48 Hours in Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle

Perched on top of a dormant volcano, Edinburgh Castle has a full, rich history. Thousands of tourists visit it daily to check out one of the world’s strongest fortifications and to get amazing views of the surrounding city. Don’t forget to check out the Scottish crown jewels, as well as Mons Meg, the giant cannon that is fired off at one in the afternoon daily (depending on weather). For the American Revolution historian, don’t miss the dungeons! There, they have preserved some of the first renderings of the American flag, carved into prison doors by American prisoners of war.

Mary King’s Close

The Edinburgh that people visit today is built on top of the older remnants of the city. To see what old Edinburgh used to look like hundreds of years ago, you must book a tour of Mary King’s Close! The historians and tour guides each specialize in a different facet of the history of the alleyways, or closes, as they are known here. They are excellent at bringing those tales to life. From plague doctors to foreign diplomats, they take guests down into the deepest depths of the city and share their stories to the delight of everyone. This tour was one of the best I have ever taken, and I always recommend it to visitors to Edinburgh.

Dean Village

This picturesque area of Edinburgh is a short walk from the hustle and bustle of the Royal Mile. However, the village, once you arrive, seems a world away! Here, the late eighteenth-century architecture surrounds visitors and immerses them in Edinburgh’s industrializing past. Grab a cup of coffee or hot chocolate from one of the many cafes or carts and get your camera ready!

Arthur’s Seat

For the more intrepid traveler, take a hike up to Arthur’s Seat. This hike is classified as “moderate,” but the views are well worth it! From here, you can see the entire city. As long as it isn’t cloudy! Wear good shoes and, if you’re up for it, start early so you can catch the sunrise.

The Royal Mile

In Edinburgh’s Old Town, the most famous street is the Royal Mile. It begins at the top of the hill at Edinburgh Castle and continues down to Holyrood Palace at the other end. The Royal Mile is one of the most heavily trafficked areas in Scotland. There are dozens of shops carrying traditional Scottish items, such as tartans, shortbread, and, of course, whisky. Visitors can also visit museums, historic homes and the beautiful St. Giles Cathedral. Many of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs can also be found here. While bagpipers can be found year round, in August, the Mile is filled with performance artists that can do everything from acrobatics to on-the-spot poem writing. Don’t forget to explore the “closes” off the Mile. Many of them hide quiet pubs and picturesque views of the city.

Victoria Street

Most everyone who has dreamed of visiting Scotland has heard of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile. However, when it comes to famous streets in the capital, Victoria Street is a close second. Filled with lovely, colorful shops and restaurants, it is also well-known for being the inspiration for what Harry Potter fans know as Diagon Alley. No visit here is complete without peeking into at least one of many shops devoted to the beloved wizard and his friends.

Greyfriars Kirkyard

Harry Potter fans also shouldn’t miss a visit to Greyfriars Kirkyard! Nestled behind the Elephant House Café, this cemetery is known for holding many of the names from the Harry Potter books. While Harry Potter fans may enjoy looking at the tombstones, history and architecture lovers also find a great deal to observe in the 16th century graveyard.

Princes Street Gardens

Just below the Royal Mile sits Princes Street Gardens. This area is a wonderful spot for picnics and pictures! Once you see it, your mind will be blown to know that it used to be a lake! Here, locals and tourists alike will wander through the lush, green space with their lunches and coffees and enjoy the fresh air. Impossible to miss, the Scott Monument looms over the gardens. Visitors can make their way to the top for views of Edinburgh Castle and Edinburgh’s New Town.

The Grassmarket area

If there are any people watchers (other than me!) out there, then the Grassmarket is the place for you! This area sits just below Edinburgh Castle and is conveniently on the way to Dean Village. Here, visitors can find amazing coffeeshops, ice cream parlors and plenty pubs with outdoor seating. In the spring, the scent of fresh flowers climbing up the sides of the buildings gives the place a garden-like atmosphere. It is easy to find a bench to sit down on and enjoy a small break in the middle of a busy day of sightseeing.

The Spence

Located within the Gleneagles Townhomes in Edinburgh’s New Town, The Spence is an upscale dining affair. Built originally as a branch of the Royal Bank of Scotland, it looks incredibly and beautifully opulent. However, once visitors are done snapping their perfect Instagram pics, they will be completely blown away by the amazing food and cocktails. They are open for breakfast, brunch, afternoon tea and dinner. Specializing in seasonal Scottish delights, The Spence is still one of my favorite dining experiences.

Deacon Brodies Tavern

This pub is located on the Royal Mile, a prime location for anyone spending an afternoon in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. I found this pub to be fascinating, due to its namesake being the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel, The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. There are many homages to the author to be found throughout the restaurant and the pub below! While focusing on standard pub food, everything that we sampled was fresh and tasty. It’s also a great place to find a seat next to the window and watch hundreds of people trek their way up and down the Mile.

Oz Bar

I accidentally stumbled across this bar when I showed up too early for dinner at a nearby restaurant. It was one of the happiest accidents I have had in Edinburgh. Located off a quiet side street in Edinburgh’s Old Town, the Oz Bar is a hang-out for locals and tourists alike. Specializing in Australian beers, wines and stereotypes (including kangaroo decorations!), the staff was quick and kind and it was a reasonably priced bar for the area. Don’t let it’s humble exterior fool you! This was a great place to find friendly faces and good drinks!

The Jolly Judge

A short, two-minute walk from Edinburgh Castle and down one of the historic closes, The Jolly Judge is a cozy hideaway from the Royal Mile. Frequented by lawyers from the nearby courthouse, The Jolly Judge specializes in having a large and diverse selection of whiskys (scotch!). If you can find a corner table, stay a while and ask the bartender to share his favorite whiskeys with you. I found a personal favorite (a Jura 12 year old, yum!) while I was there, and I promise you won’t be disappointed with the drinks or the atmosphere!

The Duck and Waffle

If you’re looking for a delightful place to grab breakfast or brunch, then The Duck and Waffle is it! While it is part of a global chain, they take great care to make the experience unique and delicious! The one in Edinburgh is located within the St. James Quarter, which is a great shopping center located within sight of beautiful Calton Hill. While you can, of course, order their famous Duck and Waffle breakfast, I personally recommend the Duck Eggs Benedict. It was so good!

Merchants Restaurant

After finding the Oz Bar, I joined my friends for a fabulous dinner at Merchants Restaurant. Coincidentally, on Merchants Street, this establishment had a cozy atmosphere and menu that was equally comforting. Scottish Sirloin Medallions to the Risotto with Bleu Cheese to the Roasted Chicken, every bite was delectable! Also! If you’re looking for a fun and appetizing way to try haggis, Scotland’s most famous dish, Merchants served Haggis Spring Rolls, and they were amazing!

Uno Mas

I almost gave this place a miss, but, after some cajoling from a friend, a group of us hit up Uno Mas on our last night in Edinburgh in April 2024. I’m so glad we went! The music-themed bar was cozy, and we loved the song-themed cocktails. (I had the Blue Da Ba Dee cocktail, which tells you that a millennial like me was in charge of the menu!) They do not serve food, but they do have live music on some nights.