Your Guide to the "Mother City": A Winter Week in Cape Town

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Advisor - Ashten Waks
Curated By

Ashten Waks

  • Active Travel

  • Boutique Travel

  • City Travel

  • Food & Wine

  • Honeymoons

  • Cape Town

  • South Africa

  • Local Culture

  • Local Food

  • Sightseeing

An aerial view of the beach & the mountains during daytime.
Curator’s statement

With Table Mountain and the famous Camps Bay to the North, the Cape of Good Hope to the South, and the Cape Winelands to the East, Cape Town will delight the most varied of vacationers. Outdoor enthusiasts will relish in the world-class hiking up the sandstone cliffs of Table Mountain and Lion's Head. Naturalists will lose themselves in the over 1,100 species of indigenous plants covering the hillsides of the Cape Point Nature Reserve. History buffs will walk in awe along the same hallways and cells that Nelson Mandela occupied at Robben Island. Sun-worshipers will bask in the warmth of the bays, while surfers catch the most epic of waves. Gourmands will never exhaust of the countless dining options, featuring Afrikaans, Malay, British, and Dutch influences.

Are you feeling convinced yet!?

Many think of this waterfront locale as a summertime destination. But one of my FAVORITE things about Cape Town is how incredible it is year-round. With its typically sunny, Mediterranean climate, the Mother City should be on your travel itinerary 365 days a year! Though if you're intimidated about planning a winter-time trip to this otherwise seaside, South African city, this itinerary is for you. Just remember, Cape Town is in the southern hemisphere, so their winter falls between June - September -- just in the nick of time for our American summer breaks!

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Day 1: Cruise into Cape Town

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You'll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport mid-day, where you'll be greeted by a flurry of languages and cultures. Although some may recommend a rental car from the airport, I personally find the streets of Cape Town challenging to navigate. Plus, ride shares are very inexpensive and easy to access throughout the city for the duration of your stay. If you'd like to arrange for a driver from the airport to your hotel, my preferred international transfer company is Welcome Pickups, and they have plenty of drivers awaiting you in the Mother City.

Check into the hotel of your choice, rid yourself of your luggage, and head towards the water. The Victoria & Alfred (V&A) Waterfront is an iconic, mixed-use destination and working harbor nestled along the sea and with remarkable views of the city beyond. You'll need to fill your belly before beginning your explorations, so stop by the newly opened Time Out Market Cape Town for lunch. There are 13 individual kitchens within the market, but I'd check out How Bao Now, whose buns have been wowing diners down the road at the Old Biscuit Mill for years.

Although you could easily get lost in the 22 heritage sites and over 400 retail shops scattered along the V&A Waterfront, you cannot leave this neighborhood without at least a quick visit to the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA). This museum is housed in the stunning Grain Silo building and features the world's largest collection of art from the African continent. The exhibits are seriously COOL -- even my museum avoiding husband loved it. Bonus: If you happen to encounter rainy weather, this is a fantastic way to spend the afternoon.

As the winter sun begins to set over the water, make your way next door to the Silo Rooftop for a drink paired with 360-degree views of the city. Cape Town is a gin city, so make sure to try their signature Rose Ginvino cocktail.

Finally, end your day at the Pot Luck Club. This intimate Cantonese American restaurant has a rotating menu of bold small plates. A few best-sellers remain on the menu year-round...you can't go wrong with the seared tuna with tom yum broth and tamarind sambal!

I'm sleepy just thinking about this day...Tuck in at your hotel. So much more of the city awaits tomorrow.

Day 2: Foodie-Friendly Fun

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Enjoy a leisurely morning at Origin Coffee Roasters in De Waterkant. They offer over 50 different unique roasts and have trained many of the best baristas in the city. I cannot stop by without a pasteis de nata, a Portuguese-inspired milk tart lining bakery shelves throughout South Africa. But don't fill up too much, as food is the theme for today.

Just a few blocks away, you'll meet Cape Town Culinary Tours at 12:00PM to begin your Cape Town Essentials Tour. With their expert local guides, you'll sample African, Malay, and British delicacies -- all reflecting the dominant influences in South Africa's cuisine. I was blown away by the Biboti at Charles Cafe, and even more impressed that they offered us our own spice packets to recreate the dish at home! Beyond educating your taste buds, you'll also learn the history of the historic Bo Kaap and De Waterkant precincts. Don't forget your camera; Bo Kaap is the charming neighborhood teaming with colorful houses that you'll definitely want to capture as you meander by.

Once the tour concludes, you'll need a break from all that walking! Hop in an Uber to the Leopard Bar at the 12 Apostles Hotel. Enjoy your sundowners with live music and unobstructed views of the ocean. The views are so good that you may even catch a glimpse of blue whale pods as they make their winter migration.

Today's final stop is dinner at the eccentric Kloof Street House, located in a beautiful Victorian mansion along the vibrant Kloof Street. If weather permits, snag a table in the cozy gardens. Otherwise, snuggle up along the candlelit tables of their in-door dining room. As an oyster lover, I think their selection and preparation is among the best. And goat cheese lovers will be awestruck by the Beetroot and Goat Cheese Salad. If, after a day filled with eating, you still have a little room to spare, their salted caramel cheesecake is dusted with caramel-flavored popcorn. How could you resist?!

Day 3: All Trails Lead to Table Mountain

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Indulge in your hotel's breakfast spread -- you'll need energy to tackle today's adventures! If you've seen photos of Cape Town, you've likely noticed the imposing Table Mountain occupying the background. Table Mountain has certainly earned its place on the New Seven Wonders of the World, with its diverse flora and fauna and picturesque views of the city below. No trip to Cape Town is complete without some exploration of this spectacular site.

Weather-permitting, I suggest a hike along one of Table Mountain's many trails. My top pick is the moderately difficult Skeleton Gorge Trail, which takes approximately three hours to complete. This is my choice because it begins at Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden, which is acclaimed as one of the greatest botanic gardens in the world. If, however, you're looking for something less strenuous with the same views, consider the boardwalks from the Upper Cable Station to Skeleton Gorge instead. An excellent guide to the most popular Table Mountain Hikes can be found here. For those who want to experience Table Mountain without the sweat, or who don't want to dedicate a full half-day to its exploration, you can also take the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway all the way to the top.

From one Cape Town tradition to another, you'll spend lunch time over afternoon tea at the Mountain Nelson, affectionately referred to as "The Nellie" or the "Pink Lady". Their high tea, served at 12pm and 3pm, is nothing short of iconic. In addition to towers and towers of sweet and savory treats, you'll be provided with a tea sommelier, who will help you identify your perfect pairings. Roiboos is an important part of the South African biome, so I highly recommend selecting at least one Roiboos-based tea!

Spend the remainder of your afternoon at leisure. If the sun is still shining, take a dip in your hotel pool or set up shop at a nearby beach. Either way, you've earned some rest after this morning's hike. Don't fall asleep, though, dinner tonight is at Grub & Vine (https://grubandvine.co.za/). This refined bistro contains numerous dining rooms and bar spaces, each with a unique decor and vibe. Wherever you sit, get yourself their ostrich filet. Although it sounds exotic, it tastes like the perfect filet of beef and was truly one of my favorite meals in Africa!

Right next door, you'll find The Gin Bar (https://www.theginbar.co.za/), a secret bar hidden behind a chocolate cafe. This local favorite serves over 100 gins, 80 of which are distilled in South Africa. Even if you don't fancy yourself a gin drinker, I know their exceptional mixologists will find something to meet your tastes. This spot is worth giving up that extra hour or two of sleep!

Day 4: Cape of Good Hope (-ing for Sunshine)

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Have you ever thought about what it would be like to stand and look out over the edge of the world? If yes, lace up your walking shoes because today's exploration of the greater Cape Peninsula will lead you to just that!

The Cape Peninsula refers to the gorgeous peninsula located at the southwestern-most point of the African continent. Within its confines, you'll find some of the world's greatest biodiversity, the most serene of national parks, and quaint Victorian-style towns. You'll also take in the famous, sea-loving penguins of Boulders Beach and catch a funicular up to the vistas of the historic Cape Point lighthouse. How will you accomplish this all in one day, you ask? While you could certainly rent a car and take a self-guided tour, I would recommend a guided tour to maximize your time and relaxation. At Fora, we partner with Project Expedition, who offer a reasonably priced, private tour of the Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point. Your guide will collect you from your hotel in the morning and spend nine to ten hours transporting you to the most majestic spots along the peninsula. Beyond the sites mentioned above, expect to see Hout Bay, Chapman's Peak, and Simon's Town. These tours will often include lunch alongside locals, a visit to an ostrich farm (check out the amazing ostrich leather goods in their shop!), and even a South African wine tasting (your first -- but not last -- of the trip!).

The peninsula can be traveled in one of two directions. The first is along the eastern side of the peninsula and what is known as False Bay. The second is along the western side of the peninsula, beginning in Camp's Bay. To ensure that you arrive at today's dinner spot in time to take in the sunset, I'd encourage you to reach out to your tour guide in advance to coordinate taking the False Bay route. This ensures that you'll end your tour at the breathtaking Chef's Warehouse at Tintswalo Atlantic for an unforgettable meal to end your day. The Chef's Warehouse restaurant group is one of the most beloved in the Cape Town area, and this outpost is discretely tucked into the Tintswalo Atlantic Boutique Hotel at the base of Chapman's Peak. Their standard 4-course, tapas-style meal always features delectable oysters and risotto, though the menu changes daily to reflect what's in season.

Since your tour guide will have dropped you off in time for your dinner reservation, call an Uber and sleepily make your way back to your digs for your final day in the city limits.

Day 5: Rowing to Robben Island

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If you're anything like me, you love exploring the open-air markets in each city you visit. And the Oranjezicht City Farm Market, affectionately referred to as the OZCF Market, is one of the best! Open on Saturdays and Sundays year-round, the market is covered in dreamy canvas tents, making this a must-visit destination rain or shine. Return to the V&A Waterfront to start your day here with a light brunch and souvenir shopping. You'll likely feel overwhelmed by options, so let me guide you towards some of my favorite breakfast-serving stalls. Although you may not have traveled to Cape Town in search of the perfect bagel, Kleinsky's will surprise and impress even the most discerning of bagel lovers. If crepes are more your style, the queue for La Rozell Authentic French Crêpe is 100% worth the wait. No matter what you start with, if you've been dreaming of pasteis de nata since your visit to Origin Coffee Roasters earlier in the trip, Jason's Bakery is rumored to have some of the best in the city.

After a full morning of taking in the sights and smells of the OZCF, you'll make a short walk to the Nelson Mandela Gateway to board your ferry to Robben Island. In the winter season, tours leave from the Gateway at 9am, 11am, and 1pm. The 1pm tour departure should leave you plenty of time to enjoy your morning in the market and still take in this 3.5 hour tour at a leisurely pace. This 500-year-old island with a somber history is most famous for imprisoning South Africa's freedom fighters -- chief among them, Nelson Mandela. Because of this history, Robben Island is one of the many UNESCO world heritage sites you'll encounter on this itinerary. The tour, which will provide you with a context for understanding Apartheid and the fight to dismantle it, is an unmatchable educational experience and one that should not be missed.

At the conclusion of your tour, you'll return to the Nelson Mandela Gateway at roughly 5pm. A brief walk down the V&A Waterfront will lead you to Cause Effect Cocktail Kitchen, where you can reflect on today's learning over a stiff drink. With spirits distilling in beakers and cocktail artists in lab coats, you may feel transported to your high school chemistry you class. But, rest assured, no chemical tastes are to be found. The BT Signature Effect and Spekbom Citrus Spritz are sure to amaze.

You'll end today with dinner at Codfather Seafood and Sushi. More a fish market than a traditional restaurant, you'll select the exact piece of fish and preparation you'd prefer. Kingklip is a line fish indigenous to South Africa, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a tastier preparation anywhere in Cape Town. If you're craving the sushi route, they have a separate "Sushi Corner", where you'd be crazy not to try their seared yellow fin sashimi.

Don't have too many cocktails at dinner, though, tomorrow wine country calls!

Day 6: Cruising the Cape Winelands

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You've found my profile, so you know that I'm a self-proclaimed oenophile. This means I couldn't in good conscience, have you leaving the Cape Town area with at least one day in the Cape Winelands -- if one day isn't enough, reach out to me directly to begin planning your extended wine country stay. In the shadow of the Table Mountain range, the Cape Winelands experiences a generally warm climate balanced with cool ocean breezes. This means that the wines grown in the region tend to be fruit-forward, bright in acidity, and on the higher alcohol content side. So pace yourself!

Of all of my previous international wine tour experiences, La Rochelle Wine Tours takes the proverbial cake. Our guide Aylmar was a long-time Capetonian and has so much insight into the history, culture, and wine of the area. As you will be making the approximately one-hour trip to and from Cape Town in a single day, I would advise a private tour to allow for more flexibility. If you are planning a private tour, there are two hubs for your Cape Winelands exploration that you can choose from. Stellenbosch, which is actually one of South Africa's largest college towns, is arguably the better known of the two. It tends to have more widely distributed and commercial wineries. Franschhoek has more of a rural feel, with a single main street lined with lovely Cape Dutch architecture. There are no shortage of boutique wineries and luxe restaurants, though, and I tend to think Franschhoek lends itself to a more authentic experience.

Unless you have specific wineries in mind, La Rochelle Wine Tours will do all of the heavy lifting for you. If you are heading to Franschhoek and would like to drop hints, I'd consider Boschendal and Antonij Rupert Wyne. Boschendal has captivating gardens, a buzzy picnic area, and plenty of dining options -- I can't choose between the Deli Restaurant and Cellar Door Eats! -- for the ideal lunch between or paired with wine tastings. Antonij Rupert Wyne's sprawling lawns, set in front of a historic manner house, have a stand-out Cap Classique tasting. Cap Classique is the South African technique for creating sparkling wines. During this tasting, you'll lounge on their well-heated patio as you sip effervescent bubbles and nibble on nougat. What could be better?

That last question was rhetorical because the end of your day in the Cape Winelands will blow your mind. At the conclusion of your tour, plan to have your La Rochelle Wine Tours driver bring you to an early dinner reservation at Le Petite Colombe. La Petite Colombe is the little, more intimate sister to the world-class La Colombe closer to the heart of Cape Town. In the midst of the vineyards at Leeu Estates, you'll select a tasting menu that will delight your eyes and your taste buds. The smaller tasting menu, the "Reduced Menu", was more than enough food for us. They also offer each tasting menu with a vegetarian version. As you savor your final selections from the sweets trolley, toast good bye to the Cape Winelands with a final glass of Cap Classique. Your La Rochelle Wine Tours driver will be by shortly to return you to your Cape Town hotel late into the evening.

Day 7: Totsiens to Cape Town

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You have crammed so much into your winter week in Cape Town. Take advantage of a Fora late check-out, and sleep in this morning! You'll no doubt be traveling to another stellar African destination soon -- is it the bush or the beach?! Before you go, have one last breakfast at Our Local. Back on Kloof Street, you'll brunch amidst the house plants and antiques of their airy dining room. Although their Green Shakshuka and Filthy Chai Tea Latte may make it harder to leave Cape Town, your tastebuds will hold on to the memories of this amazing city.

Safe voyages to your next destination! Need more inspiration? Check out my guides on the perfect Southern Africa beach add-on and selecting your dream game reserve.

Advisor - Ashten Waks

Travel Advisor

Ashten Waks

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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Cape Town.