Pesaro & Urbino, Italy's Secret Gems

Pesaro

Go to the beach! The sand is white and the gentle waters clear, blue and warm. Every hotel has a lido establishment from which you can rent lounge chairs and umbrellas for the day, as well as use the dressing rooms and showers. And the lido's bar serves light meals, snacks and drinks. Stroll along the lungomare, the seaside promenade, listening to the sound of the waves and enjoying the fresh air.

Stop midway to admire the Arnaldo Pomodoro sphere sculpture, (la palla di pomodoro), the symbol of Pesaro.

Just behind the pomodoro is the Gelateria Germano Mare, the best gelato in town. Grab a seat with a view of the sea or continue your stroll, gelato in hand.

You give your order by indicating cup or cone, the size based on the price and finally your chosen flavors. My favorites are nocciola and caffe. It gets busy but they have a great system!

Head into the centro storico, or the old town center. The cobblestoned streets are lined with elegant boutiques with many well-known design names like Max Mara and Gucci, all housed in beautiful ancient buildings, perfect for window shopping or to treat yourself. The magnificent Palazzo Ducale lines one side of the main Piazza Principale and the cafés on the piazza are prime spots for people watching during the nightly passeggiata when the entire town comes out to show their stuff.

The Civic Museum is located inside the Palazzo Ducale and hosts a variety of artworks, sculptures, ceramics and archaeological finds. Definitely worth a visit.

Visit the birthplace of composer Gioachino Rossini, which has been transformed into a museum dedicated to his life and works and contains his personal belongings, original manuscripts and artifacts. Every August, Pesaro attracts many music lovers who come to hear the works of this famous composer in his hometown during the annual Rossini opera festival.

Don’t miss the elegant Teatro Rossini opera house.

Ride a bike! The aptly named Strada Panoramica starts at the northern end of the Pesaro beach and gently climbs up into the natural park of Monte San Bartolo. The lovely scent of the bright yellow scotch broom (ginestra, in Italian) along the road will delight you.

Enjoy spectacular views of the Adriatic and check out the adorable village of Fiorenzuola di Focara along the way. Descend down a winding road into the beach town of Gabicce Mare. Don’t miss the famous Cicli Tonti bike shop in nearby Cattolica.

Have an al fresco lunch at one of the many beachside restaurants before heading back to Pesaro.

Urbino

The magnificent Palazzo Ducale is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most important Renaissance buildings in Italy. In medieval times it had been the residence of the Montefeltro family, who were influential patrons of the arts. The palace features exquisite architecture and houses the National Gallery of the Marche, which displays a remarkable collection from the 13th to the 17th century, including paintings by Piero della Francesca and Rafael, and the amazing intaglio Duke’s library.

The Oratorio di San Giovanni Battista is a small chapel near the Palace, famous for Salimbene’s exquisite frescoes depicting scenes of the life of Saint John the Baptist. The Renaissance painter Rafael was from Urbino and his home is now open to the public for visits. The museum displays reproductions of his art and provides insights into his life and artistic career.

Shop for ceramics at the many artisanal workshops scattered throughout the city. Some of the patterns date from the middle ages and the Renaissance originals, called maiolica, can be seen in the National Gallery collection.

Have lunch at a local agriturismo to learn how specialty cheeses and olive oil are produced from start to finish. Join a truffle hunt and enjoy some tagliatelle con tartufo al fresco.

Explore the Gola di Furlo, a natural reserve nestled between Pesaro and Urbino.

Hike along the river gorge on the ancient Roman road, the Via Flaminia. You may see bald eagles or wild boar along the way.

Visit a local winery and take a guided tour of the vineyards, learning about the winemaking process and the region's grape varieties, including Verdicchio, Rosso Conero and Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, accompanied by local cheese and charcuterie.

Pesaro

Trattoria Da Sante - Fresh seafood is what is served here making it a favorite with the locals. Try the mixed seafood appetizer of clams, mussels, marinated anchovies, baby snails and tender squid. Next go for the maccheroni with cannochie, a special type of shrimp. The feast continues with mixed grilled fish accompanied by a lightly sparkling local Verdicchio wine and finally dessert of refreshing lemon sorbetto. Casual, affordable and delicious.

Ristorante Lo Scudiero - Located in the former stables of the Palazzo Baldazzini, this elegant and atmospheric restaurant takes the best from the sea and the mountains to offer a creative and innovative cuisine that has Sicilian roots. They offer several tasting menus featuring a sampling of their best dishes.

Urbino

Piadinaria L’Acquillone - Piadine and cresce are specialty sandwiches originating in nearby Romagna which you will find everywhere in Le Marche. They are a type of flat bread cooked on a griddle and filled with all sorts of delicious things like mortadella, squaquarone cheese, arugula, tomatoes and other fresh vegetables. The best street food to be had in the region.

Portanova Ristorante - This delightful new restaurant in the center of Urbino offers elegant, clean lines, set in a room with historic stone arches and an open kitchen. The refined cuisine is Italian, utilizing a mix of the best meat and seafood (mare e monte) dishes in interesting ways. The service is warm and hospitable. A real treat.