Curator’s statement
Salem, Massachusetts is well known for the witch trials of 1692, as well as its month-long Halloween celebration. However, there is so much more to this small city just outside of Boston. Salem has a world-class museum, excellent restaurants and important maritime and literary history. This guide is for people visiting Salem in spring, summer and fall. If you are visiting during Halloween, check the Haunted Happening website and book all your activities early. If you are visiting in winter you should check ahead to make sure attractions are open.
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Day 1: Arrive in Salem
Lunch
After you check in to your hotel head toward the downtown harbor area for some lunch, I recommend Mercy Tavern, a small and popular gastropub with delicious food. You could also stop by Pickering Wharf, where you will find some great restaurant choices. Finz has a large waterfront patio with fresh seafood and plenty of other choices, Sea Level has oysters, seafood and more as well as a view of the harbor and Longboards is more casual, with excellent food as well as a delicious lobster flatbread.
Salem History
After lunch head to the House of the Seven Gables. Author Nathaniel Hawthorne, born in Salem, based his novel of the same name on this home built in 1668. You can take a tour (book in advance), which includes a pass to the beautiful grounds.
Be sure to check out Ye Olde Pepper Candy Companie across the street from the House of the Seven Gables. This candy shop has been in business since 1806 and is the country’s oldest continually operating candy company. One of the first products sold was the Gibraltar, which is also the oldest continually sold candy in the US. This sugar candy was originally made by Mary Spencer, who arrived in Salem after a shipwreck in the early 1800’s. The Gibraltars are okay, but the chocolate at this shop is better.
Head back toward the harbor and stop by the Custom House to learn more about Salem’s maritime past. Nathaniel Hawthorne worked in this custom house for three years and it is said to have inspired The Scarlet Letter.
Next up is the Friendship, which is a replica of a merchant ship from the late 1700’s. Make sure to take a walk along the path toward the Derby Lighthouse for a beautiful view of the harbor.
Coffee, Beer and Snacks
If you are looking to sit back and relax after shopping, check out Gulu-Gulu for coffee, craft beer and snacks.
Dinner
For dinner, I recommend Ledger Restaurant, which is located inside an old bank. Everything here is delicious, but I always get a popover to go with my meal. Ledger is also a good choice for brunch. If you would like something casual, try Bambolina for some Neapolitan pizza.
Drinks
All Souls Lounge is a cozy spot for some cocktails.
Day 2: History of the Salem Witch Trials
Breakfast
Salem’s Retreat is a good place for breakfast (parking in the back of the restaurant). Crave or the Wolf Next Door are also great choices with some hearty breakfast sandwiches and are within walking distance from downtown.
The Witch Trial Museum
Today you will learn more about the Salem Witch Trials. It’s a difficult conversation, but “witches” and Salem go hand in hand. Our local tourist economy has greatly benefited from anything witch-related, our high school mascot is a witch and you will even see a witch on a broomstick on the side of police cars.
While it’s obviously a horrific piece of history in Salem, I try to separate the witch trials from Halloween. After all, the trials had nothing to do with any witchcraft. Modern Salem has a good-sized Wiccan community and it has absolutely nothing to do with casting evil spells.
You can learn more about the witch trials by visiting the Witch Trials Museum. While this museum can be a little old school, with the story being told with wax figures, I still think it’s an excellent way to learn more about what happened in Salem.
Salem Common
After the museum, cross the street to see Salem Common. Established in the 1600’s, this area was once used for grazing animals and has been recognized as the birthplace of the National Guard. This is also a great area to wander around and see some of the old homes of Salem. Many of the larger homes were once owned by ship captains.
Lunch
Lunch options nearby are Gulu-Gulu, Flying Saucer Pizza nd Life Alive (vegetarian). For dessert, be sure to check out Caramel French Patisserie, which has delicious macarons or pastries.
The Witch House & Ropes Mansion
Next head over to the Witch House, located at the corner of Essex and Summer streets. This house was once owned by Judge Jonathan Corwin, who was a judge during the witch trials and is one of the last remaining structures associated with the witch trials.
Just down the street, you will find the Ropes Mansion, which dates back to the early 1700’s. Many will know it as Alison’s House from the movie Hocus Pocus.
Spend the rest of the day wandering the shops downtown. Some favorite gift shops are Moody’s, Witch City Wicks and Roost & Company.
Modern Millie is a great vintage clothing store. Emporium 32, Coven, Hive and Forge and Die with Your Boots On have a collection of eclectic and dark accessories and clothing.
If you are interested in the local Wiccan community, head to Pyramid Books, Haus Witch and Crow Haven. These are just some of the many shops and you can walk along Essex Street and Pickering Wharf for many more choices.
Dinner
For a nice dinner out I recommend Settler, which is a cozy restaurant with fresh pasta, seafood and more. If you would like something more casual, the Hotel Salem has a rooftop bar with tacos, burrito bowls and nachos. This is also a great spot to be at sunset.
After dinner go on a ghost tour with Black Cat Salem to learn about some of the Salem events that have inspired Edgar Allen Poe and other authors.
Day 3: Salem Art & Museums
Breakfast
Start off your day with breakfast at The Ugly Mug. This popular diner is named after its collection of odd mugs originally collected from the local community.
Museums and Memorial
Walk off the delicious food with a stroll down the pedestrian part of Essex Street toward the Peabody Essex Museum (PEM).
You would need the full day (or more) to see everything in the PEM. If you only have a few hours I recommend the exhibits which include a focus on the history of Salem, Asian art and even a 200+ year-old house brought here from China. There is also a self-guided tour both inside and outside the museum focusing on the witch trials.
After the museum head to the Witch Trials Memorial next to the Charter Street Cemetery (just behind the museum). This memorial lists the names and details of the victims of the witch trials. You may notice that many of the victims' surnames are still common in Salem and nearby towns.
Lunch
For lunch, you can grab some tacos at Spitfire Tacos (these are delicious, but not your traditional taco).
Punto Urban Art Museum
Next head to the Punto Urban Art Museum for a taste of modern-day Salem. This is an outdoor art museum where artists transformed the exterior of the neighborhood buildings with murals.
Harbor and Sunset Cruise
This afternoon you could take a sunset sail on the Schooner Fame. This schooner is a replica of the first American privateer schooner to set sail during the War of 1812. Fame sails around Salem Harbor and sets off their cannon at sunset.
Dinner
Follow up your sail with dinner at The Adriatic, which has some outdoor seating and upscale Mediterranean cuisine.
After-Dinner Drinks
If you are looking for drinks after dinner I recommend going to one of Salem’s tasting rooms. Deacon Giles Distillery has fantastic cocktails (very short drive or longish walk), Far From the Tree Cider has tasting flights and an outdoor patio and Notch Brewery has beer tasting as well as an outdoor patio. Far From the Tree and Notch are both are about a 10-minute walk from The Adriatic. Make sure to check the hours, as some of these may close early depending on the season.
Need to know
This itinerary gives you some of the top things to do in Salem for a long weekend. There are so many more attractions, shops and restaurants that I couldn’t include. We also have a ferry and train that go straight to Boston, and if you are here in the summer, I recommend a beach day at Good Harbor or Wingersheek in Gloucester (check the parking situation in advance). Rockport, Marblehead and Beverly are also picturesque towns. Salem Willows is fun and has an old arcade, kids rides, great fried clams, popcorn and ice cream.
Travel Advisor
Nicole Freedman
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This itinerary is part of our ongoing series on travel to Massachusetts.