Croatia: A Guide to Self-Driving the Coast

I arrived in Dubrovnik and picked up my rental car at the airport. My intention was to take my time and experience the coast in its entirety, so the freedom to drive myself was a must. Note that manual vehicles are most common for rentals in Croatia, but automatics can be reserved on request. I made my way the short distance down the coast to my hotel for the first few nights, the Sheraton Dubrovnik Riviera Hotel. While not in the center of the old city, it is only a 10-minute drive to the Old Town or Stari Grad (literally “old town” in Croatian).

I chose to spend three nights in Dubrovnik, allowing for two full days to explore the old town. I must say that the word is out about the charm of Dubrovnik! Arriving early to walk the perimeter of the old town walls is a must to beat the crowds that can choke up the walkways later in the day. As you wander along these elevated pathways, you can catch a glimpse of a number of churches, cathedrals and monasteries that lie within. Additionally, there are innumerable spots to stop for photos with the contrast of terracotta and stone against the deep Adriatic blues. Take your time, sit in a cafe and eat an ice cream or drink a coffee and let your senses run wild. You are walking on 1500 years of history!

There are a number of sights to see and excursions to experience, but I chose a kayaking tour of the coast. There are varied options that combine different experiences from sunset, to wine tasting, and even gourmet picnics, but most involve a stop at one of the many nearby beaches that can only be reached by sea.

On my third day, I hopped in my car and drove south across the border into Montenegro for a day. I hadn’t done much research before I went. I only knew that I wanted to stop in Kotor and make it to Budva before turning around. Not having expectations led to a breathtaking surprise. The Bay of Kotor is something that cannot be described, only experienced. I would love to return to Montenegro someday and spend some time giving the small towns around this bay the attention they deserve. On this particular day, I carried on to Kotor and Budva, explored the old alleyways, churches, a fortress on a hill and allowed myself to be mesmerized by the shimmering coastline.

Croatia boasts over 1200 islands along its nearly 1800 km of coastline. I couldn’t wait to visit Korcula (pronounced kor-CHEW-luh), the alleged birthplace of Marco Polo and home to some incredible nature. Access to Korcula is only possible by ferry from Orebic, so be sure to check the schedule and arrive about 30 minutes in advance for boarding.

I was determined to see more than one beach on the island, so I did a bit of exploration. After wandering the quaint old town, of course. I visited three beaches, and my favorite was a tie between Pupnatska Luka (Pupnat) and Zitna. The beaches were pebbles instead of sand, but I decided that I enjoyed pebbles more because you don’t have the issue of sand cleanup. Also, if you spread your beach towel over the hot, ocean-rounded stones, you can have a nice hot stone massage at any moment. The water was incredibly crystal clear and the ocean colors were between pale blue and vibrant turquoise. Some people were snorkeling, and it seemed like the perfect location to observe some of the ocean’s underwater beauty.

Old Town Korcula is full of small, old renovated apartments to rent, but I stayed in the cute Moro Inn with new, impeccably clean and spacious rooms and a nice rooftop terrace to have a drink and enjoy the views.

Back across the ferry, I opted to take the slower coastal road instead of the inland highway, so my travel day was slightly longer. I enjoy stopping at beachside pull-offs and viewpoints, so this was a no-brainer choice for me. The Croatian coast was blue, shimmering and breath-taking as usual.

Arriving in Split, my first impression was that it was crowded. My second impression was that it’s where a lot of young people come to party. Preferring neither of these, I found a nice spot for dinner and meticulously researched my next days ahead so that I could take full advantage of what I wanted to see without the added annoyance of the hoards. I chose to wake up early the following morning to wander through Diocletian’s Palace on my own. Built for the Roman emperor Diocletian, at the end of the 3rd century AD, this UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site is massive and takes up about half of the old town. Walking in the footsteps of the ancients has always put me in a state of awe, and this area of columns and arches elicited the usual effect.

Split was another town featured in “Game of Thrones” so there was an endless supply of walking tours and activities to suit the fans. I chose a more general walking tour (there are a number of free or paid ones to select from) to learn about the history and layout of the town. The guides are always happy to give tips on favorite eateries and hidden gems as well! We made a stop in the local open-air market near the bus station. Browsing local markets is always a pleasure and indulgence for the senses.

I chose to spend time during the warmer part of the day at the Split City Museum. I love when museums are housed in historical buildings that could be a museum of their own! Do check whether the museum has reopened before you plan it into your itinerary, as last I heard, it was temporarily closed for renovations.

No trip to Split is complete without a day trip to Hvar! I did not take my car with me, but rode the ferry as a passenger only, so I did not get to see the entire island, but for me this was ok. I spent the day wandering the fortress, swimming in the bays of the small beaches and eating local pastries such as flaky burek.

Many choose to take a day trip from Split to see the beautiful lake region of Plitvice. If you choose to do this with a tour, know that you will arrive at the same time as thousands of other tour groups. I did Plitvice on a separate Croatia trip that focused more inland and spent a couple of nights there, but if you’re pressed for time, then joining a tour or doing a day trip is an option.

I insisted on sticking to the coastal route on my drive and really wanted to go to Rovinj. Since I wasn’t up for driving seven hours straight, I decided to break up the trip with a night in Zadar. Enroute, I stopped at other adorable seaside towns such as Primošten (Preem-osh-ten), which is situated on a spit with stunning beaches on either side of the neck. My favorite was Plaža Mala Raduča. With a view of the old Primošten town and the sparkling blue waters of the Adriatic, you could sit here for hours staring at the ever-changing views.

Arriving in Zadar, it’s small but also full of its own history and, of course, ruins. Definitely check out some local seafood for dinner as I had some of the best food on my travels in this town! I especially enjoyed Restoran four Kantuna and have been thinking about their black risotto (made with squid ink) ever since.

After an early breakfast and checkout, I began my mapped five-hour route to the destination of Rovinj. Again, sticking to the coastal roads so I could stop at roadside views to have a stretch or picnic, I made my way slowly north until I finally reached Rovinj by mid-afternoon.

Everyone has their place that makes them say “I can’t believe this is real,” and for me that was Rovinj. I can’t even say what exactly I loved so much about it, but it was a cute, old town with narrow alleyways, terracotta roofs and lots of shops and cafes to experience. Walking around the harbor was incredibly beautiful and I had so many crepe and gelato stops with cappuccinos to keep me going after the long drive.

I needed a couple of days to just chill, so I gave myself this time. Wandering small alleys and going in and out of shops is something I find almost as therapeutic as sitting in cafes and reading my book, so this is what I did for the next couple of days. In hindsight, I should have made my way over to the small island of Otok Sveta Katarina for some time in nature and a different photographic perspective of Rovinj.

Pula was close by and was my final stop on the itinerary up the coast. I didn’t have high expectations for Pula, but was pleasantly surprised by the vibe of the city plus the stunningly perfect Roman arena. Pula airport was my departure point to catch my international flight home, which was on the morning of Day 13. I returned my rental car at the airport (I had booked a one-way rental) and said farewell to the coasts of Croatia. What fantastic memories I made, especially self-driving up the coast with all the flexibility it allowed. Until next time!