Best Itinerary: 2 Days in Valencia

Rent a bicycle for the day and get an early start, which for Spanish standards, is an extremely forgiving 10am and something I appreciate as a night owl. Valencia has tons of well-marked bike lanes and is relatively safe for cyclists, with biking being a preferred mode of transport among tourists. Most hotels have bicycles for rent for about €10 per day, and if yours doesn’t, visit one of the many bike shops such as The Easy Way or use Valenbisi, the city’s bike sharing system, which has over 275 stations (first 30 minutes are free).

Stop by specialty coffee shop TALLAT for your caffeine fix and arrive at the beach by 10:30am to secure lounge chairs and the coveted beach umbrella (arrive earlier in peak season or book the day before). Playa del Cabanyal, also known as Playa de las Arenas, is the busiest stretch of beach, being the closest to the harbor. Set up here or continue a little further north and you’ll find Playa de la Malvarrosa, another popular spot that maintains a relaxed vibe despite the crowds in summertime. Both beaches are family-friendly with calm and shallow waters that are perfect for sunbathing.

After your first dose of vitamin D, hop on your bicycles and head to lunch at Alquería del Pou, a rustic and traditional Valencian restaurant situated in a white-washed farmhouse among the huertas (advance reservations required, closed on Sundays). Although no one will bat an eyelash if you order sangria in Spain, the truth is this summer classic is not very popular among Spaniards. I recommend opting for the local beverage of choice, tinto de verano, which literally means summer red wine. A blend of red wine and lemon soda, tinto de verano is, in my view, the fastest way to cool down unless you prefer a caña, a small glass of light beer that is usually a little smaller than a half pint.

But the real reason you’ve come is for the paella, a rice dish named after the flat round pan with two handles in which it is cooked, which takes a minimum of 25 minutes to prepare. Order the paella valenciana, which is traditionally made with chicken, rabbit and lima beans, but here it may also contain caracoles (snails) and don’t forget to enjoy the crispy rice layer that forms at the bottom of the pan, known as socarrat. Paella is a typical lunch dish, so best to avoid eating it at night – although often on the dinner menu at touristy establishments, it is often not made fresh.

The next stop is the City of Arts and Sciences, where you can marvel at the work of Valencian architect Santiaga Calatrava that has propelled Valencia into a globally-recognized design city. The complex comprises numerous buildings but don’t miss the Hemisfèric (a digital 3D cinema), Science Museum, Oceanogràfic (aquarium), Palau de les Arts (performing arts center) and Umbracle (4-acre garden). Enjoy the architecture from the greenspace surrounding them or pop into one of the world-class museums to beat the afternoon heat.

Finish off Day 1 by dining at Anyora in the Canyamelar neighborhood, a seaside enclave formerly populated by fishermen. With over 40 wines by the glass, Anyora is an excellent choice and all the more convivial if you can make it until at least 9pm to eat with the locals. Try the tomato steak with mango and avocado, the lamb and some classics like gildas, the first known tapa (or pintxo because it is Basque). Named after Rita Hayworth from her title role, a gilda consists of an olive, salted anchovy and chili peppers on a skewer. It is a perfectly salty and acidic combination with a touch of spice that will wake up your taste buds. Follow with a selection of house-made sausages, boquerones (fried sardines) and one of the best patatas bravas I’ve ever had.

Valencia is a city rich in history and you’ll find evidence of its Roman roots, which date to 138 B.C.E., at Plaza de la Reina. From this square lined by beautiful orange trees, you can take in the majesty of the Valencia Cathedral. If you choose to pay the entrance fee to visit the cathedral, you can catch a glimpse of the chalice claimed to be the Holy Grail that has been in Valencia since the 15th century. Attached to the cathedral is the gothic-style El Miguelete Tower. The 207 daunting steps are worth the climb – it goes faster than you think, and those who persist will be welcomed with a panoramic view of the city.

Around the corner from the cathedral is the Plaza de la Virgen, which served as Valencia’s main square from Roman times through the early 20th century. Two other emblematic buildings are visible from this plaza - the Basilica of the Virgen de los Desamparados and the Palace of the Generalitat. From here, follow the winding streets of the ciutat vella and see where they take you.

After wandering through Valencia’s enchanting arch and alleyways, I recommend visiting the Colón Market, a beautiful historic building chock-full of shops, cafés, bars and restaurants. It’s a great place to stop for lunch and you’ll find international food options such as Ma Khin Café if you are seeking some variety. Alternatively, if you haven’t had your fill of paella, head to La Riuá, a traditional spot with unique decor and barely an inch of free wall space or El Poblet, a two Michelin star lunch, which I consider a responsible choice.

Next, visit the UNESCO world heritage site Lonja de la Seda (the silk exchange) and when you’re ready for an afternoon treat, pick between horchata for a few euros at famed spot Orxateria Santa Catalina order with fartons, a spongy pastry that you dip inside) and a refreshing gelato from Gelateria La Romana, but save room for an afternoon cocktail. At Café Madrid, cool down in their air conditioned salon with an agua de Valencia, a cocktail not unlike a mimosa that features Valencian oranges but is more powerful (cava, vodka and gin!). Café Madrid’s predecessor is said to be the original purveyor of the drink and although under new management, they happily honor their heritage. If in good company and up to the task, order a jarra (jug).

If souvenir shopping is on your agenda, try Plaza Redonda for its traditional craft shops. Even if nothing strikes your fancy, the design of this plaza is stunning. If you walk down one of the streets that converge into the plaza accidentally as I did, you will feel like you’ve stumbled across a peculiar and magical place.

Finally, end your trip to Valencia with a casual meal at Restaurant Bocatin with its reliably delicious fare and then drinks at Tasca Angel or indulge in a fine dining experience at Ricard Camarena Restaurant, located in the Bombas Gens Centre d’Art. Depending on the season, you may be able to take a peek at some of the contemporary art exhibits on display before dinner since the center is free to the public and open late through mid-September. Share stories and some of Spain’s underrated and seriously drinkable wines over dinner and start dreaming of the next time you can pay a visit to this incredible region.