Curator’s statement
Through the centuries, Santurce (formally known as Cangrejos during the 19th century) has witnessed the rise and fall of being a pivotal economic hub in Puerto Rico. From being the only pueblo in Puerto Rico, to being established by people of color, to being plucked away by the wealthy, Santurce has developed into a multicultural network of artists, historians, politicians, and culinary geniuses. From the times of Spanish rule, Cangrejos became an anchor in San Juan that drove different industries, such as manufacturing into the capital. However, with its expansion came overpopulation. In the 1950's, the Puerto Rican government sought to resolve this problem by building apartment complexes to hold more families. It began constructing cultural centers, such as theaters and art galleries to push the Santurcean community afloat.
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Things to do in San Juan
After living in Santurce most of my life, I have witnessed how this town has grown, especially culturally. One of the most prominent ways it has grown is through its culinary scene. With talented chefs and masterminds of the culinary arts, many established their restaurants in Santurce, growing the town's reputation as a cultural center. In this article, I recommend some of the most incredible restaurants in Santurce, so you can discover their magic when visiting PR. It will give you a new perspective on Puerto Rican cuisine and the history and greatness of neighboring towns inside San Juan. Instead of limiting travelers to Old San Juan and Condado, this article will shed light on one of the most incredible parts of Puerto Rico.
Places to eat & drink in San Juan
SUR Barra Nikkei
First opened in 2019, after Chef Rafael Ubior had spent some time in Lima, Perú, SUR Barra Nikkei is the reason for inspiration for this article.
The name SUR Barra Nikkei is composed of two critical factors. SUR, as per the restaurant's website, is the desire and “curiosity…of wanting to explore the unknown,” as well as the “desire to create awareness.” As for Nikkei, it defines the combination of two cuisines: Japanese and Peruvian. When reading the definition, I cannot help but feel identified, as my reason for becoming an advisor was also to create awareness of all these fantastic restaurants and bars I was visiting. Its name truly reflects what this restaurant does, and the superb food it produces.
I first visited SUR only a few months ago; I was greeted with sublime dishes and impeccable service. My father and I sat at the bar and spoke with the bartender, who recommended we order three dishes: a nigiri, a ceviche, and then a main dish. While enjoying Pisco and our delicious food, our server talked about the restaurant, their local products, and how they are trying to get the word out about this fantastic place. I absolutely loved the conversation and how passionate the entire staff is about the restaurant. Because they believe in their products and cuisine, they have become one of the most successful restaurants in the area. Each dish was fresh, light, and absolutely amazing. Nothing was a miss, and the deliciousness of its food earned SUR Barra a place on this list.
We shared the shrimp nigiri, the Renzo con Micha, and the En las Conchas Negras for two people and thought it was more than enough.
Vianda
This dynamic duo, Amelia Dill and Francis Guzmán, have an impressive background. Having worked in prestigious places such as Blue Hill and The Modern in New York, it’s no wonder Vianda is such a fantastic restaurant.
Opened back in 2017, Vianda, as the chef mentioned, comes from the Latin word “vivanda” or “place of living.” It’s interesting to see the use of this name in Puerto Rico; we use it to describe some starch foods such as yuca, plátano, batata, and so on. However, Vianda strives to be a farm-to-table restaurant, which means that menu each day depends on the produce that they harvest. It creates an adaptive and ever-changing menu, which explores all the different local produce from Puerto Rico, highlighting the richness of our soil.
I first visited Vianda last year and was amazed by the culinary experience I had. I started my night with a La Cátedra cocktail (gin, St. Germain, hibiscus, and rose). By that time last year, we started our dinner with a few bacalao and pastelón bolitas with aioli sauce. As for the main, I had a crispy pork belly with kimchi rice. Sadly, in Vianda fashion, you won’t be able to find these items now (maybe, and hopefully, in the future). However, I can attest that everything we tried was superb. Whatever the chefs have in their kitchen, I can ensure they create a stunning dish—another must-visit restaurant.
ORUJO Taller de Gastronomía
From a more pricier standpoint, ORUJO by Portela offers a unique view of traditional Caribbean flavors. Its chef, nominated for the James Beard Foundation for best chef in the South, demonstrates the intricate creations made from local produce. The absolute perfection of these dishes, with a pristine combination of the best wine, makes this place one of the best restaurants I have tried.
ORUJO stands right at the border of where Santurce meets Miramar. While some may argue that it is not Santurce, ORUJO's culinary perfection must be mentioned in this article. Orujo works on a unique experience as they do not offer a set menu. Like Vianda, they work with local produce to create exceptional dishes that blow your tastebuds away. They offer various tasting menus that can go up to twenty courses. As mentioned, all are paired with its distinct wine to provide the perfect pairing. While going to a restaurant without knowing what to expect, I assure you that you will thoroughly enjoy this experience.
Cocina Al Fondo
Cocina Al Fondo by Chef Natalie Vallejo brings traditional Puerto Rican cuisine to the modern world. The James Beard Foundation also nominated Chef Vallejo, who has created a flawless fuse between modern and old-school Puerto Rican cuisine.
Think of this restaurant as visiting your grandmother’s house, now run by your exotic little sister, where the food flows, the cocktails hit perfectly, and the conversation is exquisite. Cocina Al Fondo offers such a relaxed and familiar setting, which in part cultivates the perfect atmosphere for its creative dishes. While focusing on local produce (we see a theme here…) and combining two distinctive ways of Puerto Rican cooking, Cocina Al Fondo leaves you feeling complete with a happy heart. Chef Vallejo has perfected the word home in her fantastic restaurant. It’s genuinely a must-visit Santurce.
Calle Cerra
Cocktail making and going out runs in our Puerto Rican blood, and visiting Calle Cerra will provide the most exquisite drinks in the best modern atmosphere where Santurce shows its true colors. With exquisite bars such as Machete, Santurzi, El Watusi, and Galeria, you will find incredible cocktail enthusiasts mixing your perfect drink. With a modern yet an ode to our history, Calle Cerra is one of the best nights out in Santurce.
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Travel Advisor
Ana P. Bauza Rodriguez
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to San Juan. For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Stephanie Cavazuti’s guide, Local's Guide to San Juan, Puerto Rico.