How to Tackle the Cote D’Azur

There are several ways to arrive in Nice, France. I drove about five hours from Bellagio, Italy, which was surprisingly easy. Alternatively, you can fly into Nice Airport, take a train from another city or even arrive by boat. Whether you choose to come by train or plane, getting to your hotel is simple — just hop in a taxi or Uber with your bags.

We checked into our hotel, Le Méridien Nice, a four-star property located along the Promenade des Anglais. The location was fantastic — close to excellent shopping, a short walk to Old Town and directly across from the beach. Once we settled in, we enjoyed dinner on the hotel’s rooftop as the sun set, creating a perfect atmosphere.

After dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the Promenade to stretch our legs and ensure we were tired enough for a good night's sleep. The path beside the water buzzes with energy at all hours, making it an inviting place to wander!

The early bird catches the worm — or, more fittingly, the flower. Before hitting the road to Antibes, take some time in the quiet of the morning with a cup of café au lait and head straight to the Flower Market, Marché aux Fleurs. This vibrant market, located at Cours Saleya, is a feast for the senses, offering a delightful mix of flowers, fruits and vegetables. The colors are spectacular, the atmosphere is buzzing with locals and tourists alike and the prices are incredibly reasonable. It’s open Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 6 am to 5:30 pm; Wednesday and Saturday from 6:30 am to 6:30 pm; and Sunday from 6:30 am to 1:30 pm. The market is closed on Mondays.

After soaking in the sights and scents, it’s about a one-hour drive to Antibes. Alternatively, you can take the train from Nice Ville station, which is about a 20–30 minute ride. Upon arriving in Antibes, it’s a pleasant 15-minute walk to the Old Town, Vieil Antibes, where you can enjoy the shops along the way.

We found parking at a metered spot along the marina by Port Vauban, where we marveled at the impressive yachts docked in their slips. Strolling through the charming streets, we eventually discovered the Marché Provençal — by far the best food market I’ve ever visited. It was an incredible feast for the senses, with the intoxicating aroma of ripe cheeses and fresh fruits filling the air. I couldn’t resist purchasing bulk spices, beautiful handmade tablecloths and some delicious treats!

After walking around with our pastries and coffee from Nomads (3 Rue Sade), a definite faux pas in France, we headed toward the promenade to soak up the sun and watch people relax on the beach. Antibes offers so much to do, from the Picasso Museum to strolling the scenic ramparts (Antibes Ramparts). We could have easily spent the entire day exploring!

However, in need of a rest day, we made our way to one of the best private beach clubs I’ve ever experienced: Plage Keller. With its stunning blue water, white sand and floating docks, along with the spectacular restaurant Le César, it was the perfect getaway. I highly recommend asking your hotel concierge to assist with reservations. They advised us to arrive no later than 12 pm to secure our chairs. We made a lunch reservation and chose beachside seating to keep our sunbathing spots intact. This full-service beach club offers a level of luxury you won’t find in the United States, with incredible service that made for a wonderful day in the protected swimming area. While it was a splurge — between chair rentals, an umbrella, towels and food and drink — every penny was worth it.

After our relaxing day at the beach, we drove back to Antibes to prepare for dinner at the Michelin-starred Le Chantecler (Le Chantecler) at the historic Negresco Hotel (Hotel Negresco). Three out of five of us opted for the five-course tasting menu, which was incredibly innovative and beyond compare. Chef Virginie Basselot uses local ingredients, preparing them in unique and alluring ways. This was undoubtedly a highlight of our culinary journey!

After breakfast, we set off by car to the interior town of Grasse, the Perfume Capital of the World. The drive takes about an hour and twenty minutes. If you don’t have access to a car, you can easily take the train from Nice Ville, which takes about 40 minutes.

We had an appointment at Galimard Perfumerie, where we learned to create our own fragrances. The 90-minute session was incredibly fun! We discovered how to work with the "organ of scents," identifying base notes, middle notes (or heart notes) and top notes, and how to blend them to craft a scent that felt just right. At the end of the session, each of us received a glass bottle of our customized perfume, complete with a personalized label!

Afterward, we enjoyed lunch at the beautiful hilltop restaurant Le Comptoir 233. The views were stunning and the food was exactly as one would imagine — light, fresh and delicious.

Following lunch, we drove back toward Nice but decided to stop in Mougins, a remarkable medieval hill town known for its surrounding forests, cypress trees, artist galleries, cobblestone streets and delightful shops. This is another place where Picasso is said to have lived and worked — a village not to be missed!

We then spent the remainder of the day at Galeries Lafayette, where we enjoyed the July sales and admired the stunning clothing.

For dinner, we walked to Old Town, where we found a restaurant featuring all the dishes we were eager to try! Old Town boasts about 100-150 dining options, ranging from casual to upscale. The vibrant atmosphere, with its Baroque architecture, cobblestone alleys and the lively hum of people chatting and laughing, made for a delightful dining experience.

After breakfast, we walked to Nice Ville train station to explore Monaco for the day. The train ride took about 35 minutes, speeding along the coast as we watched colorful towns and their spectacular beaches pass by.

Upon arriving in Monaco, we were all stunned by the jaw-dropping beauty of this tiny country. We landed at the harbor, surrounded by some of the world’s most incredible yachts — truly a playground for the ultra-wealthy. It was so much fun to see these stunning pieces of floating real estate!

From the marina, we made our way to the Prince of Monaco’s Private Car Museum. This might be one of the best car collections we've ever seen. My husband, a car enthusiast, was genuinely impressed by the vastness of the collection, which spans from the dawn of the automobile to the present. The highlight was the Ferrari F1 car that won the Monaco Grand Prix in spring 2024, driven by Charles Leclerc, a native of Monaco. The tour took us about an hour, though not everyone would spend that much time there.

After the museum, we walked to the famous Casino de Monte Carlo, marveling at the opulence of the entire venue. The substantial security personnel, dressed to the nines, checked bags at the entrance, while the casino floor buzzed with excitement. To play or even enter the gaming area, you must present your passport and be at least 18 years old. Minors are allowed in the atrium until 2 pm and can have lunch at the Salon Rose. Be sure to review the dress code and other guidelines before your visit. With Ferraris, Maseratis and other luxury vehicles parked outside, this is a spectacular place to sit and watch the scene unfold.

Once we captured some photos, we walked to the iconic Grand Prix hairpin turn in front of the Fairmont Hotel (Fairmont).

After taking some pictures, we headed into the hotel for lunch at Amu Monte Carlo. The service was excellent, and the views were outstanding.

After lunch, we called an Uber and made our way to the other side of the country to enjoy the hilltop vista and visit the Prince’s Palace. We chose not to tour the inside of the palace but enjoyed the vibrant atmosphere and stunning views of the marina and the city. Watching the changing of the guard was a highlight of our visit.

Finally, we walked back to the train station — one of the most beautiful stations I’ve ever seen — and made our way back to Nice for dinner near our hotel.

One our last day in Nice, we opted for another beach rest day and spent the day at Paloma Beach, the private beach club on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferret. A glorious beach in a wild cove, this location has been there since 1948, and it was by far the best beach we enjoyed the entire trip. The water was calm and so clear. The service and the views were stunning, and there was an awesome stone walkway called Sentier du Littoral.

This coastal path, nearly 3.5 miles long, provides incredible views of the Mediterranean Sea and the surrounding cliffs, making it a popular spot for walkers and nature lovers. Again, my suggestion is to ask the hotel to make your reservations – and make them far in advance for any private beach club in season. These locations are in high demand, despite the fact that the day there costs quite a bit.