Capri: How to Do It Right

Avoid the day trippers

Capri is relatively small, and its pedestrian streets are narrow (there are no cars on the Capri side of Capri). Unfortunately for them and for those staying on the island, many, many people visit the island just for the day. Consequently, from mid-morning to mid-afternoon, the place can be overrun, making virtually anything you’d want to do unpleasant. So, sightsee in the mornings, relax by a pool or seaside in the afternoons, then re-emerge for some shopping and/or a drink before dinner.

Stay out of the heat

Visit in May or June, when the days are longer, or in September. The temperatures will be lovely, and the island will be less busy – although still busy enough! Like in many places, July and August are extremely busy months on the island, and it can get uncomfortably hot and humid.

La Fontelina

In my view, Fontelina is the best beach club in the world, and I’ve been to enough to know. The setting, at the foot of Capri’s iconic rocks, the Faraglioni, is beautiful, dramatic and virtually unbeatable. You must book well in advance (months) – you should have your hotel do that, as they’ll have sway. And request a “good rock” – the best spots for sun beds and umbrellas are on the rocks that jut out into the sea. They are coveted, so they can be tough to get, but try – the better hotels will be better able to access them for you. And lunch here is a must (see below)! Accessible on foot via the lovely Via Tragara, then many stairs, or by Fontelina’s own boat to and from Marina Piccola.

Villa Lysis

Ah, and here we touch on scandal! This villa, perched cliffside, is open to the public and is one of my favorite places in Capri, namely for its views and history as well as the walk there. You can read a bit about the history (and scandal) in the link, but there’s also a wonderful bookshop and publisher on the island, La Conchiglia (see "Shopping" below) – which publishes and sells several distinctive books in English – where you can learn more.

Monte Solaro

The highest peak on the island, it can be reached by chairlift (in 12 minutes) or on foot (in 1-1.5 hours) from Anacapri. In good weather, the views are spectacular. The island of Capri is essentially divided in two by Monte Solaro, Capri and Anacapri. Anacapri can be reached by bus or taxi – vehicles are allowed on the Anacapri side of the island. And for those really seeking a challenge, you can also reach the peak via a footpath from Capri, Il Passetiello. It will take 2-3 hours to reach the summit, and guides are advised. I’ve done it, and it’s not easy!

Sentiero dei Fortini

A beautiful coastal path of three hours in length, the Path of the Forts will take you past three blockhouses built by the British in the early 1800s. You start at the Blue Grotto and end at Punta Carena, with its lighthouse and a very good beach club, Lido del Faro, known, in part, for its sunset views.

Shopping

While the global luxury outposts can’t be missed, it’s the local shops that I find more interesting, such as Russo Uomo, for menswear, just opposite the Hotel Quisisana, and the wonderful bookstore previously mentioned, La Conchiglia, to name but a few. Capri is famous for its sandals, and you will find several manufacturers and sellers here, Da Costanzo perhaps being one of the best. There’s also the women’s store on the Piazzetta, La Parisienne, founded in 1906 and where Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis had her capri pants made in the ‘60s, still there and still selling them.

Villa San Michele

In Anacapri, the Swede Axel Munthe’s wonderful villa built in the early 1900s and its beautiful private park are worth a visit.

Non-Roman Catholic Cemetery

If, like me, you have an interest in the modern history of Capri, you’ll find this cemetery of interest. Here lies the writer Norman Douglas, the actress and singer Gracie Fields, and Baron Jacques d'Adelsward-Fersen, the owner of Villa Lysis, amongst others.

Gardens of Augustus and Via Krupp

Beautiful gardens with terrific views at the top of Via Krupp, a steep path with numerous hairpin curves down to Marina Piccola. Now closed, Via Krupp was commissioned by the German industrialist Friedrich Alfred Krupp in 1900, and if you want to read about another scandal associated with Capri, you can look him up!

Le Grottelle

With unbeatable views toward the Amalfi Coast and good food, Le Grottelle is a lovely outdoor restaurant near the Natural Arch. Request a “front row” table overlooking the sea. Every year, we dine here on our first and last nights on the island.

Pulalli

In the clock tower overlooking the Piazzetta, Pulalli is dependably good with wonderful service. Request a table overlooking the Piazzetta, or if there are just two of you, request the table for two on the small balcony overlooking Ischia and watch the sunset over dinner.

Bar Tiberio

There are four bars on the Piazzetta, but Bar Tiberio is our favorite for its coziness and views of the Piazzetta – it’s great for people-watching! Go there for a drink before and/or after dinner and soak up the atmosphere.

La Fontelina

Lunch at this beach club, described above, is not to be missed! If you’re spending the day at Fontelina, you can just stroll up to the restaurant – don’t worry about putting your shoes on – and soak up the good life!

Lo Sfizio

Eat like a local outside of the town center! Good, affordable food and an unpretentious atmosphere. Request a table outside along the street.

Buca di Bacco

Eat like a local in the center of town! Like Lo Sfizio, simple, good, affordable food and good service in a relaxing environment. Request the table in front of the restaurant’s only window, overlooking Ischia.

Quisi Bar

At the Hotel Quisisana, Quisi Bar is a classic for a drink before or after dinner. Request a table on the terrace, in front of the hotel and overlooking Via Camerelle, and watch the world pass by!

Villa Margherita

Near the center of town, Villa Margherita is an exceptional fine dining option. Request a table on its beautiful terrace.

Da Tonino

At over 30 years of age, Da Tonino is an island classic and an oasis outside of the town center. The reviews speak for themselves!

Da Gelsomina

Outside of the Anacapri town center, Da Gelsomina was recommended to me by local friends years ago, and we’ve been going ever since. Wonderful, simple food, good service and a lovely view.

Buonocore

A wonderful family-run ice cream shop serving fantastic homemade gelatos and sorbets. As you walk from the Piazzetta to the Hotel Quisisana, you'll find it on the left – just look for the line! Don't miss the Fantasia di Capri flavor!