Curator’s statement
Are you considering booking a trip to the best place on earth, a.k.a. Tokyo? I know I always am, because — understatement alert! — the exhilarating megalopolis has so much to offer, including incredible hotels, restaurants, museums and, well, everything. Then there's Tokyo's wildly vibrant LGBTQ scene, which is reason enough to visit. Spend a Saturday night bar hopping in Shinjuku Ni-chome, Tokyo's iconic gayborhood, and you might never want to leave. Especially after checking out some of the below spots.
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Things to do in Tokyo
Get lost — and get your shopping on — in the kawaii capital of the world, a.k.a. Harajuku.
Head to the perpetually crowded Takeshita Street, and prepare to be thoroughly overwhelmed (in a good way!). It’s packed with colorful fashion boutiques, cosmetic stores, souvenir shops, cutesy cafes and snack stands selling Instagrammable bites, like gigantic crepes and rainbow cotton candy.
Then, take a break from the sensory overload by wandering the narrow side streets of Harajuku and popping into vintage clothing stores. Descend graffiti-lined stairs to enter DOG, a glam punk and pop-star-friendly basement boutique that opened in 2000 and whose customers include Lady Gaga and Rihanna.
Ready to relax? Sink into a plush couch or perch at the bar at TRUNK (HOTEL) CAT STREET’s lobby lounge. Expect to find a slew of coffee-drinking creatives filling the hip hotspot during the day before switching to craft cocktails at night.
If you’re into K-pop and K-beauty, then Shin-Okubo is the place to be. Known as Tokyo's Koreatown, this ever-electrifying Tokyo district overflows with stores selling Korean cosmetics and Korean pop culture merchandise. And like Harajuku, it’s a magnet for trend-setting youth. Be sure to refuel on some Korean street food, like cheese-filled corn dogs and hotteok (Korean sweet pancakes).
Looking to reenact the Lost in Translation karaoke scenes? Then go to Karaoke Kan’s Shibuya location and ask for rooms 601 or 602. PS: You can likely find something similar to Scarlett Johansson's bubblegum pink wig in Harajuku.
Seeking tranquility? Visit Gotokuji Temple, which, according to folklore, is the birthplace of maneki-neko, those waving cat figurines that greet customers at restaurants. Here, you’ll find hundreds of cute ceramic cats dotting the leafy grounds. They make excellent gifts, and you can purchase them at the on-site gift shop.
Stroll through sprawling, pretty-as-a-postcard Ueno Park, which houses several museums, temples and a zoo. Plus, there are over 1,000 cherry trees, so if you happen to be in town during sakura season, you’re in for a spellbinding treat.
Chances are, you've seen teamLab Planets all over TikTok. If you're wondering if the experience lives up to the hype, the answer is absolutely yes. Just be sure to book your tickets in advance to this kaleidoscopically colorful digital art museum.
Another popular, must-visit museum is the Yayoi Kusama Museum, which exhibits the iconic work of, you guessed it, Yayoi Kusama.
Laugh out loud at Tokyo Comedy Bar in Shibuya, which hosts a monthly open-mic and comedy showcase featuring a lineup of comedians from the LGBTQ+ community.
In the mood for excellent vintage shopping? Head to Shimokitazawa, a laid-back, eclectic neighborhood dotted with vintage shops, cool coffee shops and record stores. Grab a quick coffee at Bear Pond Espresso, then vintage shop ‘til you drop. Popular spots include New York Joe Exchange and Flamingo.
Day trips
Nakamura Keith Haring Collection: Opened in 2007, the Nakamura Keith Haring Collection is the only museum in the world exclusively exhibiting the work of the iconic gay American artist. Located in the tranquil mountainous town of Hokuto, here you’ll find about 300 of Haring's works as well as over 500 pieces of photographs, videos and memorabilia related to him. The museum is about two hours from JR Shinjuku Station.
Places to eat & drink in Tokyo
Have the best night of your life in Shinjuku Ni-chome, Tokyo’s wild and wonderful LGBTQ+ hub. Colloquially known as Ni-chome, this famed gayborhood is made up of hundreds of small bars and clubs that are packed within roughly five blocks. Yes, the options are endless. But don’t worry, just keep reading.
New Sazae
Hit the dance floor under glittering disco balls at this disco-blaring, funky Ni-chome fixture. Open since 1966, this intimate, legendary club has been visited by famous creatives including Freddie Mercury and Issey Miyake. Fans of Queer Eye might recognize New Sazae from a 2019 episode in which model Kiko Mizuhara brought the Fab Five to the club. The vibes are unbeatable at New Sazae. I always leave this truly inclusive spot with a big smile spread across my face.
Dragon Men
If you’re in the mood for a wild night, Dragon Men is for you. Expect to drink strong vodka sodas, see muscled go-go dancers and hear Top 40 pop bangers and EDM at this gay club. On weekends, the neon-drenched dance floor is always heaving with a mix of foreigners and locals. Tip: Be sure to hydrate!
This lovable and laidback joint might be the size of a Zara dressing room, but its entrance is unmissable — it’s marked by a massive rainbow torii (gate). After grabbing a drink, join the cocktail-clutching patrons who spill out onto the street and gather around high-top tables. It’s the perfect place for pre-gaming and making friends.
This cozy and popular lesbian-owned and operated bar offers free, freshly popped popcorn, karaoke and masterful DJ sets. Outfitted with vintage ‘70s furniture and full of good vibes, you’ll never want to leave this hotspot. But you might have to: Saturdays at Bar Gold Finger are for women only.
Don’t be fooled by the “lounge” in its name. You can always expect to have a great, debaucherous time at this spacious-for-Ni-chome club. Whether you’re losing your mind on the laser-lit dance floor in a fog of cigarette smoke or you’re being enthralled by the exquisite drag queens performing on stage, AiSOTOPE has something for everyone. Important tip: check out the events calendar via their website before showing up. Some events welcome everyone. Other nights host men-only and women-only events. (And then there are the very specific events, which have included everything from a Lady Gaga bash to celebrate 10 years of ‘ARTPOP’ to a jockstrap night for bear types.)
Queer-friendly restaurants and cafes
Shinjuku Dialogue
Located in Ni-chome, Shinjuku Dialogue is a second-floor cafe and bar that offers an organic, plant-based menu in a sun-filled, queer-friendly space. Think vegan fried chicken, miso soup and salads. The homey and aptly named spot was opened in 2019 by a trans woman named Syun-san, who wanted it to be a safe space where anyone could visit and respectfully engage in an open dialogue, all the while enjoying great food.
Cafe Arles
Obsessed with cute cats and killer coffee? Me, too. That’s why I’m obsessed with the downright adorable Cafe Arles, a retro kissaten (old-school coffee shop) that’s nestled on a quiet Shinjuku street and outfitted with funky furniture, manga-lined bookshelves and an array of quirky cat knick-knacks. Most importantly, the cozy coffee shop is home to a real-life and very cute cat duo who just might curl up on your lap while you’re digging into a plate of omurice. FYI: smoking is allowed.
Yes, it’s all in the name at this queer and women-owned cafe/bar that also features foot baths. Located in the heart of Ni-chome, enjoy coffee, tea, delicious banh mi sandwiches and roast beef rice bowls while soaking your feet in the warm baths located under the low tables. Not in the mood for getting your toes wet? Grab something from the bookshelves and carefully plop into a rainbow hammock.
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Alex Catarinella
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Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out Lauren Freedman's guide, Beginner's Guide to Visiting Tokyo.
This guide is part of ongoing series on travel to Tokyo and LGBTQ+ travel.