airports to the two main cities in Sardegna - Olbia (North) and Cagliari (South). Renting a car is a must to fully explore all that the island has to offer and driving there is totally manageable. This itinerary will start in the North and end in the South, but you can always flip it based on flights that work for your schedule, and extend in each region if your timeline allows.

After picking up your car at the Olbia airport, enjoy a leisurely drive along Costa Smeralda, the region on the Northeastern coast. Stop off at a few places to get your first glimpses of the emerald sea, have a bite to eat and enjoy la dolce vita. Noteworthy spots include: Spiaggia del Principe, Spiaggia del Romazzino, Spiaggia di Liscia Ruja, Cala di Volpe, Porto Cervo and Poltu Quatu.

You can choose accommodation somewhere along Costa Smeralda or head to Palau, where you’ll depart for Maddalena tomorrow.

The archipelago of La Maddalena is easily the star of the show in Sardegna. It is made up of 62 islands and sits just off the Costa Smeralda. All of the islands and pristine beaches are only accessible by boat, which makes them relatively untouched. There are many tours that operate out of the Port of Palau and offer half or full day excursions on the crystal clear waters.

After a beautiful day in nature, drive 30km west to the Capo Testa area. After checking into your accommodations, head to Pema Ristorante for a very memorable meal. (Dish rec: Tortello di Zucca aka Pumpkin Tortelloni - I still daydream about this dish a year later.)

Time to make your way South. This will be the longest driving day (about 6 hrs. total) but the scenery is breathtaking; you will frequently find yourself pulling over on the side of the road for picture-perfect moments.

If your accommodations offer complimentary breakfast, you can enjoy it before getting on the road. Otherwise, you can stop at a cafe once you arrive to Sassari in about two hours. Walk around to explore the historic churches, town squares and hidden alleyways. Act like a local and enjoy an espresso, Ichnuso (Sardinian beer) or Coca Cola at Cafe Giordano in Piazza d’Italia before getting back on the road.

Alghero is just 30 mins. past Sassari and is known for its cobblestone streets surrounded by ancient walls from the 16th century. Cathedrals, watch towers and a pleasant outdoor lunch at a trattoria can all be had here.

You should then have about 3.5 hrs. left on your drive to the Sant’Antioco area. I recommend staying there for the next few nights as a home base, with nearby and easy day trips.

Insider Tip: You will spend the first few hours driving through nearly deserted mountains and fields. It was one of my favorite parts of the trip! It feels like you’re in another world with all of the beautiful terrain, lush greenery and goats and sheep roaming freely. Be sure to fill up your gas tank before you depart Capo Testa.

After all of the driving yesterday, take the day to explore all of the incredible beaches that Sant’Antioco has to offer. After a quick drive over the bridge, you’ll be on a smaller island. You can plan out beaches that are 5-10 minutes apart, making it easy to explore at leisure. Some of my favorite spiagge (beaches):

• Spiaggia Cala Lunga

• Cala Grotta

• Cala Sapone

• Spiaggia di Maladroxia

There are plenty of casual beach bars serving light fare and beverages, however, if you’d like to venture into the main town square for lunch, I suggest I Due Fratelli, a fantastic seafood restaurant on the waterfront. Afterwards, you can have a scoop of gelato next door at Gelateria La Laguna.

After a shower and a nap back at your accommodations, head over to Agriturismo Agrifoglio for dinner (and go hungry). This independently owned farm with some guest rooms is no-frills and they don’t really speak English (no problem as the menu is fixed). This is true farm-to-table, Italian nonna-style cooking and service. They will serve you MANY antipasti, pasta, meats and desserts. I guarantee you will be shocked at the quality and portions for the price of $40.

If you’d like another relaxing day on the water, feel free to explore more beaches around Sant’Antioco that you didn’t get to yesterday. If you’d like to adventure, hop back in the car for a scenic drive along SP83 which has some of the most stunning views I’ve experienced on my travels.

I recommend driving one-hour to Portixeddu to begin the day, and working your way back south. The SP83 route is the stretch from Portixeddu to Fontanamare, and then you will run into SS126, the main highway back to Sant’Antioco.

• Spiaggia di Cala Domestica: Another day, another beautiful beach.

• Grotta Azzurra: Take a boat guide into the blue grotto to explore the cave and cliffs.

• Porto Flavia: This port was built back in 1925 in which mining tunnels were used for zinc transportation. It is directly in the cliff and is considered an engineering masterpiece. Note that it is only viewable and accessible by boat. A two-hour tour is only $10 for adults and $6.50 for kids, making it well worth a stop.

• Spiaggia di Masua: At this beach you can rent beach lounge chairs, paddle boats or kayaks.

• Nebida: several hiking trails around this former mining village with ancient cliffs and rocks.

• Fontanamare: A vast, beautiful beach to admire views from above

SP71 is another incredible curvy cliff-side drive that offers uninterrupted mountains, greenery and ocean views. Being that you will start from near Sant’Antioco, this scenic route (“Strada Panoramica”) begins just before Teulada and ends just past Chia.

To begin: Travel on SS195 and just before the actual town center of Teulada you will see a sign to turn right onto SP71. I have listed some of my favorite stops along the drive. However, you can’t go wrong anywhere you choose to admire the views.

• Spiaggia di Tuerredda: Here you can rent beach lounge chairs or enjoy a bite to eat and a refreshing beverage at Poseidon/Tuerredda Beach Club.

• Capo Spartivento lighthouse: An active lighthouse at the southernmost tip of Sardegna

• Spiaggia di Cala Cipolla: Small, white-sand beach, great for snorkeling and views of the lighthouse.

• Spiaggia Su Giudeu: Popular for surfing and scuba diving, also has flamingos and nearby lagoons.

• Spiaggia di Chia Sa Colonia: Fine peachy sand, clear waters and chairs and umbrellas for rent.

About 20-minutes after you finish the SP71 stretch you will come upon the Nora Archaeological sites. You can explore the remains of the ancient Phoenician and Roman city that was built in the 8th century ! (BC) This was one of my favorite stops in Sardegna.

I suggest spending the evening at a hotel around Pula or in Cagliari so that you can explore Cagliari all day tomorrow.

Insider Tip: Before you leave the island, be sure to try “Fregola”, a tasty Sardinian pasta made from hard durum wheat flour - rolled, sun-dried and toasted. It is a unique and delicious dish that you can only get there.

There is enough to do and see in Cagliari that warrants a whole day and evening, but if you must, fly out in the afternoon to get to your final destination.

• Explore Castello historic district at the top of the hill - filled with alleys, watch towers, and buildings from 8th century BC

• Visit churches including the Cathedral di Santa Maria

• Stroll through local markets

• Walk through the National Archeological Museum & Palazzo di Citta

• Enjoy a sunset drink on the Terrazza Umberto