Curator’s statement
Forget the crowded streets of Paris or the glitzy beaches of the Riviera. Ardèche is where you go to discover the France of yesteryear, a France that many thought was lost to progress. This hidden gem in the heart of the country offers a tapestry of experiences that will make you fall in love with France all over again, from lavender fields to prehistoric sites, medieval ruins and outdoor adventure. Note: Similar to Provence, this area will require a car, if you wish to visit the small, hillside towns.
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Where to stay in Ardèche
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Things to do in Ardèche
Drive the area & stop in some of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France
Vallon-Pont-d'Arc
Make the charming, hilltop village of Vallon-Pont-d'Arc your home base. It's known for its proximity to natural wonders, most notably the iconic Pont d’Arc — a breathtaking stone archway carved by the Ardèche River. It is a great gateway to outdoor adventures, including kayaking, hiking and caving, making it perfect for families and teens. Beyond nature, the town has a quaint, relaxed atmosphere with cobbled streets, inviting cafes along with local markets and shops brimming with regional delicacies.
Drop in at Le Terroir Ardéchois
A treasure trove of local delicacies. The staff here are walking encyclopedias of Ardèche flavors. Pro tip: Ask for their truffle-infused cheese — it’s not on display, but it’s worth every euro.
Balazuc, Labeaume & Vogüé
Together, Balazuc, Labeaume, and Vogüé form a trio of les plus beaux villages in Ardèche — these villages offer an authentic slice of France that feels worlds away from the bustling city.
Balazuc
Perched dramatically on a limestone cliff, Balazuc is a medieval village that offers panoramic views over the Ardèche River. This gem is celebrated for its beautifully preserved architecture and winding, cobbled streets that invite travelers to step back in time. Visitors can meander through narrow alleys lined with stone houses that evoke the village’s centuries-old past, discovering hidden courtyards, artisan shops and ancient arches along the way.
Why go: Balazuc offers a quintessential taste of rural France, with its serene atmosphere, stunning vistas and a rich history that dates back to the Roman Empire. Families with teens or children will enjoy exploring the small historical pathways, crossing the old bridge or swimming in the river below — perfect for a refreshing summer break. It will make your Instagram followers green with envy.
Not to miss: The 11th-century Church of Sainte-Madeleine, a standout Romanesque architectural feature and the Balazuc Museum, which provides a fascinating insight into local history and culture.
Labeaume
Like Balazuc, Labeaume seems to have sprung naturally from the rocky landscape it inhabits. Nestled on the banks of the La Beaume River, this village offers a labyrinth of narrow alleys, stone houses and lush vegetation that blends effortlessly into the cliffs. A walk through Labeaume feels like a retreat into nature, with shaded paths leading to peaceful swimming spots along the river.
Why go: Labeaume’s charm lies in its balance between natural beauty and historical depth. It’s the perfect destination for those looking to relax, explore and enjoy the serenity of an unspoiled Ardèche village. The village square is shaded by century-old plane trees, making it a perfect spot to enjoy a slow afternoon.
Must do: Swim or picnic by the river, a favorite for families, or explore the Dolmens of Labeaume, ancient stone tombs scattered around the area.
Vogüé
Often hailed as a postcard-perfect village, Vogüé sits along the Ardèche River with its majestic Château de Vogüé overlooking the village. Its picturesque streets, arched passageways and Renaissance facades make it one of the most romantic settings in the Ardèche.
Why go: For travelers who appreciate history and art, Vogüé is a must-visit. The Château de Vogüé is a beautifully preserved structure, offering a glimpse into the region’s noble past. It hosts art exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year, making it an excellent stop for lovers of both history and contemporary art.
Not to miss: The riverside paths where families can enjoy a scenic walk, skipping stones in the river or simply soaking in the idyllic views, and kayaking down the river offers a leisurely way to experience Vogüé’s beauty from the water.
Plan an outdoor adventure kayaking, hiking through a petrified forest, camping or just searching for lavender fields
La Base Nautique du Pont d’Arc
Why go: Kayaking under the famous stone arch is a rite of passage in Ardèche, and on a hot day, will make you so happy you did. Stop under the arch to watch the kids jump off the rocks, bask in the sun and swim in the pools.
Note: Book early in peak season, and don’t forget waterproof sunscreen!
Defilés de Ruoms
This scenic road, carved into limestone cliffs in the 19th century, offers a spectacular panorama of the surrounding landscape. The route features a series of tunnels and impressive arches, winding through a deep gorge along the Ardèche river and the Ligne river. This feat of engineering and natural beauty is a must-see for anyone visiting the Ardèche region.
Visit some of the most historic and jaw dropping sites in France or taste some of the local products, including wine, you will not find at home
Aven d'Orgnac
Why go: This cave is like stepping into Earth’s time capsule — the formations here are older than human civilization and absolutely jaw dropping. Perfect for adults and teens fascinated by geology or history.
Note: There is also a Wine Cellar here, where you can taste local wines aged in the depths of a prehistoric cave. Bring a light jacket and wear shoes with tread. Not for the claustrophobic.
Alba-la-Romaine Archaeological Site
Why go: To walk through the ruins of a Gallo-Roman city and imagine life 2,000 years ago.
Don't miss: The beautifully preserved Roman theater.
Pro tip: Visit during the summer archaeological festival for hands-on history experiences.
Caverne du Pont d'Arc
Why go: To witness the world's oldest known painted cave, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Don't miss: The immersive tour that brings 36,000-year-old art to life.
Note: Book tickets in advance, especially during peak season.
Unique Wine Tasting Experiences
Néovinum - Vignerons Ardéchois
Why go: For an interactive and educational wine experience showcasing Ardèche's diverse terroirs.
Don't miss: The sensory tasting workshop where you'll learn to identify different wine aromas.
Pro tip: Ask about their "Vine Adoption" program for a unique souvenir.
Domaine du Colombier
Why go: To taste organic wines in a picturesque setting with views of lavender fields.
Must-try: Their award-winning Syrah.
Pro tip: Book a picnic basket filled with local products to enjoy in the vineyards.
Day trips
Other towns worth working into your itinerary:
Valaurie
Valaurie is a quaint village that offers a peaceful retreat away from the hustle and bustle of modern life. With no tourists in sight, you can explore at your own pace, interact with friendly locals and enjoy the company of the village cats.
Grignan
Grignan is famous for its lavender fields that bloom under the shadow of a majestic chateau. Visit during the lavender season to witness the fields in full bloom, explore the chateau and enjoy the vibrant local markets.
Aiguèze
A beautiful village with medieval history, perched above the Ardèche River, offering stunning panoramic views.
Salavas
Situated just across the Ardèche River from Vallon-Pont-d'Arc, Salavas is a small, quiet village with roots in prehistory. Its proximity to the Pont d’Arc makes it an ideal base for exploring the region’s natural wonders, with fewer crowds than larger towns. It is a slice of authentic Ardèche village life.
Larnas Lavender Fields
The lavender fields of Larnas offer a sensory delight with their vibrant colors and fragrant blooms — wander, sniff and snap!
Places to eat & drink in Ardèche
Vallon-Pont-d’Arc
ARKADIA Restaurant
Why go: It’s the culinary jewel of Vallon. The chef here works magic with local ingredients.
Must-try: Their lavender-infused crème brûlée is a revelation.
Le Chelsea
Why go: It’s where the locals go for their morning café.
Insider tip: Their pain au chocolat is the best in town, but they sell out by 9 am.
Le Restaurant Bar à Vin Caviste De Châmes
Why go: To sample the best wines of the region in a cozy, unpretentious setting.
Pro tip: Ask the sommelier to surprise you — you won’t be disappointed.
Balazuc
La Fenière
Why go: For a perfect blend of French and Italian cuisines in a rustic-chic setting.
Must-try: Their truffle pasta — it’s worth every calorie.
Le Buron
Why go: For hearty, no-nonsense Ardèchois cuisine that’ll warm your soul.
Insider tip: Their beef stew is the stuff of local legend, but it’s not always on the menu. Ask nicely, and they might whip it up for you.
Labeaume
Explore the Dolmens of Labeaume, ancient stone tombs scattered around the area.
Le Figue Restaurant
Why go: For creative cuisine that pays homage to local ingredients.
Must-try: Anything with figs — they’re the local specialty.
La Rive Gauche Café
Why go: For laid-back vibes and the best people-watching spot in town.
Insider tip: Their iced mint tea is the perfect antidote to a hot Ardèche afternoon.
Vogüé
La Falaise
Why go: For knockout views paired with equally impressive cuisine.
Must-try: Their lamb dishes — the meat comes from a local farm and is melt-in-your-mouth tender.
Au Cabanon des Pizzas
Why go: Sometimes you need a break from haute cuisine, and this place offers delicious simplicity.
Pro tip: Get your pizza to go and enjoy it by the river for a perfect picnic.
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Jody Holman
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This guide is part of our ongoing series on travel to France. Looking for more travel inspiration? Check out my guide, Calistoga: Wine, Dine and Unwind.