Cycladic Charm: Your Guide to Three Nights in Naxos

Step off the ferry and luxuriate in the warm Naxos breeze on your skin. But don’t luxuriate too long... you have so much to see and do!

Where to next and how to get there? There are many ways of traveling from the ferry landing to your first destination. At the landing, you’ll find numerous taxis. If you’d prefer, it’s also simple to coordinate a driver through one of my favorite international transport applications, Welcome Pickups. However, because Naxos is quite a large island, I think the best way of getting from the landing to your hotel – and all the destinations on the island for that matter – is a rental car. Companies like Motoland can even arrange to have a car waiting for you at the ferry landing or in your hotel parking lot.

Once in your vehicle of choice, make your way to Plaka Beach, the longest stretch of white sand beach in all of the Cyclades. Here you’ll check into the subtle, but stunning, Ammothines Cycladic Suites. Although each of the recommended accommodations on this list is lovely, I cannot recommend this particular property highly enough. This boutique hotel features 15 suites of various sizes, all with at least partial views of the most popular beach on the island. The hotel was opened by a local family in 2022 after several years spent artfully crafting the sinks, bedside tables, lighting fixtures and desks from Naxian marble and other local products. If the minimalist cream and beige décor isn’t enough to awe you, welcome drinks served over their oversized, sun-drenched pool will.

Drop off your bags and head to the hotel’s private beachfront cabanas, where you’ll lunch on Greek burgers, Naxian potatoes, and thirst-quenching mint lemonade. Spend several hours taking in the views, strolling the shore or dipping in the turquoise waters. As the sun begins to set over the island, you’ll return to Hora to “Munch Around Naxos Town” with Philema Food Tours. This tour will lead you through the Venetian Castle, the Temple of Apollo, and the streets of the city, all while sampling Naxian recipes, spirits and desserts. If, somehow, you’re still craving a snack or a drink after the tour, Oinochoros Wine Bar is worth a visit!

Rise early for a day full of adventure and exploring. Meet the morning with breakfast at Platanos in the village of Filoti. As with everywhere in Greece, their Greek yogurt with fruit and honey is heavenly!

Feeling fueled? Drive several kilometers to the Aghia Marina trailhead of Mount Zas, and park your car along the side of the road. From here, you’ll follow the spray-painted red trail markers and begin your summit to the tallest peak in the Cyclades. The trail is moderately difficult, approximately 5 kilometers (3 miles), and takes about 2-3 hours to complete. Once at the summit, you’ll be treated to incredible, 360-degree views stretching all the way to nearby Ios and Paros. On your way there, you may also make friends with the local rock-climbing experts – the mountain goats – who will alert you of their arrival with bells on.

With your hike behind you, you’ll be more than deserving of a cold beer and a traditional lunch. Continue your tour of the mountain villages with a stop in Apiranthos, where you’ll feast at local taverns like Lefteris or Amorginos. They’re well-known for their “BBQ”, and their grilled meats and cheeses are not to be missed. While digesting, wander the streets of the village, popping into shops like To Yperoon, where George and Maria will treat you to their homemade liqueur.

The afternoon may be passing, but you still have 2 more stops on your village tour! On your way back down the mountainside, Halki will be waiting to welcome you to Dolce Vita for a slice of bananoffee pie and the nearby Vallindras Kitron Distillery for a brief tour and sampling of the island’s most beloved, citrus-based spirit. Once you’ve reached the base of the mountains, you’ll stumble upon the tiny village of Damalas. Damalas is home to the island’s oldest olive mill and, more importantly, Limpertas Manolis Pottery. Manolis comes from a long line of potters, and he demonstrates his art to visitors throughout the day. His shop sells shelves and shelves of his perfect pottery, and they’ll happily ship anything that doesn’t safely fit in your suitcase!

Note: If the hike or the idea of navigating the villages on your own is overwhelming, consider coordinating a full-day villages tour with a Hospitality Stories guide instead.

After freshening up in the hotel, dinner will be awaiting you at To Elliniko. A laid-back, courtyard restaurant built around ancient olive trees. You cannot leave Naxos without trying their rosti, a pork roast simmered in tomatoes, wine, garlic, and herbs. Fun fact, the owner of To Elliniko also happens to be the son-in-law of Manolis the potter!

Have you even been to Greece if you haven’t taken a cooking class with a Greek grandmother? The answer is definitely no, so we’ll remedy that today! Join a long line of prominent guests, including Anthony Bourdain, who have spent an afternoon cooking with Mrs. Juliana of Naxian Experiences. Naxian Experiences will collect you from your hotel at 9:30AM and transport you to her Flerio-based, family farm where you will find lush gardens and unrivaled views of the marble quarries. The farm is centuries old and has no electricity, meaning you’ll be cooking over a woodfire. While Mrs. Juliana speaks very little English, you’ll have no problem connecting over your shared passion for food as she guides you through 4 distinct recipes (ours were stuffed vegetables, zucchini fritters, Naxian potatoes, fried sweet breads and a rosemary lamb roast – my mouth waters just thinking about them!). Along the way, you’ll be offered plentiful wine from her family’s own estate.

You’ll return to the seaside in the early afternoon, after which you’ll have time to visit another of Naxos’ most prized beaches, Agios Prokopios. Enjoy a cocktail and local music at Art Café as you look out on to the ocean, daydreaming about purchasing your own Naxian villa.

If you’d prefer to stay near Agios Prokopios for dinner, check out Giannouli’s Tavern. The waits may be long, but there’s a reason this family-run restaurant is perennially popular. Otherwise, return to Hora for the island’s freshest seafood at Apanemi, where you’ll gaze out on the Temple of Apollo while enjoying avocado salad and fresh fish prepared to your liking.

If you still have energy to spare after dinner, there’s time for one more typical Naxian experience: the open-air cinema. Cine Naxos has a 9:00PM showing throughout the season and serves up Greek wines, beers and snacks throughout. When we were in town last May, they were playing the live-action Little Mermaid; just imagine the adorableness of small Greek children enthusiastically singing along to “Under the Sea”!

Take advantage of your final slumber in Naxos, and sleep in! Awake mid-morning for a leisurely pool-side breakfast before returning to Hora, where you’ll leave your rental car in the landing parking lot and board the mid-day ferry to your next island adventure.