4 Nights in the Black Forest: An Active Traveler’s Guide to Freiburg, Germany

Traveling to Freiburg from a major German city like Munich can be a bit tricky, but there is a bus that can get you there in just under five hours. (Train connections are also available.) You’ll likely arrive in the afternoon or early evening. Take some time to stroll the city and take in sites like Freiburg Münster, an ancient cathedral completed in the early 1300s. It was one of the few buildings in Freiburg to survive the Operation Tigerfish bombings of 1944 during World War II.

As you wander the streets of the Alstadt (old city), you’ll notice the thin canals (Bächle) on either side filled with water from the Dreisam river. These were historically used for irrigation and fire-fighting. They could be dammed off to restrict water flow and more easily access a water supply in the event of an emergency. Today, you’ll see locals using them to cool their wine -- and their feet. Round off your first night in Freiburg with dinner at SKAJO, where you can look out over the cityscape from its rooftop perch.

Start the day with breakfast at Café Jolie, where you can enjoy an exquisite Belgian waffle with french vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce, or a good old slice of avocado toast. Then walk over to the Schwabentor (the old city entrance) and embark on the Schlossberg Circular Trail leading to a 115-foot-tall observation tower offering stunning 360-degree views of Freiburg. Hike down from there to have lunch at Kastaniengarten, a traditional German beer garden with local brews served vom fass (from the barrel) and lovely views of the cathedral and the Alstadt.

After hiking back down to Freiburg, be sure to stop by the Münstermarkt (farmer’s market), open Monday through Saturday, 7:30 am to 1:30 pm. Enjoy a drink at one of the local outdoor watering holes, then have dinner at Mahatma Gandhi for a change of culinary pace in the form of authentic Indian food.

It’s worth waking up early today to grab coffee and pastries on the way to the train station. Then you’ll embark on the long but rewarding journey to Triberg, a small town in the depths of the Black Forest famous for its massive waterfalls and its authentic, master-crafted cuckoo clocks. A train to Offenburg, followed by a train to Triberg Bahnhof, and finally a bus to the Triberg Marktplatz will get you to the center of this charming village by late morning. Head straight for the Wasserfälle and walk up the well-marked paths to take in the multiple levels of falls.

When you’ve worked up an appetite, follow the signs to Restaurant Bergseestüble, a hidden lakeside eatery just on the edge of town. After a leisurely lunch, walk down to Oli’s Schnitzstube, an authentic cuckoo clock store and workshop. You may get to see Oli himself carving his signature designs into high-quality, locally sourced wood. The folks at Oli’s will tell you everything about differentiating between a poor-quality, mass-produced clock and a master-crafted authentic one straight from the Black Forest.

If you decide to purchase a cuckoo clock (prices for quality clocks can range from €350 to as high as €6,000), they’ll make arrangements to ship it home to you safely. Back in Freiburg, enjoy dinner near the Schwabentor at La Cicogna, an Italian restaurant with exceptional service.

Set out for an incredible day of hiking in the Black Forest! Take a train from Freiburg to Kirchzarten, then catch the 7216 bus to Sankt Märgen Post. (Pro tip: many hotels in Freiburg will give you an RVF ticket that can be used for regional trains and busses across the Southern Black Forest.) Upon arriving in Sankt Märgen, stock up on protein and snacks (and maybe a couple of beers) at the local landmarkt to prepare for the hike to Sankt Peter — it’s about five miles and takes around two hours. When you’re ready, embark on the hike starting just outside of town and, first, follow the signs to Sankt Peter Höhenweg as opposed to just Sankt Peter. Enjoy the scenery of the inner Black Forest. When hunger strikes, choose a picnic bench along the way to munch on the goodies you picked up in Sankt Märgen and take in breathtaking views of the valley with both villages visible in the distance.

Continue hiking. Follow the trail route signs until you reach Sankt Peter, where you can visit an ancient abbey of the same name. Catch the bus from the Zähringer Eck stop back to Kirchzarten and then the train to Freiburg. For dinner, make your way to Gasthaus Zum Roten-Bären, where you can happily end the day by indulging in some exceptionally well-prepared German cuisine in a historic setting to reward your hiking efforts!