Four Days in Madrid For Foodies, History Nerds and Wine Lovers

Four-day itinerary

Day 1: Hit some of the highlights

1. Start your day at the Royal Palace: Grab a coffee and breakfast, of course, then head to Spain’s Palacio Real Patrimonio Nacional, the largest royal palace in Western Europe, boasting 3,418 rooms. Standard admission is 20 euros. Self-guided tours in English and Spanish and guided tours are also available.
   
   Post-palace pit stop options:
   
   Once you’re finished your tour of the place, relax on a bench in the beautiful Campo del Moro’s gardens, created by Philip II. The garden’s name refers to the troops that camped out in what’s now this part during an attempt to conquer Madrid in 1109.
   
   Or, the Royal Palace is only a few steps away from the La Almudena Cathedral. Built in the 19th century, this Neo-Gothic Cathedral is beautiful and serene stop.
   
   You’ll probably be ready for a coffee or even lunch, so head in the direction of Plaza Mayor.

2. Plaza Mayor is a Madrid must-see. This grand and storied square is in the center of the oldest part of Madrid and is only about a 10-min walk from the Palace.
   
   Pit stop option: If you’re feeling like a coffee, head directly into the square and any of the cafes will give you a lovely view of the statue of Phillip III on horseback.
   
   Lunch first, then coffee? Head just around the corner and dip into:
   
   The famous Mercado de San Miguel food market. Beware, it’s an AH-mazing market, with everything from oysters to Iberico, so you’ll definitely struggle to make your final decision.
   
   Eat like Madrileños. Around the corner from both Mercado de San Miguel and Plaza Mayor is an unassuming storefront belonging to, Bar Valle del Tiétar. Many Madrileños consider this the best bocadillo de calamares (calamari sandwiches) in Madrid. This may be a new combination for you, but don’t be a tourist — be a traveler and try it (with a squeeze of lemon over the top). It’s a cheap, delicious lunch while you’re touring around Madrid. Be sure to get a half pint of local beer. Yes, half pint, be reasonable, it’s still daytime and there’s more to do!
   
   Savvy traveler tip: You’ll spend 3x as much in the Plaza Mayor for food and drink — so, eat like a Madrileño!

3. Puerta del Sol is just a six-minute walk from Plaza Mayor — it’s basically the Times Square of Madrid. It’s one of the busiest public squares in Madrid and is home to Madrid’s regional government.
   
   Selfie alert: Make sure you take a selfie of your feet on “Kilometre 0.” You’ll find this stone slab in front of the Casa de Correos government building. It’s the literal starting point for all major radial roads in Spain, which is a pretty wild thing to consider.

4. You’ll probably want to go catch a rest and freshen up. Aperitif hour in Spain is 4-6 pm and be Spanish, have a drink before dinner or tapas! (See my recs below).

Day 2: Visit the art world’s heavy-hitters & walk like a royal

1. The Golden Triangle of Art awaits
   Even if you’re not an art lover, you’ll want to visit at least one of Madrid’s three world-class art museums in the “Golden Triangle of Art,” Museo Nacional del Prado, the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía or the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, all of which are conveniently housed along a stunning kilometer called the Paseo del Arte. Regardless of whether you’re an art enthusiast or just mildly interested, you’ll see some of the most famous works of art in the Golden Triangle of Art, so definitely make a little time in your schedule.
   
   Exhibition highlights:
   The Prado has “Ecce Homo.” The lost Caravaggio through February, 23, 2025.
   “Las Meninas” by Diego Velázquez
   
   The Reina Sofía: Modern and Contemporary Art Collection.
   Pablo Picasso, “Guernica.”
   
   Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza:
   Get ready to see some famous (and infamous) artwork: “Portrait of Henry VIII of England,” by Hans Holbein the Younger; “Portrait of Giovanna degli Albizzi Tornabuoni,” by Domenico Ghirlandaio (Domenico Bigordi); “Portrait of Millicent, Duchess of Sutherland,” by John Singer Sargent. Be a savvy traveler: If you’re planning to visit all three, buy a Paseo del Arte Pass. You’ll pick up your pass from the ticket office and then you’ll be able to skip the entrance lines at the museums.

2. After you grab a coffee in the museum café of your choice, head to the Plaza de Cibeles, the official start of the Paseo del Arte, where you’ll see the symbol of Madrid, the Roman Goddess Cybele and her lion-drawn chariot. This is where you’ll also see the UNESCO World Heritage site, “The Landscape of Light,” which includes the Paseo del Prado, Europe’s first tree-lined promenade, and stretches to Plaza de Atocha, and includes the Los Jerónimos neighborhood and El Retiro Park.
   
   Tip: If you are an art lover give yourself two hours for each museum to stroll through the collections. If you’re interested, but not art-adept, take the guided tours available. Do a little pre-planning to find out what’s new and what’s interesting to you.

3. Think about adding in a stop to the Royal Botanic Gardens, which are next to the Prado Museum. The gardens were created by Carlos III as a complex dedicated to the natural sciences in Madrid. Open every day at 10 am, except Christmas and New Year’s Day. Entrance is €4. The self-guided tour can be a nice break in between museums.

4. Rest at your hotel and then TAPAS!

Day 3: Slow the pace & see Madrid from the outside

1. Have a coffee and a pastry at the hotel, put on some comfy shoes and set out on a walking tour of Madrid.
   
   Visit the La Latina neighborhood to stroll and shop and then plan to spend a relaxing late morning or afternoon in Parque de El Retiro (Retiro Park), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
   
   While you’re there you can leisurely meander around Estanque Grande del Retiro or if you’re feeling energetic, rent a rowing or paddle boat and get out on the water.
   Be on the lookout for a sphinx or two at the Fuente de las Esfinges fountain, more than a few majestic statues, the grandest of which is the monument to Alfonso XII which overlooks the Estanque Grande del Retiro.

2. Head over to the Palacio De Cristal. This magnificent glass palace was originally built in 1887 as a greenhouse. As of August 2024, the interior is closed to the public, but do not skip this gorgeous site, even from the outside, it is a wonder.
   
   Selfie alert: The Pond in front of the Palacio De Cristal is a great place to snap a selfie and get the entire palace in the pic. Also, the walk has a lovely mini-cave you can walk through, also great for selfies!

3. Now, head over to the Palacio de Velazquez and have a short impromptu stroll through temporary contemporary art exhibitions.

4. Aperitif hour: Cocktails up.

5. Michelin-star night. Since you’ve taken in the local tapas scene and this has been a more relaxed pace day, opt for one of Madrid’s shining Michelin-star restos.

Day 4: Shopping and soccer

1. Even if you’re not a soccer fan, chances are, you know someone who is, and that someone is likely a Real Madrid fan.
   Head out to Santiago Bernabéu Stadium. Get behind the scenes of Real Madrid, explore the club's fascinating museum and step into the players' changing rooms! (Tour route temporarily affected due to renovation works).
   Getting to the stadium is easy by metro. Simply take Line 10 of the Madrid Metro. It is located in fare Zone A. It is located next to the Real Madrid's Santiago Bernabéu Stadium.
   If you/your family are Real Madrid fans, then register for a tour to the museum and stadium. Note: As of October 2024, there was ongoing construction that may impact your visit itinerary.

2. Time for lunch, coffee and shopping!
   Head to Madrid’s “Golden Mile” in the Salamanca neighborhood. It’s about an 11-min cab ride or about 25 mins by train to the Serrano or Velázquez metro stop. Head down the Calle de Serrano to find boutiques as well as international luxury stores and retail fashion, like Zara.

3. Wrap up shopping, gift getting and soak up the rest of the goodness you can from Madrid. Maybe that’s hitting the same tapas bar you did on the first night to round out the memory. Maybe make it a fancy night out. Maybe grab a seat on the rooftop of your hotel and listen as the night envelopes the city with a glass of champagne.

4. Have a final hierbas digestif and say goodnight and good luck to Madrid. Until next time.

Where to eat, drink and have churros:

• Alimentacion Quiroga Restaurant
  Calle Huertas 19 Barrio de Las Letras, 28014 Madrid Spain
  +34 910 29 28 63
  Excellent wine and tapas bar. Non-touristy. You’ll see locals in this bar. We were lucky to be there when a local patron brought in his (very well-behaved) retriever!
  
  This is casual wine bar dining with good wines and very good traditional tapas. Each tapas was more delicious than the next. So good we went twice. Staff, while little bristly as first, warms up to you once they see you’re a traveler, not a tourist.
  Personal revelation: I discovered artichoke cream. Amazing.

• Casa Gerardo
  Calle de Calatrava, 21
  28005, Madrid
  Located in Madrid’s oldest neighborhood, and arguably its most charming, Fantastic. Non-touristy. They do have an English menu and international visitors, but most are locals coming in for traditional tapas and a glass of wine before heading to their next local. We made dinner out of the tapas offerings. We arrived one night as they were closing so opted for a second try, just as they were opening. It was definitely worth it. The food was delicious, the bar was bustling within about an hour (no one in Madrid eats at 7pm)! The food is authentic.

• Bar Valle del Tiétar
  Calle de Cdad. Rodrigo, 5, Centro, 28012 Madrid, Spain
  +34 915 48 05 11
  A friend who is a Madrid native said this is the best place to get bocadillo de calamares (calamari sandwiches) in Madrid, and they were not wrong. Authentic. Not fussy. Drink the local beer and squeeze lemon on your bocadillo, like Madrileños.

• Churreria Chocolateria 1902
  San Martin Street 2. 28013 Madrid
  +34 91 522 57 37
  Churros! Spanish churros are different than the Mexican ones we’re used to in the U.S. They’re amazing and MUST be dipped in chocolate.

• Chocolatería de San Ginés
  Pasadizo de San Ginés, 5
  28013 · Madrid · España

• La Venencia
  +34 914 29 73 13
  Old school vibes. Classic Sherry Bar. Only serves Sherry and light tapas. Enjoy!

• Vinoteca Vides
  Delicious tapas selection. Expansive Spanish wine list
  45 different wines by the glass. 125 wines by the bottle from every region of Spain.

• Tienda de Vinos
  Classic menu which has remained virtually unchanged for decades.