Curator’s statement
New Zealand is nothing short of breathtaking! My husband and I spent nearly three incredible weeks driving the North and South Islands in early 2024, exploring this diverse and stunning country. With its ever-changing landscapes—from seas to mountains, glaciers to rainforests and subtropical canopies to volcanic terrains—New Zealand offers a wealth of natural beauty.
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Day 1: Hahei Beach
North Island adventure
We kicked off our adventure after landing in Auckland and set off for the Coromandel Peninsula. The drive itself was stunning, with wild bursts of purple agapanthus and crimson crocosmia lining the roadsides and hiking trails. Making Hahei Beach home, we took a beautiful hike to Cathedral Cove, famous for its natural rock archway, then timed our exploration of the popular Hot Water Beach for low tide. Renting shovels from a nearby shop, we dug our own natural hot pool right in the sand—watch your toes. The water is HOT! We ended the day with a delightful dinner at The Church Bistro, a cozy spot in town that perfectly wrapped up our first day.
Day 2: Hobbiton and Huka Lodge
Our second day started bright and early with a boat cruise around Hahei Beach and Cathedral Cove. The coastal rock formations and sea caves were even more beautiful from the water.
As huge Tolkien fans, we couldn’t pass up a visit to the Hobbiton Movie Set, driving about two hours through rolling hills and picturesque sheep farms. With over 2,000 visitors, daily, reservations are a must! Walking through the Shire’s lush pastures, colorful gardens and iconic Hobbit holes, we stepped into Middle Earth, capping the visit with a pint at the Green Dragon—a must for any Lord of the Rings (LOTR) fan.
From there, we made our way to Lake Taupo and checked into the luxurious Huka Lodge, near Huka Falls, nestled along the Waikato River. The lodge offers an exquisite blend of comfort and elegance, with breakfast and a three-course fine-dining evening meal included. We dined in Queen Elizabeth II’s dining room and stayed in the room she had used on one of her visits to New Zealand, which made the experience all the more special.
Day 3: Tongariro Crossing
Day three began early as we prepared for the 14-mile Tongariro Alpine Crossing—considered one of the best one-day hikes in the world and the filming location for LOTR’s Mount Doom. Wear hiking boots (too much scree for low-rise shoes) and bring plenty of water and snacks! The hike started with low visibility and strong winds, making the endless stair steps and climbs challenging. If we’d had more time, we’d have rescheduled to take in the stunning views and emerald lakes on a clearer day. But as we descended from the summit, the skies cleared, revealing breathtaking views of Lake Rotoaira and Taupo. We ended the hike in a lush subalpine forest filled with giant ferns, both exhausted and exhilarated.
Back at Huka Lodge, we soaked our tired muscles in the hot tub before enjoying another gourmet meal, this time in a cozy alcove overlooking the river.
On our next visit, we’d love to extend our North Island itinerary by a few more days to:
• Explore more of the Coromandel Peninsula.
• Revisit Lake Taupo for more time at Huka Lodge, better weather for hiking the Tongariro Crossing and some jetboating.
• Spend a night in Rotorua to delve deeper into Maori culture, enjoy the mud baths and explore the geothermal wonders.
• Take a ferry from Auckland to Waiheke Island, one of New Zealand’s oldest wine regions, for some wine tasting and relaxation.
Day 4: Lake Tekapo
South Island pursuits
Flying domestically from Auckland to Christchurch, we picked up our rental car and headed to Lake Tekapo, our base for the next three days. This area is known for its pristine Dark Sky Reserve, and we were fortunate to arrive to a nearly cloudless night. We booked a night adventure at Tekapo Springs: first viewing the sky with high-powered telescopes, then floating in the hot springs while stargazing. And were treated to views of the Milky Way, Orion (upside down from our usual perspective) and our first sighting of the Southern Cross.
Days 5-6: Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park
The drive along the glacial Lake Pukaki on our way to Mount Cook was nothing short of spectacular. We hiked the Hooker Valley Track, crossing swinging bridges over rushing rivers to a glacial lake. The weather was a bit uncooperative—windy and overcast—so the Hooker Glacier was hidden from view, though we had slightly better luck viewing the Tasman Glacier. Hoping for clearer skies, we returned the next day, but rain kept us exploring Tekapo until the afternoon, including the Church of the Good Shepherd, a peaceful spot with stunning views across the lake to the Southern Alps. For meals, Tekapo’s well-stocked grocery store came in handy and we enjoyed dinner at TLV and Blue Lake Eatery and Bar.
Next time, we plan to stay in Mount Cook National Park at the Hermitage Hotel to be closer to the hiking trails and better positioned for optimal weather, as it is an hour’s drive from Lake Tekapo.
Days 7-8: Mount Cook and Wanaka
On our way to Wanaka, the skies finally opened up, offering stunning views of Mount Cook from Lake Pukaki. We couldn’t resist detouring and were fortunate to secure a last-minute helicopter tour and land on the Tasman Glacier under perfect blue skies—a true highlight of the trip! But as quickly as the clear skies arrived, they vanished and rain returned within half an hour of the flight.
Wanaka greeted us with its relaxed vibe and stunning lake and mountain views. The famous Wanaka Tree, standing alone in the lake, provided a picture-perfect sunset moment.
Although our planned lake trip was canceled due to high waves, we made the most of our time by hiking the Diamond Lake/Wanaka Overlook trail and driving towards Mount Aspiring. The drive was pure New Zealand, with flocks of sheep, red deer being herded by collies, roaring waterfalls and flowing rivers. On the way back, we enjoyed a late lunch and wine tasting at Nanny Goat Winery, visited the lavender farm and wrapped up the day with an excellent meal at Bistro Gentil.
Day 9: Milford Sound Overnight Cruise
The drive to Milford Sound was nothing short of spectacular, with jaw-dropping landscapes unfolding at every turn. As we entered the Fiordlands, the rain began—and it didn’t let up. Our overnight cruise on the Fiordland Discovery started at 3 pm under a steady downpour (pack raingear and layers!), but the weather only added to the experience. The rain brought to life countless waterfalls, cascading down the towering cliffs as we made our way to the Tasman Sea. We spotted dolphins playing near the boat and New Zealand fur seals lounging on the rocks. Rainbows appeared everywhere we looked. When the rain eased, we kayaked in a quiet cove, the still waters creating a perfect reflection of the surrounding scenery. The crew were fantastic, sharing insights into local culture, history and wildlife. With only 20 passengers, the experience felt intimate, allowing us to get to know our fellow travelers. After a gourmet meal paired with local wines, we retired to our comfortable cabins for the night.
Waking up to the serene beauty of the fjord, with mist-shrouded mountains and more waterfalls illuminated by the rising sun, was nothing short of magical. After a hearty breakfast and short cruise, we were back at the dock by 9 am, ready to set off for Queenstown.
Next time, we plan to make a stop in Te Anau to explore the Glowworm Caves, where the only light guiding your boat through the caverns comes from the soft glow of thousands of tiny glowworms.
Days 10-12: Queenstown, Gibbston Valley, Arrowtown
We arrived in Queenstown just in time for lunch and then set out to explore the Gibbston Valley, where we sampled Central Otago wines (pinot noir is the star here) and soaked in the beauty of the vineyards. Arrowtown, with its historic gold-mining charm, offers great hiking, dining (try La Rumbla) and shopping.
The next three nights were spent in a luxury cabin at Gibbston Valley Lodge & Winery, enjoying gourmet dinners, e-bikes, the spa and more wine tastings. While bungee jumping over the Kawarau River Gorge is a popular activity here, we opted to watch from the bridge while biking. Glenorchy, about an hour away, is on our list for the next visit. It’s known for its magnificent hiking, snow-capped peaks and some hidden gem hotels nestled in the mountains.
Days 13-14: Franz Josef Glacier
The drive from Gibbston Valley to Franz Josef Glacier via Haast Pass is a two-hour trip, but we stopped for short hikes in the stunning scenery, through lush rainforests and along the rugged West Coast. Each turn on the 143 km offers a new breathtaking view. We spent two nights at Te Waonui Forest Retreat, one of the best accommodations in this small town.
We chose to hike the Roberts Point Track, a challenging 7.3-mile. The trail winds through a beautiful forest, past spectacular waterfalls and down a floating staircase bolted to the mountain wall. We crossed four incredible swing bridges—one of which is among the longest in New Zealand, with a wobble that adds to the thrill. The final scramble up to the viewpoint ended with stunning views of the Franz Josef Glacier. Unfortunately, the weather turned on our return trip, with a downpour that made the rocky scramble back slippery, slow, cold and soaking wet (definitely pack your rain gear!). Afterward, we warmed up with a dip in the Waiho hot tub next to our hotel, followed by a hearty, home-cooked meal at Alice May’s.
On our second day, the weather was perfect—sunny and clear—so we decided to view the glacier on another helicopter ride, including a landing on the glacier. The views of the stunning ice formations were unforgettable. Our pilot even flew us over the pass to Aoraki/Mt. Cook, where we had visited earlier in our trip. It was incredible to realize the 10 minutes by air took 6.5 hours to drive!
Day 15: Punakaiki
From glaciers and snow to warm beaches in two hours, we arrived in Punakaiki, known for its famous Pancake Rocks and blowholes. These layered rock formations, sculpted over millions of years, are a true natural wonder. We timed our visit perfectly for high tide, when the sea surges into the blowholes, creating dramatic plumes of water. As an added bonus, we explored the nearby beaches, where the sacred jade stone, known as pounamu, can be found scattered along the coast.
Days 16-17: Kaikoura Dolphin Swim
Kaikoura was our next stop to check the Dolphin Swim Encounter off my bucket list. Our home for two nights was Hapuku Lodge and Tree Houses—secluded and luxurious, with exceptional service—this retreat offered the perfect place to unwind poolside after a 5-hour drive. Breakfast and a gourmet evening meal and breakfast included.
The next morning, we suited up for the thrill of a lifetime swimming alongside over 200 dusky dolphins in their natural habitat. The dolphins were everywhere—swimming around and beneath us, spiraling and leaping out of the water, almost as if they were putting on a show. Their playful and curious nature made the encounter truly magical. We also took time to explore Kaikoura’s stunning coastline and indulge in some of the freshest seafood we’ve ever tasted.
If we had more time, hiking Abel Tasman National Park for at least two days, would have been added to the itinerary before Kaikoura.
Day 18: Christchurch
Our last night was spent in Christchurch to sleep before our early departure back home. We gained back the day we had lost nearly three weeks earlier, crossing the International Date Line!
Need to know
Tips:
• Best Time to Visit: New Zealand’s summer holiday runs from mid-December to early February. If you visit in February, you'll enjoy fewer Festive and school-break crowds.
• Travel Requirements: For US citizens staying less than three months, apply for a New Zealand Electronic Travel Authority (NZeTA) from Immigration New Zealand (valid for two years) at least a week before departure. Without it, you won't be allowed to board your flight. A visa is required for stays longer than three months.
• Getting Around: Rent a car! New Zealand is vast, and the best way to explore it is by car. American drivers, remember that you'll be driving on the left side of the road. Always keep your steering wheel next to the center line. Domestic flights from the North Island to South Island are plentiful.
• Connectivity: Download maps, music or podcasts before leaving Wi-Fi zones, as cell coverage can often be spotty.
• Weather: Check AccuWeather frequently; the weather changes rapidly, often hourly, especially in the mountains.
• Packing Essentials: Dress in layers! New Zealand’s summer temperatures can range from 40°F to 77°F. Don’t forget rain gear.
• Time Zones: Traveling west from the US, you’ll cross the International Date Line and lose a day. But don’t worry—you’ll gain it back when you return.
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This itinerary is part of our ongoing series on travel to New Zealand. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out Danielle Moore's itinerary, New Zealand: Ultimate North Island Road Trip