O Grove & La Toja Island: A Rías Baixas Escape From Sea to Sanctuary

Aside from eating, one of my favorite activities is walking the Maritime Pass in O Grove. It starts near San Vicente Marina and follows the west coast. You will pass hidden coves, dramatic rock formations, and reach the historic military zone, where old coastal defense cannons still stand. This is where the trail officially ends, but it’s also where a more challenging section begins. Suitable only for experienced walkers and climbers as there’s a lot of rock jumping involved and difficult terrain. If you’re up for it, you’ll be rewarded with stunning coastal views and the peaceful, lesser-known Con Pedro Beach.

Take a stroll to Porto do Grove and watch the fishermen bring in their catch, usually before 11 a.m., before taking it to the local fish market (Lonja do Grove) inside the municipal market next to the port. There, the seafood is weighed, categorized, and prepared for auction, which begins at 3:30 p.m. on weekdays. You can watch for free from the public viewing area—just enter through the door opposite the Tourist Office.

La Lanzada Beach, is a 2.5-kilometer stretch of sand surrounded by dunes and a protected ecosystem. It’s a Blue Flag beach with great water quality and facilities. While it’s a hotspot for surfers, windsurfers, and kiteboarders, especially in the summer with its strong winds and waves, I, however, am a seasoned observer. There are several surf schools here offering lessons and courses, perfect for beginners or those looking to improve their skills.

Aquarium O Grove, may be small, but you still get the chance to explore the region's marine life. It’s a great spot to unwind while discovering some of the creatures in Galicia’s waters.

Opens daily:

• 01 Jan – 13 Jul 11:00–14:00 / 16:00–19:00

• 14 Jul – 31Aug 11:00–14:00 / 16:00–20:00

• 01 Sep – 30 Sep 11:00–14:00 / 16:00–19:00

• 01 Oct – 12 Oct: Weekends only 11:00–14:00 / 16:00–19:00

• 01 Nov – 30 Nov: Weekends only 11:00–14:00 / 16:00–19:00

• Dec open weekends, 08 Jan and then 22–31 Dec 11:00–14:00 / 16:00–19:00

• Admission: Adults €15, Children 4–14 years €12, Children 0–3 years free, 65yrs and over €13, Adults with disabilities €13.

Museo das Salgadeiras de Moreiras (Moreiras Salt Pans Museum): A small museum focused on the region’s traditional salted fish industry and the use of salt to preserve seafood. Located in the Monte da Siradella Natural Park, it offers a unique insight into the area’s heritage.

• Opens: Tuesday–Sunday 11:30–14:00 / 17:00–19:00

• Admission: €2 Adults / €1 under 16s.

Take a boat tour around the estuaries — or better yet, a mussel boat tour or a Seafood Dinner Cruise with Queimada. It’s a fun, delicious experience, and a fantastic way to learn about the area’s floating mussel farms.

Cultural Significance of Witches and the Queimada Ritual: Galicia is a land of mysticism and folklore, where tales of 'meigas' — wise women with knowledge of natural remedies and protective charms — are deeply rooted in tradition. One of Galicia’s most fascinating rituals is the queimada, a fiery ceremony meant to ward off evil spirits. Made with aguardiente (a local spirit), sugar, lemon peel and coffee beans and usually in an earthen pot. The drink is set aflame as participants recite the conxuro da queimada, an incantation invoking protection. Thought to have Celtic origins, the ritual blends pagan and local traditions, symbolizing Galicia’s cultural identity. Fair warning, it’s strong stuff and I struggle to finish even a shot!

La Toja Island: A Wellness Escape

If you’re looking for rest and relaxation, La Toja Island is connected to O Grove by a 19th-century bridge and offers a complete retreat. It is one of Spain’s most sought-after wellness destinations, known for its mineral-rich thermal waters, luxury spas and natural beauty.

Its biggest draw is its thermal springs, believed to have healing properties, particularly for skin conditions and joint pain. Two of the best-known spa hotels, Eurostars Gran Hotel La Toja and Hotel Talaso Louxo La Toja, offer a mix of thermal circuits, hydrotherapy treatments and wellness programs. If your focus is on relaxation and well-being, this island deserves more than just a quick visit — it’s a place to really unwind.

La Toja is also famous for its namesake soap, one of Spain’s most iconic skincare products. Made with the island’s mineral-rich thermal waters, these soaps are prized for their hydrating and soothing qualities. You’ll find them across Spain, but picking up a bar at the source makes for a special souvenir. My favorite — and a staple in our home — is the black soap from the Magno range, known for its rich lather and distinctive fragrance. La Toja Museum Shop is located at Rúa Cortegada, 1. Opens Sunday to Thursday, 10:00–14:00. Friday and Saturday 10:00–14:00 / 16:00–20:00.

Beyond wellness, La Toja is a peaceful, scenic retreat. The island is covered in lush pine forests, ideal for leisurely walks and quiet moments by the water. While it doesn’t have large sandy beaches, its calm estuarine setting provides stunning sunset views.

One of La Toja’s most unique landmarks is the Chapel of San Caralampio and the Virgin of Carmen, better known as the “Shell Church.” Its exterior is covered in thousands of white scallop shells — both decorative and symbolic. Pilgrims once passed through here on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

For those seeking a bit of activity, the island has a 9-hole golf course with beautiful ocean views. There’s also a small casino, offering a touch of nightlife for those who want a change of pace.

Whether you come for the seafood, nature, wellness or history, O Grove and La Toja offer a perfect mix of authentic Galician charm and relaxation.

O Grove is called the seafood capital of Galicia — making it a true foodie’s paradise. Restaurants here serve up the freshest catches, from razor clams and scallops to mussels and lobster. In October, O Grove comes alive with the Festa do Marisco (Seafood Festival), where locals and visitors gather to celebrate the area's rich seafood culture. It’s a fantastic time to visit and my favorite time to visit — but plan ahead, as hotels and restaurants book up fast!

• D’Berto and Culler de Pau, which I’ve been visiting since before it earned its first Michelin star (now it has two!), are two standout spots. But with the incredible quality of local ingredients, you’re bound to eat well wherever you go. Here are a few more of my favorites, and if you’re visiting in the summer, booking ahead is a must.

• Tapería Adrede (located at Rúa Monte da Vila, 47) has a relaxed atmosphere, yet the service is efficient and the staff are friendly. I particularly enjoy the Tosta con Pulpo (toasted bread with octopus) and their Zamburiñas (queen scallops), best paired with a crisp Albariño.
  Tel: (+34) 600 442 966
  Opens: Monday, Wednesday & Thursday 13:00–17:00. Friday, Saturday and Sunday 13:00–17:00 / 20:00–01:00. Closed on Tuesday.

• Beiramar (located at Avenida Beiramar, 30) is known for its incredibly fresh seafood and exceptional dishes. It’s a favorite among locals, which says a lot, and I keep coming back for their delicious arroz con bogavante (lobster rice).
  Tel: (+34) 986 731 081
  Opens: Sunday to Saturday 13:00–16:00 / 20:30–23:00. Closed on Monday.

• Mesón do Mar (located at Calle Luís Casais, 25) offers a laid-back, authentic Galician seafood experience. Their seafood platters are excellent, and the quality of their shellfish and fresh fish is second to none. I highly recommend this longstanding, family-run restaurant — it has just 50 covers, ensuring top-notch quality in both food and service.
  Tel: (+34) 986 732 495
  Opens: Monday, Tuesday and Thursday–Saturday 11:30–16:00 / 20:30–23:00.
  Sunday, 11:30–16:00. Closed on Wednesday.