The Non-Camper’s Guide to Glamping in Montana: Your Pet-Friendly Stay at Under Canvas North Yellowstone
Curated By
Ashten Waks
Curator’s statement
If you’re anything like me, the following facts might be true…First, you’ve only tent camped once in your life (at the age of four), and that was enough camping to know that you far prefer the comforts of a plush hotel bed to the comforts of nature. Second, you’ve found yourself in the Yellowstone fandom and have been dreaming of the jaw-dropping panoramas of Montana’s Paradise Valley ever since. So, when I learned that Under Canvas, the leaders in the United States “glamping” scene, opened a new property in the heart of Paradise Valley earlier this year, my interest was piqued. And, when I learned that my sweet spaniels could tag along for the adventure, I was sold. Now, what exactly is Paradise Valley? This area refers to the roughly 50 miles of untouched river valley located between the town of Livingston, Montana to the north and the original Yellowstone National Park entrance to the south. Only 45 minutes from Bozeman Yellowstone International Airport, it’s bordered by the peaks of the Gallatin Mountains to the west and the Absaroka Mountain Range to the east. Along the valley floor, snakes the largest un-dammed portion of the rushing Yellowstone River. In short, it is the ideal place to indulge in the outdoors while partaking in world class hiking, fly fishing, horseback riding, rafting, animal watching and more. And, what exactly is Under Canvas North Yellowstone. Since 2012, Under Canvas has been dedicated to connecting guests to the outdoors. They now have 11 Conde Nast award-winning locations near National Parks throughout the United States, the newest of which is the North Yellowstone property. This particular location is set directly on the banks of the Yellowstone River and has 50 safari-inspired tents, including stargazer tents (with windows directly over the bed) and river suites (large enough to sleep families of six). Each canvas tent is adorned with chic West Elm furnishings, at least a king-sized bed, a wood-burning stove, a (pull-chain) shower with adjustable water temperature, and a flushable toilet. On site, you’ll find a nature trail along the riverbed, comfortable Adirondack chairs and hammocks for lounging, fire pits for roasting property-provided s’mores kits nightly, and an agenda of daily activities like yoga and live music. You’ll also find Embers, the Under Canvas-run restaurant and bar that cooks up hot breakfasts and dinners daily. If I haven’t convinced you to make this trip yet, this incentive might: If you book by the end of this year, Under Canvas is offering one free night on any four nights booked. Don’t sleep on this one! And if I haven’t convinced you that Under Canvas North Yellowstone is worth at least 1 visit, check out other lodging recommendations later in this itinerary.
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Day 1: Float into Paradise Valley
You and your four-legged friends will fly into Bozeman Yellowstone International mid-day. If you’re having difficulty finding direct flights into this airport, I suggest looking at Avelo Airlines. Although they are a more budget airline, they are efficient, pet-friendly and offer a number of non-stop flights from smaller airports to Bozeman Yellowstone International. From there, walk into the crisp mountain air and find your rental car parked directly across from the airport exit. As rental cars can be expensive in this area, consider Turo – the Airbnb of cars – from whom we rented a Jeep just perfect for cruising through Montana.
Grab lunch in downtown Bozeman before making your way into Paradise Valley. Bridger Brewing’s flagship location pairs its “best in town” beers with stellar views and hand-tossed pizzas. The patio at nearby Outlaw Brewing hosts a number of rotating food trucks each day with delicious dishes to wash down your beer. With either choice, it’ll be hard to tear yourself away from beautiful Bozeman, but Under Canvas awaits!
After arriving at “camp,” settle into your tent and get to know the property with a leisurely walk along the riverside trail. Then, you’ll be ready to become even more familiar with the area on a sunset river float. When we spoke to a Paradise Valley local, he was emphatic that a float down the Yellowstone River is truly the best way to understand this picturesque locale. If you’re on an adults-only trip, Yellowstone Wood Boat Tours offers appetizer-accompanied, scenic floats in gorgeous wooden dories. If you’re looking for a family- or pet-friendly alternative, Rowdy River Guides or Rubber Ducky River Rentals are other great options for private floats (plus, you can bring your own snacks and drinks along!). While on the river, be sure to keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles soaring overhead, elk grazing from the pastures, and cattle drinking at the banks.
Once the sun has set and you’ve returned to Under Canvas, you’ll be greeted by the glow of the custom fire pits and ready to tuck into a warm dinner. Tonight, you’ll dine at the café-style Embers, where the Graze Board, arugula salad, and Canvas Burger are sure standouts. Round out the evening with some gooey s’mores and prepare to fall asleep to the babbling of the river outside your tent.
Day 2: Pine Creek Pleasures
Help yourself to Under Canvas’ coffee and tea service and prepare to lace up your boots. Today begins with a hike at Pine Creek Falls. This moderately challenging, two-and-a-half mile hike is beloved by adults, children and pets alike. It ends at the eponymous Pine Creek Falls, which is the perfect place to cool off with a dip. If you’re up for a challenge, the trail continues on another four miles through fields of wildflowers and culminates at peaceful Pine Creek Lake. With either choice, you’ll deserve a delicious post-hike brunch! On warm summer weekends, Pine Creek Lodge, one of the area’s best outdoor music venues, hosts casual, live music brunches. Fill up on their fluffy blueberry pancakes – I’ve been trying to replicate the recipe since our trip – and dance to bluegrass favorites with your people and pups.
Back at camp, take advantage of the mid-day peacefulness. Borrow some Lululemon equipment for a stretch on your private deck or settle into a riverfront hammock with your favorite book.
After you’re feeling relaxed, freshen up for a relaxing sunset cocktail and casual dinner at down valley Sage Lodge’s Fireside Room. The views from this understated patio are hard to beat, and their locally grown beef tartare, elk loin, and bison Bolognese will have your mouth watering for more Montana! Don’t forget to make room for dessert though, Montana loves its huckleberries, and their huckleberry and peach crisp is the state fruit’s perfect showcase.
Day 3: Wildlife Wonders
You can’t travel all the way to Paradise Valley without spending at least one day in Yellowstone National Park. Unfortunately, like most National Parks, Yellowstone is not a particularly pet-friendly destination. So, if like us, you bring your furry family members along, check out Livingston-based boarding facilities like Yellowstone Pet Boarding or Park Your Paws so that your pets can have their own adventure while you have yours.
En route to Yellowstone’s North Entrance, stop for a quick lunch at Follow Yer’ Nose BBQ Shack in Emigrant. This roadside favorite serves up mouthwatering pulled pork and brisket, which I recommend dousing in each of their homemade sauces (and while you’re at it, take home some of their Paradise Valley Gold BBQ Sauce!).
You could easily spend a week exploring Yellowstone and still have much more to explore, but if you’re only dedicating one day to the park, I suggest sticking to a limited itinerary of North Entrance-based jewels. Once you’ve reached the park, your first stop is Mammoth Hot Springs. Spend several hours exploring the two miles of boardwalks that surround this network of prehistoric-looking geothermals. The oranges, pinks, and greens produced by the organisms inhabiting these travertine terraces will undoubtedly take your breath away. On top of that, Yellowstone was initially created to protect these unique underground hot springs.
With Mammoth Hot Springs under your belt, it’s time to meet your guide for an afternoon trek into the Lamar Valley, fondly referred to as America’s Serengeti. Although many itineraries will include a sunrise trek, I personally prefer the less touristed afternoon hours when the animals are actively engaged in dinnertime routines. The incredibly knowledgeable guides from Lamar Valley Touring will meet you at the Gardiner Chamber of Commerce, right outside of the park entrance. While you’re waiting, grab a quick cone from next-door Yellowstone Perk, whose huckleberry chip ice cream is the ideal afternoon snack.
From there, you’ll venture into the depths of the Lamar Valley for a four-hour expedition, in which you’ll work with your guide to track and spot bears, wolves, bison, pronghorn, and more. In addition to endless enthusiasm, your Lamar Valley Touring guide will come well-equipped with long scopes and binoculars to use in your tracking as well as a thoughtful picnic dinner. You’ll be feeling like a naturalist in no time and surely be disappointed as the sun sets alongside your tour.
Make your way back up Highway 89 to reunite with your patiently waiting pets and snuggle in for a good night’s rest!
Day 4: Goodbye to Glamping
Make the most of your last morning at Under Canvas with one of the daily classes held on the outdoor yoga pavilion. Then say sad goodbyes to the new friends you’ll have certainly made before packing up your tent. Your last meal in Paradise Valley is brunch on the patio of Pinky’s Café. This local favorite creates new menus each week but is known for their specialty benedicts and stuffed waffles. You’ll have a hard time returning to Bozeman International Airport for your flight home, though you’ll find solace in thinking about the amazing Under Canvas sites you can visit next year!
Travel Advisor
Ashten Waks
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For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Melissa Friedman-Levine’s guide, Things to do in Big Sky, Montana.
This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to Montana.