Curator’s statement
Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis in Paris' 10th arrondissement is a lively and exciting street full of Parisians doing their shopping at food retailers and savoring the diverse cuisines offered by the many restaurants and cafés along the street. Yet the side streets and alleys are very charming, giving a welcoming break from the bustling scene.
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Things to do in Paris
Start your exploration at the beautiful triumphal arch Porte Saint-Denis and head north. It is one of the remaining gates of the city wall that used to surround Paris and was commissioned by Louis XIV. Another remaining one - Porte Saint-Martin — is two blocks East.
Don’t hesitate to go in the many “passages" (arcades) branching from the main stretch. Those car-free alleys are very charming, some with little shops others mostly residential. The covered ones were built in the 19th century to allow Parisians to go shopping without getting wet when it rained.
Passage de l’industrie (42 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis) dates from 1827.
Passage Brady (46 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), built in 1828, now hosts Indian, Pakistani and Bengali shops and restaurants.
Private passage (61 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), but you can still go through the blue double doors and step inside this very quiet alley.
Two doors down is Taka & Vermo Fromagerie, a modern cheese shop. Go into sample some of their amazing French cheese.
Across the street is Julhès Paris (56 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), a family-owned specialty food shops: boulangerie, patisserie and deli.
Cour des Petites Ecuries, technically not a “passage” but still a cute cobble-stoned street lined up with cafés.
Passage du Désir (84 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis). Although gated, it is open to the public. The buildings dates back to the 18th and 19th centuries.
After eight blocks (7 rue Jarry), is Nart bookstore and publisher with books in English tucked in a small side street.
Admire the beautiful facade at 18 rue de Paradis. It was built in 1889 as a showroom for the Faiencerie de Choisy-le-Roi Boulenger, a famous factory making tin-glazed pottery, tiles and mosaics. They were at one point the official supplier of the famous white tiles in the Paris Metro. The building is now rented to a business school. Make sure to go inside (if the door is open) to admire the beautiful tiled-work and mosaics.
Places to eat & drink in Paris
Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis offers a great choice of excellent restaurants with cuisine from all over the world, mostly frequented by locals. From the Porte du Faubourg Saint Denis, going north:
Sürpriz (28 boulevard St Denis), one of the best kebab shops in Paris, very popular.
Bouillon Julien (16 rue du Faubourg St Denis), a beautiful art-nouveau restaurant which opened in 1906. Very affordable traditional French dishes. A great place to try escargots.
Pouliche (11 rue d’Enghien), friendly upscale restaurant owned by female chef Amandine Chaignot. Single daily set menu (vegetarian on Wednesdays).
Le Syndicat (51 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), hidden speakeasy. Push the nondescript door at the poster-covered storefront. One of the best cocktail bars in Paris.
Petit Bao (69 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), last venue of the Bao Family, very popular Chinese restaurants in Paris.
Coutume (56 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), new coffeeshop.
Ngoun Heng (1 rue des petites Ecuries), little window for yummy Vietnamese to-go.
Le Grand Café d’Athènes (74 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis) nice upscale Greek bistro.
5 pailles (79 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), great coffeeshop with brunch items.
Couscous House (83 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), modern restaurant for traditional Moroccan couscous and tajines.
Fellows (84 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis), very popular pasta restaurant, all freshly made in-house. Booking recommended, although there are tables downstairs for walk-ins.
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This guide is a part of our ongoing series on travel to Paris. For more travel tips, check out Fora Advisor Christina Gales's guide, Three Days in Paris - Getting the Most Out of a Short Parisian Adventure.