Beignets and Blues: 5 Days in the Big Easy

DROP YOUR BAGS AND START WANDERING

I like to arrive early enough to get to my hotel, leave my bags if I can’t get early check-in, and grab lunch. A ride from the airport to the French Quarter takes about 25 minutes and a rental car is not needed in this highly walkable town.

A great way to begin a culinary tour of New Orleans is lunch at the famous Napoleon House. Dining in this more than 200-year-old landmark certainly sets the mood for a trip. The lighting, weathered walls, aged wood bar, and delicious food are a veritable time machine. My husband and I split an order of red beans and rice and a muffuletta sandwich. Paired with a refreshing Pimm’s cup, this was the perfect New Orleans lunch. Be forewarned, Napoleon House is walk-in only, so be prepared to queue. We waited about 30 minutes.

EXPLORE THE FRENCH QUARTER

Luckily, this great food city is also very walkable. Spend the afternoon wandering around the shops and galleries of the French Quarter.

Jackson Square is filled with artists selling their wares and musicians drawing dancing crowds. Visitors can also tour the iconic St. Louis Cathedral.

The French Quarter is filled with interesting shops - antique stores, art galleries, voodoo shops, costume and mask stores, and so much more.

Looking for an antique cane sword or old coins? Check out the collectibles at James H. Cohen and Sons.

Do you need to find a sparkly and dramatic masquerade mask for the kids you left at home with Grandma? I love Maskarade, where you can find a wide variety of handmade masks. You can learn more about the artists on the shop’s website.

If you love the smell of old books, check out Faulkner House Books, which sells new and used books, rare and first editions, and, of course, works by Faulkner and other Southern authors. The store was originally an apartment in which the shop’s namesake lived in 1925.

DINNER AND DRINKS

End your day at one of the many delicious restaurants in the French Quarter. Brennan’s is a landmark establishment. Don’t skip the Bananas Foster, which was invented there in the early 1950s.

If you are only looking for small bites and fancy cocktails, head to Arnaud’s French 75 Bar. An expertly crafted French 75 or Sazerac at this James Beard Award-winning bar is the perfect end to a great first day in New Orleans.

FAMOUS FRIED CHICKEN

Start your day with a quest to taste world-famous fried chicken in the historic Tremé neighborhood at Willie Mae’s Scotch House. This New Orleans institution has two locations, but I enjoy going to the original one that opened in 1957. People from all over the world wait in a line that can take over an hour to enjoy the juicy, perfectly seasoned fried chicken and other soul food dishes such as fried okra and red beans and rice. This no-reservation spot opens at 11 am and the line starts forming before then, but your patience will pay off.

GARDEN DISTRICT WALKING TOUR

Walk off your early lunch with a walking tour of the lovely Garden District. I really enjoyed our tour with Two Chicks Walking Tours. Our knowledgeable, funny and friendly guide taught us about New Orleans history, architecture, celebrity homes and movie and TV filming locations.

ENJOY CLASSIC NEW ORLEANS JAZZ

No trip to New Orleans is complete without taking in a show at the historic and revered Preservation Hall. The musicians are masters, and their concerts are truly joyful. I recommend making reservations ahead of time because this intimate and unique musical experience is in a tiny venue with close-quarters seating and some tickets are for standing space.

DINNER IN A DIVE BAR

There are good po'boys all over New Orleans, but Killer Poboys are the best I’ve had there. There are two locations, but I have only been to the one in the back of the Erin Rose bar. The bar is what I’d call a dive bar, in the best way. When you enter Erin Rose, you will think you are not in the right place. But have faith and head to the very back of the bar where you’ll find an order counter, one table, and a ledge with some stools. It is tiny and they pretty much just offer po’boys, but it is a great place for a late night meal.

Start your day early with beignets and coffee at another iconic New Orleans restaurant, Café du Monde. It opens at 7:15 am and the earlier you go, the lesser the crowd.

MARDI GRAS WORLD

After a leisurely breakfast, catch a free shuttle to Mardi Gras World, where you will see how Mardi Gras parade floats and props are made. The Mardi Gras World shuttle has 10 stops, including one right at Café du Monde. Visitors just need to call the shuttle for a pick up. Self-guided tours take about one hour.

WWII MUSEUM

Switch gears from the celebration and joy of Mardi Gras to the weightiness and significance of The National WWII Museum. Get your tickets in advance and take a look at the museum's recommended itineraries for however long you wish to explore. There are plenty of interesting exhibits to fill an afternoon and longer.

MID-AFTERNOON OYSTERS

My husband loves oysters for an afternoon snack in New Orleans. While many tourists flock to Acme Oyster House in the French Quarter for a briny fix, I highly recommend going, instead, across the street to Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar. It is less crowded and the food is even better, in my humble opinion. Try the chargrilled oysters, you won’t be disappointed.

SEE THE SPOOKY SIDE OF NEW ORLEANS

One way to spend your last day in New Orleans is to take a ghost tour. There are many ghost and haunted tours in New Orleans. My favorite has been the French Quarter Ghosts and Legends Tour with Haunted History Tours. They offer these during the day and at night, as well as a variety of other ghoulish tours.

A NIGHT OF LIVE MUSIC

The music scene is special in New Orleans. It seems like you can see skilled artists of any genre at any time in that city. Make the short trek to Frenchmen Street for a night of live music. I love Apple Barrel for blues and jazz. It is a lively, local venue that is cash only and teeny-tiny, which makes for a truly intimate music experience. The Blue Nile is another great place for jazz, blues, funk, soul and brass band music.

While in the Frenchmen Street area, check out the Frenchmen Art Bazaar, a nightly outdoor shopping experience where unique artists sell their wares.

If you end up looking for late night food, you should try Dat Dog. In addition to its variety of yummy specialty hot dogs, Dat Dog also has a fun atmosphere and fantastic balcony.

Squeeze every minute out of your time in New Orleans. If you have time before your departure, take an early morning walk in the French Quarter, before the hustle and bustle of the day begins. Watch shopkeepers clean off the sidewalks and ready their stores for the day.

WANDER WITH A COFFEE

Stop by Envie Espresso Bar & Cafe for a delicious, caffeinated start to your day.

OPEN AIR MARKET

Walk a block down to the French Market to pick up last-minute souvenirs. Operating for over 200 years, this open-air market has a flea market, farmers market, over 50 artisans and food stands.

Spend some time in Dutch Alley, a pedestrian plaza that hosts an artists' co-op, historic statues and performances. You can also find the New Orleans Jazz National Historic Park. Like nearly all national parks, your child can earn a junior ranger badge at its visitor center, if you decide to bring your kids to New Orleans with you someday.